I want to have a muffler shop install a 4" downpipe on my 2005 2.5T FWD Auto tranny. I will be putting in the OBX catback at the same time. Anyone put in a 4" downpipe and been able to fit it? I only have found one downpipe for the FWD 2.5T and it was 3" mandrel for $1500. I can get a 4" press bent for 1/3 that price. Any info about anyone with a 4" DP on the 2.5T FWD would be appreciated!!

I also want to retain a cat - probably a 4" race cat - so that I won't get a CEL and will pass emissions.

Thanks,
Casey

 

4" is really overkill. Have your guys do a 3" mandrel bent DP and mate that to your OBX exhaust.

 

Can't do Mandrel bends. No one within 500 miles has a mandrel bender. Which is why I wanted to go with 4" crush bent.

-Casey

 

Gotcha. I still think 4" is still way more then what you'll ever need. Biggest I'd go is a 3.5" DP.

 

Why not go with The OBX downPipe. I have it and run it Catless(o2 45% spacer = No CEL) Many guys have done this $150 for the Pipe and have a HiFlow cat welded in if you want. Remember that for the Car to get any real gains from the DownPipe or any real Performance part(Exhaust,FMIC,HI-Flow intake) The car needs to be Tuned to utilize it.But the biggest DP i have seen is from Elevate(http://www.elevatecars.com/) 3.5". Most if not all DP are going to run you $895 or better. OBX for me is the way to go.

 

I didn't know OBX made a DP for the 2.5T till today. The pipes all say for 2.4T or R. But I am now told that 2.4T FWD pipes fit the 2.5T FWD so I'm going to order one of those.

So, for the 2.5T FWD I need a 45 O2 sensor spacer or a 90 for the OBX Pipe to fit? Anything else I need to get? I'm going to order the cat back and DP and have them installed at the same time.

Thanks,
Casey

 

I used this http://www.namotorsports.net/detail....d/DD-EX-99-200 Worked perfect. One thing you have a FWD car so when putting in the DP you need to rework the rear O2 sensor. The stock location and new OBX is different. It will fit just something to keep an eye on. http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...&highlight=OBX GL

 

I ordered one. Thanks for letting me know!!

-Casey

 

Got the OBX DP and Cat-back installed today. Muffler shop charged me $130 to install. They had to take out some of the pipes as it was too long (others mentioned this issue as well). I'm very happy with the power and the sound isn't bad. I drove it about 150 miles today, and I get no check engine light (knock on wood). I went with the "no cat" option and the 02 Spacer, so it's straight through exhaust. The exhaust is fairly quiet at low accelleration, but at medium and heavy acceleration it gets ALOT louder. Has a deep sound. Sounds a little ricey, but not horribly so. I did have one of the electrical wires (02 possibly) that they had left touching a heat shield after the install. I smelt it start to melt after about 15 mins of driving and pulled over. It didn't do any major damage and I was easily able to wrap it around a hose and get it away from heat shield.

One issue though: rattles. Under moderate acceleration.. right at 3000 RPM (when it really starts resonating) I get a rattle. I thought it was heat shield from top of engine (right over the DP at back of engine). I tightened that down but it didn't fix the issue. It sounds like it's coming from under the hood instead of further back, but it's hard to pinpoint. I will keep an eye out, but if anyone wants to hazard a guess at where it could be coming from or whats causing it, feel free.

 

I also have the full OBX Exhaust but i have an S60 AWD so used the R version. Now i think i can help with a few things. First the sound. I used the exhaust with No OBX DP at first. Used a stock 05 R downPipe and the sound was far less with stock Down pipe. This can be adressed buy at some point having a HiFlow Cat welded in to DP. Doing this will drop some of the drone of the exhaust. Buy Doing this you will still be far ahead of the game as far as $$ over the $600-$900 other company's charge.. The second thing is rattleing. This is something that had bothered me for the first few months after i installed the Kit. First check the Legs on the DP they are father apart than stock and can come in to contact with heat shield .I think thats where yours is coming from. This is the first place i found. The second was above the DP and Exhaust connection make sure that it does not touch HeatShield t. I had to adjust the exhaust about 1-2 weeks after install and i doubled and tripled check buy running my hand on the top of the pipes front to back while giving it a wiggle just to make sure nothing was hitting.But now after 5 months or so its all settled in and like you its a little loud at WOT nothing crazy. But when the weather gets better ill have a local shop weld in a HiFlow Cat. Hope this helped GL

 

Thank you, I will look into that.

While in Park today I revved the car hard to listen for rattles. I get a slight pop in the upper rpms, almost like a backfire. I haven't had my car tuned yet, but have you experienced this as well? I am assuming either car is running rich or there is a hole in the exhaust somewhere.

Thanks,
Casey

 

Yes i have this also not very offten but i can make it happen. I would not worry about it its just the back pressure.I used exhaust Tape at all seams in the pipes.Just to make sure that no leeks were present. I also used Ultra copper gasket between the DownPipe and exhaust along with the OBX Hard gasket.I had a hard time getting DP and exhaust plange to line up 100% perfect so i did this Just in case.
The Tune will make all the difference in the world. I have and 03 S60 AWD geartronic 2.5t and stock its 208hp. My tuner (Elevate-AutoTech)thinks that i will see 250hp .Thats pretty good but the biggest difference for me is the Torque 236 stock 310 tuned that's the biggest difference with an AWD the car pulls harder in the lower Rpms.But all in all the Tune turned my car in to some thing very different than i bought. Crazy that there is so much there just locked away.