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Alternator/Alternador Identification, Replacement procedure

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Old 12-14-2013, 07:22 PM
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Default Alternator/Alternador Identification, Replacement procedure

Ok, Here it is.
See My Garage for Vehicle Specs.
If needed I'll recap if I get a reply.

My 2001 S60 gave a Low Battery Voltage Message on the panel display. Only 2 weeks after a new Bosch battery was installed.

Checked with Volt Meter and sure enough 11.2v and no variance with engine rev.

Also when engine revs it sounds as if there’s a spin down of some component?

So, is that sound a clutched Alternator or is it some other item (Transmission perhaps)?

I ordered and received my replacement Alternator and it came with the pulley? I was bracing for the task of removing and replacing the pulley as all indications were the Vehicles with Automatic Transmissions all had Clutched Alternators. And I was required to swap the pully.

I need urgent help with positively Identifying my Alternator before I make a costly mistake and install what I believe to be a direct drive alternator.

Thank you,
 
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:00 PM
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The alternator is not clutched. More than likely the alternator is fine. There is an externally mounted regulator on the rear of the alternator that were notorious for going out. I would remove the alternator and have it rebuilt before I would get a rebuilt unit from one of the local auto zone.
 
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:00 PM
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Thank you for a quick response dsharp.... In your opinion, if I take it in to the Rebuilders shop I'm thinking of, Would they only change out the Regulator for a much more reasonable $$.

Also, does the mechanical spin down noise I'm hearing come from the Alt. or what?
 
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:26 AM
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Most shops that I have used will change the bearings and brushes, etc.while they have the alternator apart. It will be less expensive than a new alternator but, probably more than a mass produced rebuild. There's a wide range of quality/price in bearings, rebuild components, etc. I always preferred to have my own parts rebuilt. I can't think of anything on the engine that would spin down. There is a tensioner that could be making noise but everything is belt driven and should be running at the same rpm as the engine, if I understand what you're referring to as "spin down"
 
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Old 12-15-2013, 11:39 AM
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Please keep in mind I am working by myself without an assistant, I it possible to rev the engine from the engine compartment? I.e.; the electronic throttle? Some override ability, so that I can get an ear to it?

Otherwise,
I will need to re assemble the car and start it again prior to getting a Video/Audio of it. I have done this with one of my other vehicles. My mistake for not doing it before. I assumed it was the Alternator Clutch slipping and not engaging due to a failed unit. If it is not the Alternator I may have a bigger problem.
 
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:23 PM
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Take the alternator to a rebuild shop and have them test it. They will spin it with an electric motor and determine if it is putting out the correct voltage and amperage. I don't think you can get to the throttle body to rev up the engine. I'm not sure there's a way to rev up the engine. I've had my engine out of the car and I don't recall unhooking any throttle linkage. If you already have a rebuilt alternator I would keep the original unless the core charge is extremely high.
 
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