Buying s60r tomorrow...and I have some questions
#21
I bought my first Volvo (2006 S60 2.5t) with 45k on it from the LA dealer and have been super happy with it so far. It was a really clean car. I've put 5500 miles on it since July. Wished i could have afforded the extended warranty but didn't have 2k to put down at the time.
My only 'cons' are lousy turning radius and the gas mileage. I always seem to get 20-23 mpg. Otherwise, i've been very happy with the car so far.
My only 'cons' are lousy turning radius and the gas mileage. I always seem to get 20-23 mpg. Otherwise, i've been very happy with the car so far.
#22
#23
steve - your gas mileage is pretty low - is that city mostly? AWD?
Sorry to hear that EXS60 but I have an 02 with over 120k and have had nothing to replace but wear items. Sounds like there may have been something else going on in your situation.
Sorry to hear that EXS60 but I have an 02 with over 120k and have had nothing to replace but wear items. Sounds like there may have been something else going on in your situation.
Last edited by Bender; 11-17-2009 at 03:13 PM.
#25
There was nothing else going on. I bought the car brand new in 04 and always had service/maintenance done on it. I have discussed it with Volvo NA and with many mechanics and other owners. I would say you have a lucky car for that kind of mileage with no issues. In fact the Angle gear wound up being a recall. I have several neighbors who had volvos around this year and all have since gotten rid of them. Ask just about any XC90 2.5T or twin T owner about their transmission. Little bit less on S60's since they are lighter and aren't quite as much wear, but eventually tranny issues will come up on some of them. All you have to do is go to a dealership and talk to them.
#26
HA - ok this guy is a liar.
1) angle gear was NEVER a recall item - some were replaced under warranty but there is no recall
2) transmission issues were around in the 01 and 02 models but were corrected in later models
3) you dont have the same transmission as an XC90 so the comparison doesnt hold.
you claim 6k in repairs but were under warranty until 2007.
You either don't know what you are talking about or got taken for a ride by your dealer.
lastly - if you dont have a volvo, why are you here? you are not giving good advice or helping anyone.
1) angle gear was NEVER a recall item - some were replaced under warranty but there is no recall
2) transmission issues were around in the 01 and 02 models but were corrected in later models
3) you dont have the same transmission as an XC90 so the comparison doesnt hold.
you claim 6k in repairs but were under warranty until 2007.
You either don't know what you are talking about or got taken for a ride by your dealer.
lastly - if you dont have a volvo, why are you here? you are not giving good advice or helping anyone.
#27
I agree totally with Bender, this forum is meant to offer helpful advice to Volvo owners, not to trash the cars online. Volvos are not run of the mill "shopping trolleys". They are imported enthusiasts cars, and therefore are a little more expensive to maintain. If you want cheap to run, buy a Totota Corolla!
#28
Buy an extended warranty on the car, they're a bit pricey, but, it's worth it. Mine has already paid for itself on 2 seperate trips to the mechanic.
#30
There is an old saying which goes something like this (edited somewhat for this public forum): If its got mammary glands or tires, sooner or later it will give you trouble. That being said, everybody at one time deserves to have a car that they really want, not just one they can afford.
If you have a clean Carfax, and you should ask to see the service and repair records (the dealer will have access to these via computer using car's VIN), and it checks out mechanically, go for it. Just be aware that for some reasons beyond my comprehension, Swedish engineers seem to like to design high maintenance cost cars. Lots and lots of inspections called for, and they get worse the more miles you roll on the car.
You're spending real money, so don't let the salesman talk too much during your test drive. Ask him to run it through the car wash and check it for leaks. Check everything electrical (not just the stereo!) such as lights, turn signals, alarm, locks, seats, seat heaters, sunroof, rear defrost, instrument panel lights, flashers, switches (there are a lot of them)
cruise, ABS, geartronic operation if automatic, stereo, CD, windows up & down several times in a row) trunk opener, key fob operation (making sure you get both, they're not cheap); then the body stuff like doors, trunk, hood; then the mechanical stuff (as you haven't moved yet) including cold start, hot start, check for acceleration stumble, brake operation, trans shifting, clutch if applicable, cornering, alignment, wheel balance, instrument operation (which is really electrical, but you should be moving once checking these), all of which should perform "as new". Any problem will cost you $ the minute you drive it away. More accurately, $$$$.
The mechanic should look at the suspension as things like tie rod ends, AWD system, bushings, etc. aren't exactly Jeep Wrangler cast iron sturdy. As well, of course, as engine and trans functions. The bevel gear is a service item on AWD cars per owner's manual (connects rear drive axle to rest of power train). Knowing Volvo, I think they really mean it, too.
Spend an hour here on this Forum. You will be surprised at the weird problems that can develop. See, for instance, the guy asking whether new software is needed if he has to replace the outside side mirror. In Volvoworld, that is entirely possible. Its true if your rearview mirror goes on the fritz. No kidding. Someone else with more knowledge than me noted that rear lighting passes through some sort of computer junction. Whodathunkit? Not exactly a black electrical tape repair job if its bad. Even check ATF is a pain in the you know where for no reason I can understand.
BTW, also ask the dealer whether all software upgrades have been done. You don't want to pay for those, either.
On the other hand, if you're interested in AWD and cheap to keep, I can sell you an '01 CRV Honda with only 175K miles on it! There's no way you'd ever put $15K into repairs, I guarantee it. (That's what I mean about a car you want, not just one you can afford).
One final note. You are buying a specialty car that lacks the wide audience appeal of say, MB or BMW. If you want to sell it later, you're selling to conniseurs, not the general public. R models are rare, even here where many Ford execs leased Volvos in recent years. I lied, one more final note. Despite AWD, if you live where it snows, you'll need winter tires. Separate rims are nice, but you're getting oversized brake rotors, so you may need to duplicate the original size of wheel and that ain't cheap, either.
Just remember, you're paying way less than 1/2 and should get more than 1/2 use out of the car.
If you have a clean Carfax, and you should ask to see the service and repair records (the dealer will have access to these via computer using car's VIN), and it checks out mechanically, go for it. Just be aware that for some reasons beyond my comprehension, Swedish engineers seem to like to design high maintenance cost cars. Lots and lots of inspections called for, and they get worse the more miles you roll on the car.
You're spending real money, so don't let the salesman talk too much during your test drive. Ask him to run it through the car wash and check it for leaks. Check everything electrical (not just the stereo!) such as lights, turn signals, alarm, locks, seats, seat heaters, sunroof, rear defrost, instrument panel lights, flashers, switches (there are a lot of them)
cruise, ABS, geartronic operation if automatic, stereo, CD, windows up & down several times in a row) trunk opener, key fob operation (making sure you get both, they're not cheap); then the body stuff like doors, trunk, hood; then the mechanical stuff (as you haven't moved yet) including cold start, hot start, check for acceleration stumble, brake operation, trans shifting, clutch if applicable, cornering, alignment, wheel balance, instrument operation (which is really electrical, but you should be moving once checking these), all of which should perform "as new". Any problem will cost you $ the minute you drive it away. More accurately, $$$$.
The mechanic should look at the suspension as things like tie rod ends, AWD system, bushings, etc. aren't exactly Jeep Wrangler cast iron sturdy. As well, of course, as engine and trans functions. The bevel gear is a service item on AWD cars per owner's manual (connects rear drive axle to rest of power train). Knowing Volvo, I think they really mean it, too.
Spend an hour here on this Forum. You will be surprised at the weird problems that can develop. See, for instance, the guy asking whether new software is needed if he has to replace the outside side mirror. In Volvoworld, that is entirely possible. Its true if your rearview mirror goes on the fritz. No kidding. Someone else with more knowledge than me noted that rear lighting passes through some sort of computer junction. Whodathunkit? Not exactly a black electrical tape repair job if its bad. Even check ATF is a pain in the you know where for no reason I can understand.
BTW, also ask the dealer whether all software upgrades have been done. You don't want to pay for those, either.
On the other hand, if you're interested in AWD and cheap to keep, I can sell you an '01 CRV Honda with only 175K miles on it! There's no way you'd ever put $15K into repairs, I guarantee it. (That's what I mean about a car you want, not just one you can afford).
One final note. You are buying a specialty car that lacks the wide audience appeal of say, MB or BMW. If you want to sell it later, you're selling to conniseurs, not the general public. R models are rare, even here where many Ford execs leased Volvos in recent years. I lied, one more final note. Despite AWD, if you live where it snows, you'll need winter tires. Separate rims are nice, but you're getting oversized brake rotors, so you may need to duplicate the original size of wheel and that ain't cheap, either.
Just remember, you're paying way less than 1/2 and should get more than 1/2 use out of the car.
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