I just acquired a new (to me) 2018 V60 CC T5 and was exploring the vehicle as I plan to add a trailer hitch and perhaps some audio upgrades. In the rear cargo area, under the spare tire insert I found this connector (pics below). Does anyone know what this is for? I've read about a connector for a 12V power outlet (the 15A fuse for this is populated although my car doesn't have this) so maybe that's it?

Any thoughts? And is there a source for the mating connector?

TIA,

Steve

 

This grey blocky connector along with another smaller plug is for the trailer module.
which I just installed on my V60 CC ( also 2018) along with the 4/7 wiring harness and a aftermarket CURT hitch. I will start a new thread on this topic as I ran into a problem I can't figure out...

BTW: Since I didn't take any photos before the install: there still is yet another cable that I can't figure out what it's for. I'll take a photo in the next days...
It'd be great to know what all those wires and plugs are good for...

 

Interesting. I ordered he Curt hitch and wiring harness and planned to use an add-a-fuse to the unused 15 amp circuit in the fuse block (with a 10A fuse as specced in the wiring harness manual). I checked the connector with a multimeter and got no power so I assumed if it is for the factory tow bar kit that some sort of dealer programming would be required to activate it. When you say you installed the trailer module, do you mean an OEM part? Not sure why you would need that with the aftermarket harness.

 

I don't know about connecting a harness directly. But I believe there really isn't much to a wiring harness - I thought about getting a aftermarket one but decided to pay the extra dollars since I was getting the module... that way the connection would be easy. That's what I thought! Unfortunately it is not that easy...
Check the other thread:https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...77/#post495866
to read on my install experience...

The trailer module is a OEM part and helps with controlling the car when towing: it affects the way power is distributed to the axles and also the braking. It also should help to keep swaying of the trailer in check. It is not adding any information to the harness/wiring, except that it detects when a trailer is connected ( I believe it just registers that something is connected to the 4/7 connector).
This last part is nice, because you can not only see that info in the dash, but it also takes away the warning sounds when in reverse and all the other stuff related to the back sensors. (It can be a little annoying when you have just a bike rack and no electrical connection More importantly though the module just keeps the car safer and more efficient when pulling a trailer.

What are you planning to tow with the hitch? Keep us posted on your experience.

 

After reading your post I did a little research and found the module and harness and get it now. Also I was trying to avoid the dealer programming because $$$$.

I ordered the Curt hitch and harness from etrailer.com. This is a video on the harness install: Curt Harness Install

You are right, it is pretty straight forward, the harness has OEM-style plugs to essentially "Y" the existing lights this feeds a relay module and the actual power for the trailer lights comes from a 10A line that (in the video) they feed under the car from the cargo area to the engine compartment to the battery. In the cargo fuse block I have a 15A fuse that is for the 12V accessory port (not present on my car, but might be nice to add if I can find the connector somewhere and buy the OEM 12V outlet - but that's for another day). But that tells me that there should be no issue running a 10A circuit from the fuse block.

I'll use and Add-A-Fuse to add a 10A circuit without losing that 15A one if I decide to pursue the 12V outlet. Like this one: Add-A-Fuse

I read your post on the other thread and I think you are saying the same thing that I found. I was hoping I could get power from that gray connector but couldn't seem to find 12V on it. I figured it needed to be turned on in software or something. Adding the circuit from the fuse block should be easy so I'm not too worried and the aftermarket harness I bought was only 50 bucks so if I want to go OEM later its not a big deal. I'll wait til you figure it out, lol.

Interesting you are in Los Angeles. I am as well. Culver City is my local dealer, although I bought the car used from Carvana and haven't been there yet. I did call them once to see about getting a second "key" and just about threw up at the $675 quote. So hence I wanted to avoid having to get the trailer harness programmed. I knew the car had only one key when I bought it, and expected t take it in the shorts, but not that much!

I use a wheelchair and have a Track Chair for hunting and fishing. Here are a couple of pics (I have been pulling it with my Subaru Outback which was super easy, the trailer harness just plugged into the existing connector hidden under the carpet - click and done). It's a pretty light load and I don't need brake control, so SHOULD be pretty simple, but Volvo doesn't make it easy.

 

Nice setup!
That lightweight trailer without brakes should work just fine.
And I don't really know why we did not stick with the buying a Subaru! We just stopped at Volvo on the way to the Subaru dealer...
Not next time for sure.

 

Well, for me there was no real choice. I needed an AWD station wagon with a little bit of ground clearance and ability to tow my trailer. The Outback changed from wagon to SUV (they call it a crossover) after my model year and the seat is almost 8” higher now. Impossible for me to get into without assistance.

I’ll also say this. The fit and finish is night and day. The Subaru is a tin can by comparison. Wasn’t terribly reliable either, in fact I wasn’t planning on getting a new car but mechanical issues changed that outlook. We’ll see how the V60 goes. Plus the new Subarus are all CANBUS as well, requiring more dealer intervention.