I have a 2004 s60-r and noticed that the exhaust is quite small after a certain point. would a stright pipe make a difference? removing res muffler and turning the duel part into a stright pipe?

 

You could do that a larger single pipe exhaust. It'd be something like the Evolve or iPd oval exhaust. Doing a resonator delete may give you an extra HP bump at the top end but the biggest benefit of doing the resonator delete is eliminating the chance of "rain Squeal" (see below). And it sounds a little better as well. Most of the tuner companies stay with the dual pipe exhaust but with a larger diameter.

Rain Squeal is when the drive shaft rubs against the resonator and causing a loud squealing sound. It happens in rain and slush/snow or if you hit a larger puddle. What happens is the bottom half of the resonator is rapidly cooled from the water/snow hitting the bottom side and in turn bows the top of the resonator upwards to touch the drive shaft.

It sounds like this..
Volvo S60R Rain Squeal - YouTube

And a few pics here...
https://volvoforums.com/forum/genera...75/#post313196

 

Few ponies is better than no ponies at all, i would do a complete and full 2.5 or 3inch exhaust but i dont want to have to buy a new cat for the exhaust.

 

+1 Lol.

Do a full 3" turboback. It'll be what you need once you start doing the tuning to the car.

 

Is there a way to have no cat in your exhaust without throwing a code? like having the 2nd o2 sensor not in exhaust like have it tied off?

 

Not as of now. You'll get the CEL for the cat below efficiency. You can get an O2 spacer but I don't know if that will do the trick for removed the CAT. ARD has rear O2 delete tunes for the 850/X70 so I wouldn't be surprised if they wright one for the P2R's.

 

Where is the exhaust cat? is it on the downpipe?

 

and off topic, what in your opinion is the best spark plugs for s60r? and what gap should they be at?

 

OEM plugs are the best. They come pre-gaped but I don't remember off the top of my head.
All the aftermarker brands have had hit and miss success. Some guys really like the Denso or NGK Iridium plugs, but the ratio of them working without misfires is about 50/50.

The CAT is located in the downpipe.

You can see my CAT on my iPd 3" downpipe in the pic below.

 

so would getting a full 3inch no downpipe be good for now? or will it not really help unless i get the downpipe first?

Also more anoying questions, where is the bov i cant find it? and is it recirculated or is it atmospher?

 

You mean a full 3" cat back exhaust? Every little bit will help but the downpipe will net you biggest gain out of the exhaust side.

I'd go in order... intake pipe, FMIC, Downpipe, exhaust Then tune. Well I'd actually do the usual suspension upgrades first then power but you seem to be leaning on the side of moar power ASAP. Lol.

The car has a Circulation Bypass Valve (CBV). It's integrated into the turbo (on the underside of the turbo if your looking down at the turbo from the top of the engine bay) and it recirculates the air. You have two options for upgrading the OEM diaphragm style CBV, you can do a forge piston style CBV or you can do the BOV. I went with the forge CBV and it's plenty loud when I let off the throttle.
You can do a BOV but you'll have to get a blocking plate for the CBV and attach the BOV some where in line. Most guys have integrated the BOV into the charge air pipe that runs over the top of the engine. Manuals seem to have no problem running an atmospheric BOV cause the ecu shut's off the fuel stream when you let off the throttle but the auto have some issues. But that's no concern for you.

 

Was just woundering as i couldnt find, sounds like it was leaking so i didnt know for sure, why do i need a tune for just an exhaust? its not like a subaru that itle up the boost will it?

 

It's not unheard of for the diaphragm to tear causing a leak. Wouldn't hurt to pull it and see what kind of shape it's in.

You don't need a tune for just an exhaust. I suggested you do the hardware first (intake pipe, FMIC, Downpipe, exhaust) then do the tune after you have the hardware in place.

Tunes for these cars are not cheap so you'll save money by doing one tune spec'd for all the bolt ons you have instead of doing the tune then getting a re-flash every time you add another bolt on part to optimism it's gains.

 

does an intake pipe really help that much? i supose i could do all those you listed, what gain do you think ill be at with those bolt ons?

Final question i think, whats the max boost i can do with stock fuel system? dsm was 14psi when stock was 9psi. didnt know how this is.

 

It does surprisingly. The OEM pipe is pretty restrictive. Doing the intake pipe and the second intake tube allowes the turbo to spool much easier and builds power quicker and smoother. I couldn't tell you what the gainse would be with everything but like in that chart I posted in one of the other threads, just the FMIC and DP gained in the area of 15+ WHP. So I'd expect to see a little more then that.


No such thing as a final question. Lol.
Max boost on the stock R's is 15psi. On my tune I'm running 19psi and there are some others upwards of 21psi, all on the stock fuel system. We're limited more by what the K24 can do rather then the fuel delivery system.

 

so max is 15psi, what is the stock boost level at? i herd once i get a fmic the boost will drop some. that true? and at 19psi tune what whp are you at?

 

Stock boost is 15psi, well actually it's 14.7psi.

Yes, with a overly large intercooler you can have some pressure drop. The FMICs most of us are running have slightly larger volume then the OEM twin ICs so the pressure drop is very minimal.

Not sure right now. The last dyno day I had an issue with a vacuum leak and the car wouldn't hold peak boost through the runs. Results were 252whp & 313tq Another guy with almost the same setup as me did 280ish whp and 305tq. I haven't got it back to the dyno since because I've been dropping my money on building my 850R (which is faster then the S60R, Lol).

 

So the car is running its max stock? thats quite weird.

Im getting some work done, thanks for your help. im going to try and add you for any further questions, seems like i should just ask you instead of posting a thread since ur the only one who seems to answer.

 

I think we might be talking about two different things here.
I'm referring to the max boost the car produce with the stock tune (14.7psi).
The fuel system and turbo can handle more boost but it's limited to the 14.7psi by way of the ECU. With a tune you can achieve 21-22psi safely. But that's about the car's limits.

Go a head and add me but keep posting your questions here in the public forum so others can chime in as well. If I don't respond within a day or two, just send me an IM and I'll get back to you.

 

yes, miss understood eachother, so i couldnt install a boost controller to add more?