I have a 2007 Volvo S60 T5 AWD....only has 64k on it. Was coming back to town after driving 3 hours on interstate and it started to sputter and die. Took it to local mechanic and he said after running diagnostics fuel pump was bad. Replaced it and took it out of town and ran fine at 70-80 mph for 2+ hours and when I pulled off for gas started sputtering again...I was in middle of nowhere so got back on interstate and it ran fine at 70 for another hour until I got in stop and go traffic in Chicago and started to sputter again...got it to local shop and after diagnostics said it was an electronic fuel pressure sensor on fuel rail...replaced it for $800 and got back on intestate and ran fine for 150 miles and in stop and go traffic started souttering again...got it back up to 70 mph and ran another 100 mile till it started sputtering again and died. Have over $1000 in it and no resolution....Chicago shop said it was running rich and one of their codes was a major leak in possibly evap system...also my warning message for gas cap not on tight came on several times???? Any help appreciated!!!!

Bill/Indy

 

Im sorry, but did you pay $800 for a $40 sensor that takes 60 seconds to replace? I hope that $800 was for the fuel pump too.

I would start by looking for an intake leak. Check the corrugated parts of the intake tubing. A smoke test is the easiest way to do it, but you can also check by spraying carb cleaner around the intake tubing in small areas and waiting for a rev increase.

EDIT: any fuel smell to indicate a fuel leak? gas cap message is standard for a small evap leak code.

 

Unfortunately yes on paying that...they had it for 2 days running diagnostics and came up with that...I was stuck as I could not take it anywhere else and I was In Chicago on biz. I had already just had the fuel pump replaced locally...bought a Bosh on Amazon for $150 and local shop charged $200 install. I am thinking it is an evap leak somewhere...in local shop after being towed. Yes on fuel smell but shop had dumped a little when pulling old pump. Will check on evap leak..thinking that is where it is.

 

If you can, bring it to a shop that works on volvos. There are so many thing particular to these cars that it can be and it sounds like the Chicago shop was just tossing parts at it without a good diag.

 

The shop in Chicago actually work on Volvos BMW and Mercedes with good reviews....I now have it at a shop in Indy that specializes in European cars and think it is the fuel pump control module which in retrospect with all the scans and diagnoses would have been one of the cheapest fixes...will update

 

Well I am back....after a fuel pump change, fuel pessure sensor, control module.....it still is not running.....mechanic is going to put in new fuel pump (2nd) and sending unit. It just does not get enough fuel pressure under load...he did the old trick of hitting fuel tank with a hammer and it ran fine which made him think it could be a bad fuel pump even though it was a new Bosch and I had specs checked at Volvo dealer?????

I do not know anything else that can be done at this point.....missing something?????

 

Yes you are missing something - that is someone that knows how to diagnose your problem. Sorry about that.

The fuel pump does not run at fuel speed in your car. With the right tool you can measure the fuel pump duty cycle. I forget the specs but it I think it should be somewhere around 40%. That would be one of the first tests. If duty cycle is too high you can have a bad (new or used) pump, or foreign material/blockage in the tank or fuel lines/filter. The PEM/control units do go bad, but usually it's a connection/corrosion problem when they are in the original mounting point on the outside of the gas tank on some cars. And the fuel pressure sensors are a common replacement item. Question - if you "had specs checked at Volvo dealer" did you not let them diagnose and fix it the first time? (might be more expensive but parts will be under lifetime warranty, you won't have to buy 2 pumps)

Ask the last guy, "I know you think it could be a bad fuel pump because you hit the tank with a hammer, but what is the duty cycle and what are the specs that show the pump is good?" If he does not have the ability to check that, you need to find a different service provider. If duty cycle/pressures/quality of fuel is all ok - your service providers might be looking in the wrong place.

 

He is actually very reputable and has been putting it through all the monitoring on his diagnostics and it shows the fuel pump failing to hold pressure and going down to 20% and less on demand. Also said he was getting some intemittent buzzing from the pump as well. The hammer was just a last ditch old school and it got the pump working again. As for the specs that was in getting the correct fuel pump ordered as there are multiple ones for that year and model.