Fuel Sending Unit, 2014 S60 T5
#1
Fuel Sending Unit, 2014 S60 T5
Hello,
Was getting mixed results on the gas gauge for my S60 with 95K miles. Took into the shop and they said the fuel sending unit was bad and needed to be replaced. The mechanic indicated that the FSU is part of the Fuel Pump and the entire thing has to be swapped out. Estimate was around $2,000 - a lot of labor to drop the gas tank.
Has anyone else run into this and perhaps can share advice / better options?
Thanks
Was getting mixed results on the gas gauge for my S60 with 95K miles. Took into the shop and they said the fuel sending unit was bad and needed to be replaced. The mechanic indicated that the FSU is part of the Fuel Pump and the entire thing has to be swapped out. Estimate was around $2,000 - a lot of labor to drop the gas tank.
Has anyone else run into this and perhaps can share advice / better options?
Thanks
#2
Filled the tank again yesterday, the gauge went up to about 6/10ths for a while. Then it moved down to showing 1/4 full. The Miles-to-Empty started at 160 and then moved to 195.
I am wondering if the problem is more mechanical, as opposed to electric / failed sensor. Asked the mechanic if it might eventually "work itself out", but he was adamant that the whole fuel pump has to be replaced.
I am wondering if the problem is more mechanical, as opposed to electric / failed sensor. Asked the mechanic if it might eventually "work itself out", but he was adamant that the whole fuel pump has to be replaced.
#3
The level sensor is electro-mechanical. There is a float that moves a piece of metal along a sheet that your car uses resistance to send a fuel level on the dash. What happens is the metal can wear out and not make good contact. #6 is the level sending unit in the diagram below. 2014 is a pretty new car to have this fail on in my opinion, but that does not mean it can't be true! If it does get replaced, get new O rings for the top while you are at it. I also attached a photo from a random fuel level sending unit to show you what I mean because I am bad at describing things.
#4
well there's two possible issues - the sending unit which has a float as part of the pump (part runs in the $300 range) and then the wiring. Before dropping $1K (I think 2K is too high for a pump replacement so call around and ask what the book rate for shop hours is), I'd look at a wiring diagram to see where there are common points for ground, voltage etc, and then see if you can access the top of the tank to inspect the wiring. Not sure about 2014s but on other models you can access the top of the pump by removing the rear seat. And no, there's no reason to assume this will work itself out...
#5
Thanks much Dingus and MT.
The explanation and diagram are both very helpful. I have been looking for the tank area schematic. Are the part #s include in the full image or page?
I agree that It does seem a bit early to fail, and 2K is probably at least 40% marked up from the Dealer$hip garage. It would be *awesome* if the top of the tank could be accessed from under the seat, but I believe this is not the case with a 2014 (saw it in some other video).
Dang, I was hoping perhaps that taking some very fast turns, starts / stops or hitting a pothole might jostle it loose .... )
Going to run this by some other local mechanics (Kansas City area) to see what they would charge.
The explanation and diagram are both very helpful. I have been looking for the tank area schematic. Are the part #s include in the full image or page?
I agree that It does seem a bit early to fail, and 2K is probably at least 40% marked up from the Dealer$hip garage. It would be *awesome* if the top of the tank could be accessed from under the seat, but I believe this is not the case with a 2014 (saw it in some other video).
Dang, I was hoping perhaps that taking some very fast turns, starts / stops or hitting a pothole might jostle it loose .... )
Going to run this by some other local mechanics (Kansas City area) to see what they would charge.
#7
I am about to order the parts based on the diagram in the link above.
The Volvo dealer$hip had indicated that the problem was the the FSU, but the whole fuel pump needed to be replaced. I am seeing a separate part available for the FSU at a cost of around $135, while the fuel pump goes for about $750.
Can anyone confirm if a failed FSU can be installed / replaced separately without replacing the fuel pump. The pump is clearly still working, as there is no issue with the delivery of gas to the engine.
The Volvo dealer$hip had indicated that the problem was the the FSU, but the whole fuel pump needed to be replaced. I am seeing a separate part available for the FSU at a cost of around $135, while the fuel pump goes for about $750.
Can anyone confirm if a failed FSU can be installed / replaced separately without replacing the fuel pump. The pump is clearly still working, as there is no issue with the delivery of gas to the engine.
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