Hi everyone,

I'm sorry if this is a repeat question. But there seem to be many answers regarding the timing belt procedure.

The car in question is a 2006 S60 2.5T, with VVT on both cams and 183k on the clock. Currently runs great, but I have no history on the TB, so...here's where I am.

Cam markings line up fine with the notches on the timing cover.

Down by the crank, I see the casting that protrudes from the block, the thing that you're supposed to "center between the notches" or "line up with the groove" or "align with the arrows," or which ever version applies to this engine.

There are no marks, notches, nothing, on the crank timing belt pulley's teeth. I've rotated it clockwise again and again and again, staring at the teeth with an LED flashlight - nothing.

The only mark I can find is behind the auxiliary belt pulley (the pulley on the crank that the serp belt rides in, which I was unable to remove), a raised line cast into the hub (actually there are two, and they seem to be exactly 180 degrees from each other). When the two cam marks are aligned, I see one of these lines that seems to line up with the block casting. I assume one of these lines is TDC and the other is BDC.

My thinking, as, I move forward, is this: I will remove the spark plug in cylinder 1, and do the wood dowel on the piston trick to find when it is at TDC. I will then verify that the cam pulley marks line up, and the cast line on the aux belt pulley lines up. I'll then proceed with the replacement, as outlined by the 1AAuto video and the FCPEuro video.

I'm adding the step of marking the old belt in relation to the gears and the gears in relation to the block. Those marks will be transferred to the new belt, and all should be well, I hope. Since my car has dual VVT, I also assume I have to do the rotate-clockwise-1/4-turn-past-TDC-and-1/4-turn-back thing to unload the VVT components before I remove the old belt.

I'm sure it would be easier to see the crank timing marks if I removed the aux belt crank pulley, but my 1/2" air impact won't budge the center nut. Quite frustrating. So I've gotta sneak it out by removing the bottom cover.

Plan to do the WP and drain/replace with Zerex at the same time. And fix a leaky oil pan drain bolt - any ideas? New copper washer?

Again, I'm really sorry if this is a repeat. I just bought this car and I love it, and I would like to continue loving it for a long time.

Thanks all.

-T

 

here you are
btw: we have Genuine Volvo timing belt kits for $132.17

 

That PDF was super helpful for torque specs, thanks! I got it timed correctly using the cast boss on the backside of the crank serp belt pulley, never did find timing marks on the actual timing belt pulley teeth. Cranked by hand, no resistance other than normal compression. Replaced WP, tensioner, and idler as well. Crossed my fingers, said a prayer, and turned the key. Started right up and ran great. So far no CELs or rough running. Did a drain and fill with 50-50 Zerex/distilled water.

My only lingering concern now is that I somehow screwed up the water pump install- I cleaned the mating surfaces and was very careful with the gasket (although the old one came off in one clean piece and didn't fight me at all)

After I was finished, I read somewhere that you are supposed to use a bead of RTV under the gasket material when installing, which I didn't do. I guess I'm just over thinking it and worrying that the WP will start leaking and I'll have to tear the whole thing down again to replace the gasket. It's all torqued to Volvo specs.

 

Don't worry, the info about using RTV is wrong. The gasket goes on dry.

 

Well, that's reassuring. I suppose I'll just wait and keep an eye on it and hope no coolant leaks develop, then. Thanks!