Total Volvo Newbie… I am looking hard at the purchase of a 2007, 2008, or 2009 Volvo S60 2.5T FWD. I am wanting some advice what to look for/lookout for when buying one. I will probably purchase it over the internet as dealers here in the Midwest are rather proud of their pricing around here.

I currently have a line on a 2007 with 37,000 miles. I want to make sure I have the common problems checked and that this is a reliable car. From the research I have done it seems these are rather reliable but sometimes have issue with the rear shock seals being blown and some various issues with suspension bushings going bad. Also, apparently the 30,000 mile service has NOT been done. Is there anything else that I should make sure to check/is done with the car before the purchase? I am planning to have an independent car inspection company check out the car before the purchase and I was going to make sure that they looked at the specific items above and anything else suggested by you all around here.

Thank you all in advance for any advice that you may give.

Dan

 

I bought my S60 after the previous owner finally gave up after spending almost $17,000 in maintenance in 100k miles (dealer and an independent Volvo specialist). He was careful to follow the maintenance schedule, but things were always breaking (including a $4600 tranny, a $700 alternator, $1600 for a T-Belt change, $1000 for a driver's side window, etc.).

I bought it HOPING most of the big stuff was taken care of, and now after having the equivalent of about $3000 more work done in my first 5000mi I would probably not buy another S60 at any price.

My previous 6 Volvos were great (all RWD), but the FWD ones appear to be different animals altogether. Unless you do your own work, an S60 could be costly to keep on the road, and Consumer Reports called the 2001-2011 models "Mediocre at best," so unless you get a screaming buy (I paid $3000 to my disgruntled nephew for mine), you might consider a more reliable car to own.

 

sounds like you got a lemon...

25,000 km and going on my used s60 with not a dime spent except oil changes. I think I might have to recharge the a/c system but that's it.
But dunno what to tell you to look for, sorry.

 

Really? We just bought a 2007 S60 with 55,000 miles after doing WEEKS of research and several test-drives. Consumer Reports ranked the Volvo S60 FWD in its "Best of the Best Category" in its 2010 Buying Guide for used cars. You read through Edmunds.com and Carsurvey.org and the reviews are overwhelmingly positive. A co-worker has a 2005 and he LOVES his car, praises it whenever I talk to him about it. My neighbor has a 2002 and he is an evangelist for them -- his only problem was having to replace the transmission after neglecting to service it. In fact, the only trouble area I have consistently read about is the transmissions on 2001-2002 models, and radiators appeared to be faulty in the 2001-2005 models. Oh, and people complain that light bulbs burn out quickly.

Oh -- don't lose your remote or key -- it's about $450 to replace it!

 

Well, maybe my luck is about to change, then, and the car suddenly become reliable.

If I listed the parts and service (I have all receipts) my S60 has had (before I recently bought it), you would be astounded. I can see a vehicle having one area where it's a lemon, but this one has had needed work everywhere. First FWD vehicle I've owned (of Audi, Subaru, Honda, Toyota, Olds, Pontiac, and even Fiat) that ever needed F. Struts, Strut Bushings, Inner and outer tie rod ends, half shafts, hub bearings, ALL motor mounts, and a transmission. all at/before 100k miles! And having the driver's side glass (laminated) come out of the regulator, chipping, and costing $1000 to replace (they wouldn't replace it w/o a new regulator as well) would seem most abnormal. It still has one rear laminated side window w/ the outer layer 'shattered' (spontaneously), but still in one piece because of the lamination, but I haven't spent the $500 they want to replace just the glass.

I guess I should have specified mine's a 2001 (just replaced the coil packs, MAF, and the ETM) since they are know to be a more troublesome year.

I DO like the car in many ways. Fuel economy is good for a quick car (T5), handling is decent, and the seats are seductively comfortable. It's "tight" inside compared to previous Volvos, but that's styling, and for 2 people, it's plenty adequate.

And, as I said, for the $3 grand I paid (that's all they offered the P.O. on a trade-in), plus what I've put into it (I did the half shafts, axles myself, and the ETM was warrantied) for a car in absolutely beautiful condition (except the rear side window mentioned), I am not complaining, and I HOPE this one is atypical so far, but done with it's extorting ways, and will now settle down to being a good puppy for the next 100k.

Bob

 

I hope so, I feel bad for you. It's said that it's best to avoid the first model year of any car, no matter the brand, as the owners of those cars are essentially beta-testers. I think there's wisdom in that. I wonder if that's the case with your car.

 

I agree 100%, and would not normally do so myself, but given it was a "family" car at a good price, I took a chance and assumed the risks.

If Volvo has built the S60 into an ultra-reliable model, then good for them, as that's necessary to survive today, and based on my 40 years of Volvos, I would like to see them continue as a brand.

 

So, I found a 2007 S60 2.5T with 19,000 miles at a small car dealer. I had a check done by a pre purchase inspection company and other than normal wear and tear they found sludge in the oil cap. pictures are below. My first instinct is to run. Please let me know if this is common or concerning. Can oil changes every 2000 miles for about 10 or 20,000 miles solve this?

Should I just run?

Any input would greatly be appreciated.

Thank you,

 

2005+ S60 are very reliable, if they had proper maintenance, but the rec volvo oil change interval of 7500 miles with reg oil, is not good. This leads to sludge build up in these white 5 cyl engines. Pass on this one. Keep looking, be patient.

I would suggest you look for a '07+. There are tons of these coming off their leases at good prices.

Look for a southern car, will have no rust issues and probably the suspension would still be in good shape, because of our smooth roads down here

 

These engines tend to run hot (not coolant temps, but other areas of the engine bay, eating anything rubber or plastic). My '01 here in Dallas that had NEVER seen anything but Castrol synthetic since new, yet regularly makes sludge (about a thimble full) in the oil filter canister bottom (it's like really thick peanut butter at the lowest portion of the filter I scoop out each change w/ my index finger), and my oil filler looks JUST like the picture.

I removed the plastic belly shield and now run w/o it, and it seems the temps are lower in the engine bay, but I don't know it that will make a difference. I've also changed to a different brand of synthetic to see if that would make a difference.

My car has 107k miles, runs GREAT, gets 30mpg, and uses NO oil. My nephew, from whom I purchased the car, changed the synthetic oil every 5000mi, BTW.

I didn't like the idea of this sludge, but so far, no adverse effects.

Bob

 

Bob, oil change intervals every 6K miles with synthetic is fine, so you will fine.

For those folks that use regular oil, a 3000 to 3500 mile interval would be much better.

 

We bought a new 2008 S60 2.5T in Dallas in April 2008. Low miles so far, about 27,000 - and change the oil every six months with Pennzoil Platinum, now Ultra. Wife drives the car very easy. We've had the following issues:

- When nearly new, compass in rear view mirror would read the wrong direction. Took it to dealer, they could not duplicate. Hasn't been broken since (did they fix it?)

- When using manual shifter (it's an auto), the shifts would delay and sometimes clunk into gear. Dealer could not reproduce, but it stopped doing it and works fine now.

- We always wondered why we could not use the radio station preset #5 - it simply would not lock a station. In March 2011 the AM reception went out. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the radio. AM works and now the #5 button works. Guess it was defective from day one.

- April 2011, the car would not go into Park. Had to turn it off in N and set the parking brake. Took it to dealer and they replaced the shifter column.

- Two days ago I noticed the auto up on the driver's window won't work right - window goes to top and then lowers - won't go up. You can close it by using the "up", just not "auto up". Found a reset procedure I need to try, but may just take to the dealer.

Bottom line - glad we have the dealer to fix these things for free. Not sure what will happen when warranty is gone.

My biggest complaint about the car - the front wheels get so much brake dust on them, so quickly! I can hand wash and dry the things, and in 1 hour of driving I can see a new layer of brake dust. Can't wait to try new, dust-free pads.