Ok. I am the proud driver (but not owner of) a 2001 S60 nonturbo. I pay for my gas and insurance, but my parents pay for the car (I'm 17). I'm hoping that in the next few years I'll be able to buy the car from my parents so that it becomes mine. I would like this car to be able to last as long as possible. From what I've read, 300k miles and 15 years isn't impossible. Right now the car has 67,000 miles on it, and afaik maintenance has atleast been acceptable. I'm pretty sure it's had regular oil changes and maintenance, but I can't be sure as I don't have proof and we've only had the car since 60k. I had the 60k mile service done at the dealer, and I had to oil changed again at 65,000 miles. The extended warranty just ended, so it probably won't be going back to volvo dealer (except for maybe the timing belt replacement at 105k)

Right now I know a little about cars, but I'm willing to get my hands dirty and learn more. I'd like to do the basic stuff (filters, oil, etc. on my own to save some money).

What should I be doing to get this car into and keep it in good shape?

 

Change plugs (very easy on this car) suggestion to use plain Coppers (Denso or Champion or Bosch), they are inexpensive and last 40K miles. Then change them again.

Clean Throttle body, search

New air filter

Change oil, get filters online for half of dealer cost

Change cabin filter, again, go to anyone else but the dealer for the parts.

Drain and fill transmission oil, buy a case of Mobil 3309, do NOT go to dealer and buy their rip off trans oil, it's not synthetic, and it IS Mobil 3309 rebadged. Huge savings. Do D and F three times.

Rotate tires often

That's a pretty good start

 

Change plugs (very easy on this car) suggestion to use plain Coppers (Denso or Champion or Bosch), they are inexpensive and last 40K miles. Then change them again.
A few questions. To pull the wiring off the plug, do you just pull straight off to expose the plug? Or is the wire somehow bolted or twisted onto the terminal of the plug?
Should I replace the wires at the same time as the plug, and if so how hard is this and how do I do it?
Gap to .040" right?
What is a good brand of antisieze lube?

Clean Throttle body, search
Ok, I've done some searching, but I'm really not that knowledgeable (yet).
Is this part (circled in red) the throttle body? If so, how do I go about cleaning it? I've read tech's recommendation of removing it to clean it, which I guess is OK, but I'll need more detailed directions. Also, if I need to replace the throttle body gasket, I'll need to know where to buy one and how much it costs (I've done some searching on volvo parts sites and been unable to find it.


New air filter
When changing the air filter, should I just open the front edge of the container, squeeze the old one out, and squeeze the new one in, or should I take the whole top off (which looks like i would have to take off the hose that leads to it also)?

Change oil, get filters online for half of dealer cost
Ok. When looking for oil filters, is there some standard or specification they should adhere to for sizing and capacity? Or is it like a volvo proprietary one. How much should an oil filter cost, so I don't get ripped off?
I'm thinking for my next change I might go synthetic so I can do 10,000 mile changes instead of 3,000 mile changes. Any recommendations? Also, am I better taking the car to a quicklube place and have them change the oil, or should I take the time to drain and refill myself? If I do do it myself, I'll need instructions. I'm completely comfortable with learning how to do new things, and I know I'm up to it, I just need a little help getting started.

Change cabin filter, again, go to anyone else but the dealer for the parts.
The cabin air filter is in the white acrylic box right under the glove box, behind the trim, right? Is it worth it to get the charcoal activated filter (I saw it on IPD i beleive) or should I just get the standard one?

Drain and fill transmission oil, buy a case of Mobil 3309, do NOT go to dealer and buy their rip off trans oil, it's not synthetic, and it IS Mobil 3309 rebadged. Huge savings. Do D and F three times.
Where is the transmission fluid reservoir/pan so I can atleast check the color?

Rotate tires often

 

Yeah thats your throttle body. Take the intake hose off by loosening the hose clamp, and clean that out. Take your key out, and open the plate and clean. To change the filter, just open the front edge. Undo the clips and off it comes. I imagine that the oil filters are relativley standard. Next time Im in the shop Ill put my 03 S60 2.4 on the lift and check the type. If you want to change the oil yourself, get some jack stands and a jack, or a lift. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the oil pan and let the oil drain into a bucket. Let the engine cool first unless you want to get burned...or if you have practice changing it and you can avoid that :-). Just do the oil yourself, and go with synthetic. Anyway let the oil drain, and then change the filter. Watch out as oil will spill. Once the pan starts to drip, put the bolt back in and wipe off the drips on the pan with a rag. Put about 4 quarts or so in, check it with the stick, and if necesary, add another half quart. Start your engine and let it run for about thirty seconds, then check it again. I believe that my 03 takes about 5 quarts, so top it off as necesary. and rotate your tires...often, like fred said...

 

So I loosen just the screws with the blue dots on them to clean the throttle body in place? Or the green ones? or both? Also, I know for cleaning it separately carb cleaner is ok, but what should I use for cleaning the TB if I leave it attached while cleaning?

Thanks so much for all the help (And thanks in advance for those who answer my many unanswered questions)

 

Micro instructions, whew!!!

Oil filters are never standard. Get the one, duhhh, ha, that is proper for the S60. Mann, Mahle, and Napa filters are what has been in mine. It's a cartridge not a conventional metal can. The housing is permanent. Get a new crush washer.

Trans fill and check plug is yellow half way down, drivers side between radiator and motor. You will see it if you look hard enough.

Coil plugs go straight in and out. Use gently a screwdriver to pull up the tab first.

You can figure the rest out.

Color doesn't mean squat on oil or transmission oil. It's service time.
At your milage just change it out doing three drain and fills regardless of "color". The trans oil is so sheared down after 50K that you need to replace it. You will notice smoother shifts immediately.

To do all of this yourself, 30 oil and filter, 50 trans oil, 20 plugs (max), 5 can TB cleaner, 15 air filter, 15 cabin air filter means 165 dollars in parts and labor free. Dealer pricing (engine oil with synthetic) 75 min, trans flush with 12 quarts rip off fluid 400, tune up with plugs 150 min, cabin air filter 70, air filter 50, TBcleaning 80: total dealer costover 800dollars, your cost 165: money saved
$ 635 min plus tax saved.

 

Thanks soo much for all the help so far. First thing I'll do is probably tire rotation, followed by throttle body cleaning and transmission fluid change. Do the lug nuts need to be tightened to a certain specification, or do they just need to be tight?

Some of the rubber on the upper engine mount looks torn, but I'll take a picture tomorrow and let you guys tell me if it's OK

EDIT: Oh, and what is the replacement interval on the spark plug wires? Or should I just inspect them with each plug change, and only change them out if they look frayed or damaged?

 

Guy,
use the search function. You will find out that information eventually.Anda hint on the "spark plug wires". There aren't any. It's a coil on plug system like most 00 and newer cars. Have you looked at the engine yet?

 

Well as far as the lug nut thing, I searched for 'lug nut tightness', 'lug nut torque', and 'lug nut' with no real results.

and cut me some slack man, I'm trying. Beleive me, the search function has been my best friend, but some things are harder to find, especially when i don't know all the proper terms.

Thanks for all the help again.

 

Tire Rack will help you with the correct torque on the lug bolts. wwwtirerack.com

r.

 

Ok, thanks.
Tomorrow I'm off from work, so I got a can of throttle body cleaner and I think I'm gonna go ahead and tackle that job then.

 

DO NOT CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY, when you clean the throttlebody, the cleaner runs down the throttle blade rod and gets into the electronics of the ETM, (electronic throttle module) it will mess it up. as for plugs, i recommend Volvo plugs only, they arent much more than aftermarket and they'll go the full 60k like they should, if you plan on doing this yourself, id still recommend volvo only parts. if you dont you'll regret it..

your car has a coilover system for each cylcinder, there is no need to replace it, unless a coil goes bad.

Also your car probably has synthetic trans fluid, VERY expensive, LEAVE it alone, its fine.

Im a Master Volvo tech at a dealer.. i see ppl who work on their own cars quite frequently. its kinda funny actually.. to get instructions from god knows who on the internet..

 

Is there no sort of seal or anything to protect the electronics?

I have the 5 speed automatic transmission, so I should just have the mobil 3309-not synthetic.

 

Ok, so today I just pulled off the intake hose to get a look into the throttle body. Everything on the intake side of the valve looked new and clean. There was some build up on the other side, but it was pretty thin so I didn't bother with it. I did push the valve manually some, and it (surprisingly) smoothed out my idle alot. I think it might have been stuck slightly open and I was able to reclose it.

 

Oh no not another "tech" that think the volvo fluid is synthetic and different. What do you know about that? Just wondering and laughing. Why don't you look up a Volvo chemical parts catalog and see what volvo calls it? Uhhh, you may see that it's called mineral oil base, the "synthetic" fluid is for manual transmissions only. I love these comments. Mobil is the only manufacturer of the JWS 3309 fluid and it's not synthetic, and it is Mobil 3309 rebadged. That one has been beaten to death.

Secondly the "volvo" plugs aren't made by Volvo just like the fluid isn't. It's made by Bosch, and they are nothing but plats. Nothing special and anything at an auto parts store is just fine. Some people have individual preferences.

Thirdly, you CAN clean the TB, there is a Volvo procedure for it. Why don't you look it up? And cleaning the TB is a precursor to the recall on the ETM. Look up the tech bulletin on it. So you should just leave it carboned up? And have idle fluctuations.

Please state your dealership you work at. I would be interested. Please give me any proof ... any proof that the fluid is "synthetic" for the trans. I have been through this point many many times, and it's been universally accepted on this and three other Volvo forums that the fluid is nothing more than Mobil 3309.

Or just ask tech (who is a technician and auto mechanic at a Volvo dealership as well),who is a moderator here, specifically on how to clean the TB, he knows, and he knows plugs as well. And he knows about the trans fluid as well.

Don't spread misinformation

 

Should I go ahead and clean out the TB now? To move the plate, its OK to push it out of the way, right? Or will that hurt something?

Sean

 

I guess since your so smart and know everything, you will know that the cleaning procedure in the TNN has been removed. for the purpose stated above, the 155 download is "suppose"'to be the cure all.So before you start saying im spreading misinformation. Maybe you should recheck your info.Its not my job to inform ppl like you who think they aleadyknow. Also i just said leave the fluid alone, i never said you couldnt change it, it is not regular ATF. fluid it is different. And, no regular ATF will probably not hurt the trans. And as for someone else being a volvo mechanic as well as me. Thats fine.

I know the plugs are made by Bosch, but they say volvo. so i call them volvo plugs.. Thats how i refer to them. It is not a high perf vehicle. so put OEM stuff back in. The gap is already set.

 

I was thinking about the Bosch copper plugs that IPD sells, so that should be OK right?

 

UPDATED: In addition to Mobil 1, Castrol and Valvoline both confirm they have no ATF products for this application.  There may be a Mobil ATF that meets JWS3309 but it is only available in drums.  I have e-mailed Aisin directly to see if they know of any non-Volvo JWS3309 spec ATF.

____
Found my Tech Service Bulletin # 43-12 for 2001 V70 and other 2001 Volvo models.

"5 speed auto trans model AW 55-50SN requires ATF fluid type JWS-3309, volvo P/N 1161540. *Dexron III / Mercon is NOT approved."

Did some research; JWS-3309 fluid is also referenced in some Toyota / Lexus applications (Toyota OEM Type T-IV.) *This is a High Friction Modified (HFM) type fluid - some newer trans require more friction to lockup internal parts. *It appears that these fluids are synthetic base stock.

Found a Toyota / Lexus TSB that clearly states that T-IV fluids cannot be used in Dexron applications and vice versa. *I am skeptical of the Amsoil claims that their ATF is universal across both Dexron and HFM applications - by definition these should be mutually exclusive.

Mobil 1 is NOT HFM, their tech service told me not to use it for the Volvo.

Similarly Chrysler specs newer trans with proprietary ATF +4 HFM fluids, must buy from dealer.

It looks like more HFM replacement fluids are coming out from various oil companies, I am checking with Valvoline / Castrol etc to see if they have any JWS-3309 compatible ATF available. *At the very least I think any HFM rated synthetic ATF would suffice for the XC, but I will do more research.















FOOD for thought..

 

What you don't see to grasp here. Mobil 1 is Dextron /Mercon , and that is not part of the discussion. You introduced it

All discussion has been on your comments of "synthetic", which is dead wrong. there is NO difference between the Volvo branded trans fluids for the Aisin Warner 5 speed automatics and Mobil 3309 (again which is NOT Mobil 1). Mobil 3309 IS the volvo fluid. And the correct fluid to JWS 3309 oil spec. They are the ONLY ones making that oil right now. The volvo fluid is rebranded Mobil 3309. And it should be changed regularly.

TB can be cleaned and are all the time at Dwyer Volvo in Michigan.

12 quart cases are readily available from any Mobil distributor. And three other Volvo forums agree universally that 3309 is THE Volvo fluid and they always get their oil from Mobil. Also Volvo parts suppliers offer the 3309 for sale on line (IPD etc).

Mobil 3309 Is NOT synthetic. Search, and evidence exists from Mobil direct. Quit making unresearched comments that these fluids are synthetic, it's a myth and that's all. No one from Volvo (their bottle doesn't say it either) or tech's or oil manufacturers say it's synthetic. It's not. I have personally seen invoices from dealers that show that they pay anywhere from $1.89 (in 06) to $2.78 (in 07) for the "Volvo fluid" (ends in PN 640 I think for quarts and PN540 for gallons) that are sold in dealers part counters for over $12 per quart. Mobil sells it at any distributor (I have bought two cases myself in two years) the 3309 for about $4 a quart. Toyota sells the T1-V for $4.50 a quart. Ford sells their version for $5 per quart. It's all from Mobil. Only Volvo rips people off. And according to a dealer friend of mine, that is changing very soon. They will offer the Volvo fluid for about $5.50 a quart within the year. I don't know what type of spin they will put on it as to why it's been so expensive... But that is their problem

Read this thread in it's entirety.This has all been settled on this and three other Volvo forums. https://volvoforums.com/m_35817/tm.htm
and read this thread about the trans fluid options available for Aisin Warner 5 speed transmissions and JWS 3309 trans oil, http://www.mazda6tech.com/tsb/aisinwarner.pdf