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S60 D5244T10 Crank No Start

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Old Feb 2, 2023 | 10:30 PM
  #1  
Kermti's Avatar
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Default S60 D5244T10 Crank No Start

Hey Guys,

I have a D5244T10 in my 2011 S60 D5 (67000kms) , it has a BSR stage 1+ tune and was driving great until a couple days ago. I recently (7000kms ago) put a new head on this with new rockers and lifters and re-did every seal possible. So the car is pretty micky mouse.

And then my demise was due to my hubris.

I was troubleshooting a friend's car recently and against all common sense and good practice, I removed the Fuel Control Valve (P# 31478083) from the top of my Injection Pump to try it on my friend's D5.

I gained nothing from the exchange and now my car refuses to run, it will crank all day long though. I have bled any air from the system fuel by cracking each injector using the in tank sender (which still works very well) with ignition on/off until bubbles stop. I understand that these are supposed to self-prime/bleed, though as you have probably already noticed. I'm not smart, and I'm shooting from the hip.

I have access to the legit VIDA 2015A, and have checked fuel pressure on live data. The fuel pressure reading remains at 0hPa during crank. I have tested other D5 engines of the same vintage and they begin building pressure on crank until they reach the 'nominal' value and being to idle.

I am pretty sure the injectors won't activate until there is sufficient pressure in the rail and I have not been able to read any voltage (110-160v) at the injector plug, noid light has no response also. I have checked the resistance across my Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve (P# 31216313) and it reads within the specified ranges of the sensor.



What is killing me is that the car ran perfectly fine until I removed that sensor. I have ordered another Genuine Fuel Control Valve (P# 31478083) in case the valve is rooted or I damaged either of the 2 O-rings when during my injudicious actions.

I should also add, that I have no apparent DSCs other than DPF soot filter codes, I imagine this is due to the excessive cranking, though I'm not sure I can do much about this until the car starts. Please correct me on any of the information above if I'm wrong. Car has 3/4 Tank of Fuel Currently.



Honestly, ANY help is much appreciated.

Thank you.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2023 | 12:49 AM
  #2  
Mathieu Colins's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Kermti
Hey Guys,

I have a D5244T10 in my 2011 S60 D5 (67000kms) , it has a BSR stage 1+ tune and was driving great until a couple days ago. I recently (7000kms ago) put a new head on this with new rockers and lifters and re-did every seal possible. So the car is pretty micky mouse.And then my demise was due to my hubris.

I was troubleshooting a friend's car recently and against all common sense and good practice, I removed the Fuel Control Valve (P# 31478083) from the top of my Injection Pump to try it on my friend's D5.

I gained nothing from the exchange and now my car refuses to run, it will crank all day long though. I have bled any air from the system fuel by cracking each injector using the in tank sender (which still works very well) with ignition on/off until bubbles stop. I understand that these are supposed to self-prime/bleed, though as you have probably already noticed. I'm not smart, and I'm shooting from the hip.

I have access to the legit VIDA 2015A, and have checked fuel pressure on live data. The fuel pressure reading remains at 0hPa during crank. I have tested other D5 engines of the same vintage and they begin building pressure on crank until they reach the 'nominal' value and being to idle.

I am pretty sure the injectors won't activate until there is sufficient pressure in the rail and I have not been able to read any voltage (110-160v) at the injector plug, noid light has no response also. I have checked the resistance across my Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve (P# 31216313) and it reads within the specified ranges of the sensor.



What is killing me is that the car ran perfectly fine until I removed that sensor. I have ordered another Genuine Fuel Control Valve (P# 31478083) in case the valve is rooted or I damaged either of the 2 O-rings when during my injudicious actions.

I should also add, that I have no apparent DSCs other than DPF soot filter codes, I imagine this is due to the excessive cranking, though I'm not sure I can do much about this until the car starts. Please correct me on any of the information above if I'm wrong. Car has 3/4 Tank of Fuel Currently.



Honestly, ANY help is much appreciated.

Thank you.
what about fuel injectors
 
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Old Feb 10, 2023 | 01:30 AM
  #3  
Kermti's Avatar
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Hey Guys,

I didn't narrow it down exactly. However I did get it running.

Replaced High Pressure Injection Pump and the car started after priming a few times. Put everything back together and then went for a test drive. Barely got out the driveway (which is uphill) and it stalled.
Fuel Pressure sensor on the rail was reporting a short to ground. I replaced the entire rail with a known good one, with fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure control valve. Everything ran fine. I have done 500kms in it to allow for the system to get warm and allow DPF to do its thing.

I have just ordered another D5244T10 wreck engine (with fuel system) and I have also purchased a few D5 XC70s running the same with fuel system. I am going to test my parts on those donor vehicles and see which one hurts the system.

My thoughts are that the rail was definitely an issue. Though my concern is that the HP Injection pump is also damaged. I will perform some tests, for science.

Edit: Spelling.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2023 | 08:56 PM
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A stupid comment, but did you check your ground wires?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2023 | 09:34 PM
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Kermti's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Bessarion
A stupid comment, but did you check your ground wires?
There are no stupid comments on this one. I did check over the loom, checked continuity to the ECM and checked all fuses.
 
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