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S60R rough "Cammed" idle and flutter turbo

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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 09:02 AM
  #1  
MrTaco's Avatar
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Exclamation S60R rough "Cammed" idle and flutter turbo

HI all! my saga with my beloved P2 S60R continues! in the last month a weird issue has arised that I can't seem to figure out!

My car: 2006 S60R M66 with 270k miles

The problem: 1) My car seems to have a turbo flutter sound when letting go of boost, this is new and shouldn't be happening as I used to get a woosh. This also has caused my car to not hit boost target and to also not have proper vacuum. I have a boost gauge installed and before I was getting -20 psi vacuum at idle and be able to hit 15lbs of boost. Now I get -10 psi vacuum and my car won't go past ~6lbs of boost.
2) because of this, at the same time, my car has a nasty idle, but VIDA doesn't show me having any misfires, but it sounds like its cammed out like an old V8. I don't know if these two are connected or just happened for both issues to start at the same time.
3) I get error codes for parts that I had changed like 3 months ago. one of them being the TC module which i changed for a new one but now says its "low signal"
4) once the car is warmed up with this issue, if I turn it off then try to turn it on, the car will start but the idle will be so rough that the engine seems to "choke" up and die. I'll have to either turn it on and give it some throttle to keep it alive or have the AC on which I guess puts enough load on the car.


For context: I got an error code for the alt not too long ago and just swapped it a few days ago, the error went away but the "low signal" codes still persist for the other sensors.
My TC module was swapped 5 months ago and is new when I installed it but I'm getting a "signal low" for it which makes no sense.
The EVAP system was swapped a year ago by the previous owner so it's fairly new but I'm also getting error codes.
My intake and exhaust valve modules are also getting codes which I've never seen until this issue arrived.
I checked all my vacuum lines and none are leaking, i even did the water with soap test and nothing.
My MAF was getting a low signal code before this issue started but now I don't get that code with this issue happening.
The alternator is a 160amp and new for the car and so is the battery that was swapped 4 months ago.
The fuel pressure sensor is also brand new and from bosch which I swapped out 3 months ago.


Questions: Could I have put my car into limp mode? and if so, why won't it go back to normal when I clear codes/un-plug the battery?
Those Hilton tune have a button pressing sequence that is used to turn off the tune? is it possible I could've deleted the tune by mistake?

I have screenshots of all my error codes before the "issue" started and after which is the state I'm in right now.

The "before" screenshots will have the MAF code on it which I never swapped my MAF for. (2022-09-05)


If anyone has an idea or something!

I don't mind getting a new TC or the cam sensors but I don't want to buy them and have this issues persist.
 
Attached Thumbnails S60R rough "Cammed" idle and flutter turbo-screenshot-2022-09-05-130512.png   S60R rough "Cammed" idle and flutter turbo-screenshot-2022-10-17-082440.png  

Last edited by MrTaco; Oct 18, 2022 at 08:27 AM.
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Old Oct 21, 2022 | 07:28 PM
  #2  
TayBrown22's Avatar
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Same exact issue on my 07 R my friend, cannot figure it out

terrible idle (sounds cammed)
sometimes idles fine
Boost only gets up to 6 psi
car starts then dies starts then dies then starts
poor acceleration

 
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 01:05 PM
  #3  
MrTaco's Avatar
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Quick update:

Today I switched my TC module (The boost one) from the oem one to the IPD.
The car is still the same, the vacuum though seems to be stable, but still not at where the target is.
Boost is also still at 6psi. not 15psi.

I disconnected the VVT plugs and turned on the car, the car idled the same and sounded the same. MY theory is that it can be that my harness/ground wire is gone or that the actual VVT modules are gone.

I'm going to check the resistance on the modules, which by VIDA standards, it should be 3.7ohms.
 
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