I have a 2001 t5 s60, with 180k, single owner. Recently I had my ball joints replaced at a local volvo mechanic, after getting the car back it would vibrate while turning right. So I took it back and had everything suspension related replaced, bushings, control arms, cv axel, shocks, etc. The mechanic had the car for over a week and could not figure out what was causing the vibration and gave up, only charged me for parts. When driving around town it is not that noticeable, but this past weekend I took the car out of town on the highway and it was not good, in fact it was scary. If I was exiting off the highway, especially on one of those long right corkscrew exit ramps, it felt like the front passenger side tire was going to rip off and that I was on the verge of under-steering. Even changing lanes would cause vibration. My steering also felt softer and I had a lot of play in the wheel, so bad it reminded me of my f150 where you could practically shake the steering wheel without any movement in the wheels.
At first I thought it was the tire because the vibrations correlate to my speed, the faster I go the harder it vibrates. Inside the wheel well you can see where the tire has worn through the plastic well, but the location of the hole is indicative of a left turn, not the right. There is zero vibration while turning left, it only vibrates while turning right. The tire also seems to have no signs of extreme wear from rubbing either. At one point I pulled over at a rest stop expecting to see my tire in shreds from the amount of noise and vibrations coming from that side of the car but nothing. It is obvious it is coming from the front passenger side and is so violent it shakes the entire car. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? I really need to figure this out because my volvo went from constant driving satisfaction to fearing for my life while turning right! Thanks.

 

If I understand well, the car was going fine before the first repair? Did that garage suggest replacing shocks and control arms because of the vibration? That garage has no clue, such vibration is never caused by shocks.

Was the shaking there before replacing the cv joints?

Did you try switching the right front wheel in the rear?

Can you ask someone to inspect all suspension bolts near each wheel for being properly tighten, including the axle end bolt (in the middle of the wheel).

There must be some loose somewhere and that should be felt by lifting one wheel at a time. Keep the steering from moving then ask someone to see for any play in the lifted wheel or nearby suspension.

Then have both wheels sit on ground, and turn the steering fully to the right and check at the right wheel if the rear part of the tire touches anything.

Is there any abnormal wear on both front tires particularly on the inner face?
I do not clearly understand this sentence " Inside the wheel well you can see where the tire has worn through the plastic well, but the location of the hole is indicative of a left turn, not the right."

Check brakes: sliding pin bolts and mounting bolts.

I guess both front wheels are properly secured, and not missing any bolt.

Finally, can you go in a parking lot, and make a tight right turn at low speed, do you hear any noise, any steering surge? This would check for the cv joints.

 

Have the Sway bar end links been replaced? Wouldn't make sense only on right turns; but the engine mount and the transmission mounts often need replacing about this time to. I doubt it that would be the problem based on your description. Also there is a stabilizer bar on under the hood it actually connects to the engine mount. It should have some give to it. But I wonder if you engine is shifting considering you are saying all the control arms and shocks are good.

 

@oragex- Yes the car was fine prior to the ball joint being replaced, which needed replacing. After the ball joint replacement the vibrations started. All the suspension components were original and need replacing anyway, so I figured this would fix the problem. So he changed the cv axels along with everything else I listed thinking this would fix the problem. Which this did not. After taking the car out of town and realizing the severity of the issue I brought it back to him.
Regarding the hole in my wheel-well: there is a hole in the plastic lining of the wheel-well on the front passenger side. But the position of this hole can only be caused by the tire turning left. There is no unusual wear on the tires, or anywhere inside the wheel-well where the tire would touch while turning right.
The car is at the shop now but I will call him first thing monday and recommend what you said. Thanks.

@stop_at_willoughby- I am not sure if the sway bar end links have been replaced, I read about them in another post and thought that could be the potential cause of it as well. I will make sure to mention this to the mechanic. And i've recently had the engine mounts replaced, as well as having a new clutch put in so I am assuming my tranny mounts are pretty good too. The vibrations feels as if i is coming from further in than the tire. Like somewhere in the cv or further up.

I also noticed my steering felt softer, especially on the highway at higher speeds. Could it have anything to do with the steering? thanks.

 

Probably a long shot but the sub-frame bushings could be gone. I plan on ordering these interests from IPD USA and doing my own on 174k s60 in withing the next few thousand miles.

 

Here is a good video explaining what the subframe bushings are and what happens when they go out. Assuming they weren't replaced it sounds like this could be the issue.

 

Needed to buy replacement oil filters and drain plugs so I went ahead and ordered the sub-frame bushing interests. I guess they are on back order. Everyone on the reviews said make sure to buy some extra grease for putting them in.

But thanks for bringing this topic up. It made me realize when on the freeways sometimes when you have to slight turns at like 60+ MPH I do feel a significant pull and also when I brake even when the car is aligned it does veer to one side.

Anyways, at 174k. Knock on wood. I plan on keeping this car for a while so I went ahead and ordered the inserts. About $70. Apparently there is like a 15 day back order so I am glad I am doing this in advance. Might be able to find something similar elsewhere if that ends up being the issue. Sorry to constantly post but most these older S60s and other with the P2 Chassis have similar problems as they age and rack up the miles so I try to prepare myself ahead of time so I don't get taken to the cleaners.

 

@syme21 I think I was confused when you said about Regarding the hole in my wheel-well: there is a hole in the plastic lining of the wheel-well on the front passenger side. But the position of this hole can only be caused by the tire turning left.

So the hole looks like something rubbed on it, it's wear hole? That would most probably explain the severe shaking. I suspect the tire rubs against the plastic. Is the wheel well properly secured with all the small screws and the small metallic plate?

If the wheel well is well in place - funny sounding phrase - the other possibility is the wheel doesn't stay in it's horizontal position. That will explain the 'vague' feeling in the steering (as it's out of geometry) and that will allow the wheel at moments to intermittently hit the well plastic surface giving bumps into the steering.

I would check this things
1. First inspect you had the right lower control arm parts - it's the alloy triangle with some bushings and the lower ball joint attached. Make sure it's the right part (compare size with the replaced piece).
2. Inspect the bushings on this control arm, and also their insertion (must be in the middle of their seating hole).
3. Inspect all bolts that secure the control arm, including the ball joint bolts. Compare how the bolts are placed on the right wheel, and check the left wheel for similarity, must be placed at the same position.
4. Check sub-frame bolts.

All those checks are related to ball joints replacement - the bolts they remove to replace the lower arm. I suspect either a bolt is loose, not in place (happens when they snap a bolt and don't replace it), or possibly put in the wrong way.

5. Check the tire rod end on each side for properly secured (the bolt that attaches to the wheel hub, and the alignment adjustment bolt.

I don,t think it's hard to find, I'd suggest taking the car to a second garage and ask them to inspect all bolts and bushings.

As a note, I would warn this kind of condition is what several garages are looking for to take advantage on the client and suggest replacing several unnecessary parts. So I would be aware, and if the mechanics suggest replacing other parts without clearly showing you a issue that is very obvious to see, I would look for another garage. The issue you have is probably a very simple to find and clear fix. Do not replace any other part under the assumption that is worn and it causes the problem - except if the replacement control arm was not the right part. The problem is caused by the actions during the ball joint repair, all parts already on the car will not cause the issue you are experiencing.

 

@oragex- Thanks for all the help, your information has been very helpful. I spoke to the mechanic and he said he thinks he narrowed it down to the axel or transmission mount, does this sound legit to you? When they had the car previously they said it was not the cv axel so I am not sure what has changed since then. Is it possible that they messed something up considering the car never did this prior to that ball joint replacement?

 

My feeling is they messed up. Such vibration is not due to ordinary wear. But the best indicator is the car didn't had this vibration before, which means that, no matter how much wear some components already have, they are not in cause. But the garages usually will say the opposite and will try to make you spend until you move to another garage. It's typical.

I too suspect an axle, what is surprising it they have replaced it. It is my feeling, but I read about this kind of story once in a while, the best is to go to another garage and have it checked. If the first garage caused the trouble and is not able to locate it, it's not trust worthy.

One guess is that one axle has been damaged when it was removed at the moment of replacing the ball joint on that side (the axle must be suspended with a wire while is disconnected from the wheel hub). Also, can you check that the right axle bracket is well in place ? It's a bracket on the right (the longest) axle to support the axle in the middle.

 

Transmission mount sounds right for the mileage of the car. You said it should be good before, I don't know why you have changed. However, considering it is like a $50 part. They should have been able to show you it was cracking and need replacement regardless. Engine Mount connected to the stabilizer bar goes out at this mileage as well. Can see obvious cracking in the rubber as well. Considering you said you replaced the control arms. I still believe on everything you have described it is the sub frame bushings that you need to address.

You have basically rebuilt the front end if you have done ball joints control arms and the shocks. The transmission mount might need to be replaced but that is cheap and easy IPD USA has a polyurethane one that should never need to be replaced again the life of the car. Again engine mount if you haven't done so already.

But based on everything you had said. I am convinced it is the sub frame bushings. That second video I posted sounds like they explain your similar problem.

I have said it 4 times now. Check the sub frame bushings. They are likely worn out. I won't say anything else. If you don't atleast ask your mechanic to acknowledge it as a possibility. Then you will get nowhere.

The only other potential issue. Could be and I doubt it. But your control arms and other components replaced were not Torqued to Volvo recommendations.

 

@stop_at_willoughby- I will talk to the mechanic and ask him about the sub frame bushings. But I had the bushings changed along with my shocks and control arms, etc. I don't know if that includes the sub frame bushings as well but I will ask. How would a ball joint replacement cause some the sub frame bushings to do that?

 

Not sure but the sub-frame bushings are part of the suspension. You would know if they were actually replaced it is a messy job. Another person on the forum with the V70 which is same Chasis and everything as the S60 had a similar thread. They got the bushing inserts I mentioned above rather than replacing the whole bushings and everything seems to be going smoothly. If you watch the first 3 minute video I linked those two do a very good job of explaining what the sub frame bushings are and what happens to the handling of the car when the begin to fail.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/2001-2...teering-73282/