Shaking when accelerating
#43
This thread has some lasting power!
I just bought a "beater" 2004 S60 AWD 150k miles with a litany of issues. This thread has given me good ideas on what to replace. Not sure if mine is rough at any certain speed...just rough all over! I have tore CV boots, inner on left, outer on right, so I'm starting there. Already removed the left one, removed it's boots and cleaned it up. It actually looks good, so going to grease and reboot that one.
Struts are original Volvo and worn out, so they will have to go. Upper engine mount is completely shot. Have not looked at lower ones, but will just get new ones. Will NOW check those subframe bushings!
Interesting about success with the Cardone axles. People on the Subaru side have trouble with them. Actually everything but new Subaru or rebuilt Subaru(what I got) have been trouble.
I just bought a "beater" 2004 S60 AWD 150k miles with a litany of issues. This thread has given me good ideas on what to replace. Not sure if mine is rough at any certain speed...just rough all over! I have tore CV boots, inner on left, outer on right, so I'm starting there. Already removed the left one, removed it's boots and cleaned it up. It actually looks good, so going to grease and reboot that one.
Struts are original Volvo and worn out, so they will have to go. Upper engine mount is completely shot. Have not looked at lower ones, but will just get new ones. Will NOW check those subframe bushings!
Interesting about success with the Cardone axles. People on the Subaru side have trouble with them. Actually everything but new Subaru or rebuilt Subaru(what I got) have been trouble.
New tires with a road force balance solved over all roughness and made it smooth downhill, but kept vibration over 55mph on the flats and even worse going up hill.
Replaced all the struts and shocks, upper engine and lower tranny stabilizers, new Empi axle on the right, 90k Volvo axle on the left and IPD inserts in the front subframe bushings. None of this made any difference except the inserts making the ride harsh. Oh, did remove my AWD rear axle, but that did nothing, but give me 2 more mpg's.
Down to replacing the lower control arms and anything else looking bad in that area. Will take a look at the real engine mount too. I don't have classic LCA issues of it diving to the left or right on braking. Rough roads will really slam the front end though, like I have worn struts and no bump stops.
If I can ever solve this, I would be happy with this car. :-)
#44
O.K. tech and Johnny M. you were correct. In my case it turned out to be the right drive shaft. I first checked the left shaft for play, and found some play but very little on the inboard side only, outside had no play. After replacing it I test drove it for a short run and actually thought it was fixed but the shakes returned on the freeway the next day. Then I tore apart the right side and found little play in the joints but there also was more play in the inboard joint then there was in the outer joint. This time however after replacing the right shaft she drove smooth as silk at all speeds.
Thought I bring a closure to this case as it may help someone reading this thread.
Cheers!
Thought I bring a closure to this case as it may help someone reading this thread.
Cheers!
#45
I ended up replacing both front CV axles and that did the trick. Have to say it was a major expense since I couldn't find 3rd party axles and had to pay volvo over $1,200.00 for them. I also had to replace several motor mounts in the process. I have since traded in my Volvo XC90. Loved the car but WAY too expensive to fix. The final straw for me was the oil pan was leaking and the front wheel bearings needed to be replaced. Found out to replace the $7.00 leaking gasket I had to basically go through a process that would take 19 hours of labor and required a special part. Dealer wanted $2,500.00 to do it. The front bearings were going to cost me over $350 each. Several volvo mechanics advised to get rid of the car. They even stated most people don't fix the front axles when they go bad. Well good luck to all you Volvo owners - my advice is if it is out of warranty and something starts to shake - drop it and run away. I am a happy man with my new GMC Acadia. I will never own a out of warranty Volvo again...
#46
Google brought me back here also with another issue. The shaking described here when accelerating is what my car is doing as well (2004 S60). It happens a tiny bit at accelerating but 60+ trying to accelerate, it's quite pronounced. The only added detail to mine is I notice the check engine light comes on when the shaking is at it's worst. It stays on for about 5-7 seconds, and then goes off. I also feel like when I'm pushing down the pedal and the shaking is bad, the car is incapable of gaining speed...almost like it's being held back. If I baby the car, I can get as high as 60 but that's when the problems really begin. Any thoughts/clues regarding the check engine light? It seems most comments here point toward the axles but I wasn't sure if the additional detail may be a clue for something else.
#49
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dpn108
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09-10-2021 04:37 PM