Hi I have a 1997 850 wagon, I just order the timing belt kit form ipd. I was wondering if anyone knows of any good links on step by step instructions for changing it.

Thanks

 

I have a 2008 S60 with 75,000 miles on it. I am a driver. It is cold(12degrees).
My car would not start. My dad jumped the battery, did not start. Triple A came out last night, did not start. He told me he do not believe it is the battery. I hope it is nothing serious, not due for a oil change yet. The last maintence was at 30,000 or 40,000 miles.
I am praying when the weather gets warmer this weekend,it will start, I never had a problem with the car not starting. I was thinking it was the timing belt, before I gave my S40 to my son, the timing belt was change at 100,000 miles. I never had a problem with that car not starting, I just had it changed because my dad told me it is suppose to be changed at 100,000 miles.

 

Thanks very much for this advice. My brother lost a timing chain years ago on a Dodge 383 V-8 and the cost of a postponable engine rebuild really stuck in my mind. Nothing to lose to change my 2005 S60 timing belt a little early at 90K. Great post--much appreciated.

 

Just replaced the timing belt on my S60 at 102k on it. I replaced it because I knew that it was getting close to the manufactures 'suggested' replacement interval. I purchased a quality(!) t-belt kit (why would you try and save money for something that is such an important component of your engine??) and replaced the water pump with an OEM one. I highly recommend replacing the water pump while you are in there! The factory t-belt was in great condition, proof that not all cars see the same wear and tear. Nonetheless, replace your belt like 'tech' says. Sooner the better.

I did all the work myself as I have done t-belts on other cars. I also had access to an online repair manual (Michell online) and it was very helpful with the tensioner adjustment. I will say this, the hardest part of this job is getting the serpentine belt back on. Use this:

T70452 Serpentine Belt Tool --- Volvo Parts, Accessories and Performance Specialists Since 1963

 

Just another insight to this...I recently replaced my timing belt, tensioner and Water pump. I picked up a water pump from the dealer when I bought my belt and tensioner. I am glad I picked up my pump at theyre recommendation. Mine happened to be leaking. I went with the 105K interval, mine was in decent condition. (looked about like the ones in the pictures tech posted - a little better if anything) IMHO it varies on the driving conditions. Anyhow the dealers are recommending a WP replacement at the same time because of the location of the WP and its potentially possible it could be due for replacement, mine was just getting a slow little leak...

 

Replacing your water pump while you have the timing belt off is a no brainer regardless if the pump is leaking or 'looks okay'. I say this because you've come this far to get all that taken apart and the belt is off, why wouldn't you replace this vital component. The WP is like your oil pump, they move the life blood of your engine, it just cheap insurance.

 

Agree entirely. I also did this entire procedure myself.

t

 

Dose any one have the tools to replace the timing belt on the s60r?

 

Unfortunately too many dealerships don't subscribe to that policy.

 

Help! I'm doing the timing belt on an 02 S60 non-turbo for a "struggling student". Trying to pull the belt off of the crankshaft pully, I'm worried I may have moved the crankshaft. The only marks I found on the two camshafts were an "M". I lined the front one up to the mark on the cover, but the rear one was one tooth off??? But that's not the problem. I can't find any mark on the crankshaft to line it up? Can anybody tell me what I'm missing?

 

1) I'm assuming that you didn't remove the crankshaft pulley? If you didn't do this, the job definitely becomes harder. IIRC, there is viewable mark after removing the pulley. FWIW, I replaced my timing belt without removing the pulley so I personally know about the extra difficulty. For my 07 S60 there is a small plastic cover (3" x 1") behind that pulley in the 3-o'clock position when looking at the pulley that needed to be removed. If you have this, make sure you remove it. ALWAYS mark the relationship of the crankshaft *sprocket* to the motor. The sprocket is what is behind the pulley (the thing with the grooves that the timing belt goes on). By doing this, if the crankshaft moves, you know and you can put it back to the proper location. I am assuming that you think you moved the crankshaft but you aren't sure. You need to either mark the crank sprocket in relation to the motor BEFORE you begin OR pull the crank pulley so you can see its mark. If I were you, I would rent (or borrow) an air compressor and an impact wrench. Buy the correct socket (30mm? Can't remember) ... and zip off the retaining nut (along with the smaller easier to remove bolts). Pull the pulley off and look for its mark.

2) I don't think you aligned the camshaft pulleys correctly. But, maybe your '02 is different? Mine had BARELY visible teeny tiny hash marks that I, honestly, could not find at first. There were also some big 'M's or some other letter of the alphabet. At first, I was going to use those. Then, I got my wits about me and really really really looked for the marks that I was hoping to see. I could barely find them. However, when I did, they were clearly there. I marked them with a sharpie to see them better.

t

 

Wolfplayer, great reply. I crossed my fingers, went with what I had, and lucked out. Apparently the crank hadn't moved. You are right, I didn't remove the crank pulley, but wouldn't have made any difference other than easier access to the sprocket. The 'M' was the only mark I found on the cam pulley's. I even removed the forward pulley and looked under one of thoes lighted floor model magnifyng glasses to no avail. I could not find ANY marks. You were also right about the back guard at 3clock. I did remove it, actually wasn't very difficult.
Again, great reply, thank you very much!

 

I had a 96 850 Turbo and put over 300,000 miles o it. I changed the belts at 70,140,210K miles. I used Gates belts for each change. The original belt (Volvo) was badly cracked. The Gates belts looked like new each time with 70K on them. The belt condition varies with the ambient temperature also. They hold up better in cooler climates than in the warmer South (as does all other rubber items).
Just bought a 2012 S60 T5. Plan to change the belt at the recommended 120,000 miles with a Gates belt, if they are not make in China.
Tom

 

I did my timing belt today! more work than I expected but I replaced everything, idle pulley, tensioned pulley, water pump, belt loll well everything
its a 2004 S60 2.5T has 105,256 miles on it and its been in Texas ever since it shipped to the states from Belgium so it's had a pretty warm life and even still the belt and pulleys everything was in perfect shape next to no cracking on the belt very little wear on the pulleys, everything spun freely with no noise or play. looked as if I could go another 200k miles on it! just letting people know it's an extremely critical part as this is an interference engine meaning you're in trouble if the belt breaks so ide do it but don't bother until the service interval.

 

I see the kit I got to replace my timing belt and waterpump includes cam and engine seals, I am wondering if you guys have have done your belts have replaced the seals and were there any issues in doing them?

Thank you

 

Seals? I don't recall any seals in the area. Can you tell us more?

 

I was mostly wondering if there were any problems people had come across in removing or installing the crank and cam sprockets or the seals themselves given the limited space around the front of the engine, I should be into today so will just see how it looks when it's all opened up.
Thanks

I did not replace the cam and crank seals as when I opened it up I saw no indication of oil seepage at any of them. My car has 120km and the belt looked great, though my idler bearing was fairly sloppy and it sounded a bit dry. The tensioner bearing seemed fine but there was grease staining on the outer seal face. My water pump was shot, no sign of leakage but the bearings were hard sounding and there was quite a bit of rocking movement of the impeller shaft. I did not remove the balancer/accesory belt drive pulley and did not have any problem woriking the belt on or off. I did find that one of the bolts holding the intake cam sprocket to its advance/retard mechanism had backed out and I was able to spin it the rest of the way out with my fingers....

 

my 07 s60 with 130k is making a pulsating sound from the timing belt area under heavy acceleration

 

Keeping the timed motion on the car is important. Failing to take some action will result to some sort of collision between other car parts such as the valves, cylinder head, cyndrical tube walls and pistons.

 

I just bought a 2002 s60 2.4 NA. It has 96062 miles and I replaced the timing belt, idler, tensioner, and water pump. After removing it was evident that I had made a good move, the belt was in bad shape. It took about 3 hours and was an easy change.

I found an excellent tutorial on YouTube that walks you thru the change,