The will crank and crank and crank but nothing will happen. It seems to have had a new timing belt installed and one of the ignition coils has a broken connector, but it should still fire right? This is my first Volvo and this is killing me. It is getting fuel for sure, but I don't know if it's getting spark or how to test on a ignition coil.

 

If you can, get some starting fluid at the auto parts store. Take off the hose coming from the air filter and spray a 1-2 second burst of fluid into the hose toward the engine. Then try to start. IF it starts for a couple of seconds and dies, you have a fuel delivery issue. IF it does not start, then it is a spark issue. Give it a try and let us know what happens.

 

thank you for thread

 

 

Clean all the oil off the connectors as best you can and also the rest of the top of the motor. Every older Volvo I have worked on has oil on the top of it. Pul the plugs and clean the oil from them too as I can guarantee there is oil down there as well. Put it back together and try it. if it still doesn't start it could be the coil, crank sensor or cam sensor. I would still like to see if it tries to start on starting fluid just to be sure it is not a fuel delivery issue.

 

 

Any updated on this issue? I'm having a similar problem with my 2000 s70, similar amount of oil around the coils on top of the engine. Just wondering if you figured out what your problem was?

 

The oil is usually caused by the oil filler cap gasket not sealing well over time and allowing oil to seep under the cover. If it has been awhile since the cover was off and cleaned, there will usually be quite a bit of oil under there. I would clean each connector as best as possible, then pull each coil and lug and clean them as well as there is most likely oil in the plug holes as well. Once it is all clean, try the starting fluid method I mentioned above, as that will narrow it down to either fuel, spark, or timing. Let us know how it goes and we can take it from there. Also, is the check engine light on and if so can you read the code(s)?

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll get those cleaned up and try some starting fluid then get back to you with my results.
Timing related question; Are these interference motors? My understanding was that they were, and that if the timing had slipped I would have heard popping or grinding or some other obvious noise when the issue occurred, as I was driving about 50 mph then this happened.
Thanks again for the help!

 

Yes, they are most definitely interference engines. I have found that these motors will tolerate the belt slipping one, no more than two teeth before causing issues. At the very least if it was off a tooth it would run rough, two teeth and it would definitely run bad, if at all. Either way, one or two teeth off and it should pop a check engine light. Another thought, can you hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when you first turn the ignition key to "on" not "start? This is best done after the car has been sitting for a few hours.

 

I can definitely hear the fuel pump kick on for a few seconds when I turn the ignition on. That was the first thing I checked. I just pulled the serpentine belt off and the timing belt cover off and the timing marks are dead on, so that doesn't appear to be it. Thank god. Pulled the coils and spark plugs, they look good and everything is really clean. Spark looks good. Sprayed some starter fluid in the air intake and tried starting it, nothing. It seems like it might be turning over kind of sluggishly, but I can't say for sure.

 

Hmmm, if your sure you have spark, it should fire with the starting fluid. You heard the fuel pump so that is a good sign. I would suggest charging the battery a bit, then trying the starting fluid again 2-3 more times (waiting a minute or two between tries to avoid a buildup of too many fumes). Take the plastic intake hose off the air filter box and spray the staring fluid into that. If it still does not fire, Re check the timing just to be sure.....I attached a picture of the timing marks in the proper position. If all checks good, and still no start, then the Crank position sensor or the cam position sensor may be bad. Both can prevent starting.

 

I also recently replaced the front cv joint on the driveshaft. The only thing that I noticed that was close to where I was working was the o2 sensor. I'm pretty sure I didn't damage it, but if I did could that cause this issue? Thanks

 

No it should not. If an O2 sensor goes bad the car will run, but run rough, and it will pop a check engine light. Speaking of that, is the check engine light on and if so, can you read the codes?

 

The check engine light is on. I managed to find a friend who has a decent obd 2 scanner. Scan came up with a bad cam position sensor. I replaced the cam position sensor, cleared the codes and attempted to start the car. No change, and the cam position sensor code came back up. When inspecting the timing components I noticed that the exhaust cam pulley (vvt hub?) has some play in it. I've also heard that it is supposed to be spring loaded or have some play in it? Is it possible that the vvt hub is failing and excess play is allowing to timing marks to line up while the cam timing is actually off? Would this cause a cam position sensor code? I'm about ready to give up on this car, even though it's a solid car, other than the non starting.

 

What was the code number that came up? Also check the wiring to the cam position sensor connector. I cannot remember if it is possible to get the cam position sensor 180 degrees out or not, but that is a possibility. Did you try starting fluid again with the new cam position sensor? Worst case scenario is take it to an indy mechanic and have them tell you what they find. Yes you will pay a diagnostic fee, but then you can decide to fix it yourself or let them do it. Please don't give up on a decent car........too many people do that.

 

P0342

 

Ok, with a 0342 the sensor should fix it unless the sensor is not getting voltage to it or putting a signal out. I would charge up the battery to make sure it is strong, double check the timing to make sure the crank mark is in spec with the cam marks vertical and lined up with the cutouts in the black plastic shroud, and try some starting fluid again. If still no start, check the wiring to the sensor and the connector pins. As long as you have fuel, spark, compression and timing, it should start!

 

 

How do those timing marks look to you? They look good to me, but I'm no expert.