OK, have another issue brewing with the new to me S70. Drove it a few weeks ago and had an issue with transmission wanting to start in third (kind of like winter mode). Also had TRACS and ABS lights on so it fit most of the criteria for an ABS module repair/replace. Sent the Module to Vic Rocha and put it back in this past weekend and everything was cleared up for a few days. Daughter comes home this afternoon and mentions that it is doing the start in third thing again as well as the "upshift arrow" flashing. She also noticed that the light associated with Winter/Wet near the shifter mode is flashing. I took it out tonight and the lights were still flashing, but it drove fine and shifted properly. Transmission fluid level was full at the hot mark after a 4 mile drive and probably 30 minutes of idling.

Where do I start trying to troubleshoot this or does it need to go to a dealer? I'd rather try to do it myself it is relatively simple.

TIA,

Kirk

 

Your first step is to have codes pulled. Post them in here, and we'll go from there

What happened is this: your transmission, for one reason or another, went into limp- home mode. Limp home mode is set by the computer when it gets certain engine or transmission trouble codes, and forces the transmission to stay in 3rd gear in an attempt to prevent further damage, but still allow you to drive home or to a shop. When you switch off the engine and restart it, it rechecks for the problem, and will switch off limp- home mode if the problem doesn't occur right then, but the light will stay on as a warning to get it checked. If the problem occurs again, it'll put it back into limp- home.

 

Got in the car today intending to run into Autozone and have codes read, but started car and no flashing arrow. Sooooo...... Will codes still be in memory? Should I still have somebody read them? What kind of problem would look like this? Seems like something intermittent electrical/electronic to me, but what do I know.

TIA,

Kirk

 

Found a few minutes to run into AutoZone this morning to get codes read. Had a "Shift Solenoid Malfunction" as well as a rich mixture error. Assuming the shift solenoid is our problem how do you folks recommend proceeding from here. Is this a DIY project or is it off to a stealership?

Thanks,

Kirk

 

Thought I would bump this to the top again. Have not had any issues with the transmission for a few weeks, but now it has driven pretty poorly the last couple of days and the up arrow has begun flashing again. Have not had codes checked this time, but last time it spit out something to the effect of "shift solenoid malfunction". Assuming this is still the same issue and given the intermittent nature of it to date, where should I go from here? Don't mind some DIY work if this is something I can resolve in the driveway.

Thanks,

Kirk

 

You might need to replace the solenoid.

 

Where is it?

How much does it cost?

Where can I purchase it?

Any How-To's (preferably illustrated)?

Thanks,

Kirk

 

I need to know exactly which one is bad.

 

OK, I will have to run it into AutoZone and get codes read again and take note of the error number. I assume that will indicate which solenoid to look at.

Thanks,

Kirk

 

OK, had codes read and it was referred to as Shift Solenoid B Malfunction. What I am seeing in my research always refers to S1 and S2. I would assume I am looking for S2.

So back to my questions...

How Much?

Where is it?

Can I do it myself?

Etc.

Thanks,

Kirk

 

6843783 is the part # for the S1/S2 solenoid
You will have to check the Dealer for a price.

Are you comfortable with supporting the motor and dropping the subframe in the front?

The solenoids are located under the black metal cover on the front of the transmission.

 

Could do it with some instructions. Probably put the wheels up on a ramp and use a floor jack some how. Have an engine hoist as well if that helps.

Also found this procedure "http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12985". Appears to be done from the top here for an 850. Since they are almost the same car what are my chances I can go in from this direction?

fcp groton has the solenoid here "http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/17195/nm/Volvo+S70+Non+Turbo+Shift+Solenoid+S1%2CS2+1998-2000+%28Genuine+Volvo%29". Same part number as the one you provided. Price is $109.

Any chance this is the infamous PNP switch problem just manifesting itself here and generating a code somehow?

Once I am into this far should I do both solenoids just to say it was done or are they pretty bullet proof. Keep in mind that the car has 256k miles on the clock.

I probably have other thoughts, but this will get me started.

Thanks for your attention,

Kirk

 

You can try it that way I have never done it that way.
I would replace both.

 

Received my new shift solenoids Monday and went out today to attack this. Transmission cover is tough to get to, but doable with some removals from top and bottom. Trouble has arisen on one of the lower screws. It is corroded enough that the Torx head stripped out before I could get it loosened at all. Have another 2 screws to go, but they look like they can be done. What are recommendations to get this screw out? I have one wheel up on a 4x4 to get some room beneath the car which looked like it was going to be enough until I hit this snag. I might be able to lift it a little further and get a drill onto the screw, but expect that I will inflict some other damage in the process.

Thanks for any assistance,

Kirk

 

Can you get a pair of Vise Grips on the head of the screw?
Also try tapping the torxes bit in then loosen it.

 

Negative on the vice grip, tried already. Head is just "recessed" enough with a lip on the cover I can't get enough bite to turn it loose. Will try tapping the Torx bit into the head in a few minutes.

 

OK, have not had much time to really work on this, but no harm as it sits in my driveway. I have managed to get the screw out that the torx head was messed up on (took a Dremel tool and cut a slot in the head and used a regular screwdriver). Now I have only one screw left on the cover and cannot see how to get a wrench on it. It is located on lower right as you look at the front of the cover. The procedure I referenced for an 850 implied that you could lift the transmission to get enough space to access this one, but when I do that the rest of the car just wants to come with it. Can I remove some mounts or remove the large structural element under the transmission to get to this? Process of replacing the solenoids does not seem bad by itself, but getting access is a real bear. Getting tired of laying on my back for this.

Any help appreciated,

Kirk

 

Back at this today, you can get the last (lower right) screw out by removing the driver side wheel and peeling back the plastic wheel well. Requires using a 1/4" torx bit with an open end wrench because of the tight access.

So...... now can get solenoid/oil cover loose, but realize that the sub-frame blocks total removal of cover blocking access to the solenoids. Have borrowed the "ALLdata" procedure from a friend and realize why they want to lift the car and remove the frame to get access. Having bitten off more than I expected anybody have a good idea how to get out of this from here? Am considering rolling the whole shebang into a local shop, but not quite ready to admit defeat yet.

HELP!!!

Kirk

 

Drop the subframe. It's not THAT difficult... it's more time- consuming than anything else. Rent an engine support fixture from a tool rental shop, and securely install it. If you still don't feel comfortable, get the car to a shop... one that specializes in Volvos/ european cars... but be prepared to explain yourself, as many mechanics HATE working on stuff that someone already tried to do and left things partially disassembled.

 

That is about where I am at. Hate to admit defeat yet, but it is getting close. Any hints/tips on the subframe would be appreciated. I don't mind the wrenching, it just is taking more time than I had expected and I do have other things I should be doing.

I have an engine hoist and can roll the front wheels of the car up on ramps. Will that give me enough access to get the subframe away. I really don't need much more than about 2 inches to get the transmission cover removed.

I have also started exploring the fall back position of finding somebody to button this back up for me, but those negotiations are still proceeding.

Thanks,

Kirk