Ok, so...
I have a question with two variables - please bear with me, as my S70 is my daily driver, and I desparately need an answer - thanks Volvo forum!

Short version: My 1998 Volvo S70 GLT 2.4 lpt, with 112K on it, just started using massive amounts of oil, but doesn't leave any oil on the garage floor. Does not smoke from the dipstick, however, it looks like it is "spitting" a watery / oily" type residue out of the exhaust pipe. consumption is a quart every 5 days!

Long version (with variables): I had my car at a local shop - extremely nice guys - not Volvo experts... They were hunting down a "major evap" code that was keeping me from passing emissions (and renewing vehicle tags). In doing so, they discovered the vacuum line ( I assume, I dunno really) right next to the oil filler spout that runs along the block, was brittle, cracked and leaky. They replaced it with a temporary hose run over the top of the intake side of the engine and down to mate it to the original hose somewhere. The code went away, and I went off to get my tags renewed, with full intentions of bringing the car back for a real proper fix, after the emissions test (tags were now dead for two weeks..) In the mean time the following issue has popped up. I will openly admit to being slack when it comes to checking my oil level. I usually check it once a month at best, and it never really seems to be noticeably low between changes, so I dont worry about it. Well within 2 weeks of getting the car worked on (and the temporary vacuum hose fix in place), I hit the gas hard in a corner once and the oil light came on for just a second. I didn't really think too much about it at the time. Next time I drove the car (that same evening) I accelerated hard, and the light came on for a sec again. As soon as I got home I checked the oil level - nothing reading on the stick! I went into pannick mode and put a quart in while the car was still hot - still no reading on the stick! So I put another quart in. I now had a reading on the very low end of the two hash marks on the stick. so I put about another 1/2 quart in, and let the car sit to cool off. SO... I came out started the car briefly to circulate the oil, waited about 3 minutes for it to settle in the pan and checked the oil a couple of hours later (mind you I had not put any more oil in) and the reading was ABOVE the top part of the stick! I'M BAFFLED!! AND NOW IT REALLY GETS BAD... Since then, the car is using a quart of oil in a few days! It doesnt have any visible leaks, it doesnt smell like burning oil etc. It appears that some has "oozed" back out of the dipstick hole, and from the oil cap, and as mentioned before, when I start it up, I see what looks like an oily / watery (could be wrong about the "watery") substance "spitting" from the tailpipe at start up - but after start up, no visible smoke from what I can tell.
What's the deal??
HELP!!
Everything I've read on the Forum thus far, would make me think the vaccuum line the mechanic McGyvered together is part of the PCV system. Does this sound like the case? Should a complete PCV kit from IPD etc solve the issue, or did I somehow overflow the oil, and cause a major snafu??
Somebody please help me!!

PS: as I look at the picture of all the parts on IPD's site, it appears that the hose the mechanic bypassed is the PCV hose that goes from the valve cover outlet to the "Oil seperator". What the heck is an "Oil seperator" anyway?...
Thanks guys!

 

That can be causing the car to burn the oil. That hose needs to be connected.
The oil seperator is part of the vent system. If the system is not working properly it will burn oil.

 

Where exactly IS the "Oil Separator? My nephew's 99 S70 GLT (turbo) is loosing oil as well, yet in thinking about past experiences with Turbo Chargers, since the bearing spins at over 100,000 RPM's and is lubricated with oil and only cooled with the forced air through the Inter-Cooler, could the bearing in the Turbo Charger have seized and cracked the housing causing the oil to go right into the exhaust? The plugs are all clean and no external oil leaks but a strong sulfur smell comes out of the exhaust as though the oil has not only fouled the O2 Sensor but the catalytic converter as well. On an emissions test, the O2 Sensor, the Catalyst and the Evap say their Trip Cycle has not completed. We don't have emissions Inspections here but in Northern Virginia they do. Could the mass amount of oil that has to be added be from a crack in the Turbo Charger?

Chrysler's had the same problem with the oil lines "coking", and I replaced many a Turbo Charger under the Federal 5 year/50K warranty, but they finally added coolant lines to help cool the bearing, oil and turbine within.

By the way, how do I go about checking the turbine on this S70? Remove the heat-shield near the firewall?

Thanx in Advance,

~Stillin~

 

So it turns out, my mechanic hooked the vaccuum line fron the valve cover up incorrectly, and instead of, it was sucking oil up into itself instead. When I took the plastic cosmetic valve cover off there was oil everywhere. He's (the mechanic) still not sure where the line(s) actually go, but after cutting and plugging them (no vaccuum in eith direction) I have no more oil consumption and my check engine light is still off... not sure which direction to go next...

 

It is under the intake manifold.Like right next to the A/C comp.

 

I am having a similar problem. I have a 98 S70 non turbo that drinks oil pretty bad. No leaks, no smoke, but the exhaust pipe is very black. At one time, it did look oily, but we had brought the car into a Vovlo Mech (same guy we bought the car from) here in Houston for some work and mentioned the problem. He replaced a knock sensor, timing belt, and a vacuum line (which he said may be the problem), along with some other small things, and after the work was completed I noticed the pipe is no longer oily but the car still burns oil.

Id say after about 500-600 miles, I have to add 2-3 quarts. We are using Valvoline 10-40 synthetic blend (red quart).

This is my wifes car and I hate the damn thing. It only has 135,000 miles on it, but wow, what a maintenance queen this car is.

Could it be a bad valve or another vacuum line? Im so tired of spending money on this car, even though the consensus is the car will last forever (but at what price?)...in which I believe most any car will if you take care of it.

 

Run a wet and dry compression test on the Engine. My first guess would have been the Turbo (like it was with an earlier post above), but to ascertain exactly where your oil is going...a compression test is the first place I'd go along with a vacuum test while running. Don't pay someone to do this. You can buy a Compression guage and vacuum gauge cheap and the limited directions will tell you how to perform this test. If unsure, here's a quick run down: Remove all your spark plugs and screw in the compression hose.. Have someone spin the engine about four times. Record the first reading for the cylinder and the last reading. Repeat for the rest of your cylinders recording compression as you go along. If readings are low or one cylinder is way off from the others, then you have a "Mechanical" problem. In performing a "wet" test. Repeat the compression test as above, but put 20 cc's of oil into each spark plug port before attaching the compression hose to it. This "seals" the rings, and once again, record the first reading and the last across all your spark plug banks. If the reading is considerably higher, then your rings are worn. Keep a copy of your readings. A vacuum test is done with the car running. If the vacuum gauge is jerking up and down, it's usually a valve. The last test is known as a Cylinder Leakage Test. If you don't have a Cylinder Leakage Tester, a controlled air supply from an air compressor will work just as good. You can even use the same compression tester hose to hook into the air compressor. An ideal air pressure to do this test at is around 65 psi. Then listen at the intake (throttle body), the exhaust pipe, the oil dipstick tube and the coolant recovery jug for ANY air escaping. If air is escaping from the intake or exhaust, then more than likely it's an intake or exhaust valve. If at the dipstick or coolant recovery jug...kinda start looking at an expensive Engine problem. Coolant air leak? Possible cracked cylinder head or blown head gasket. Air escaping from the dipstick? Really worn piston rings or a cracked block. If that be the case, wait over night and remove the engine oil drain plug slowly, to catch whats at the bottom of your oil pan. Anything other than oil, such as anti-freeze or coolant means big time engine problem.

If you do these tests yourself, it will save you buku money. I couldn't believe the cost of what some shops are charging to just do these simple tests, but in the long run, it will save you money in case you need to replacer the engine. My sister had a used, with a warranty of a year on it...Engine installed in the aforementioned post above when I found that cylinder # 2 was dead. Advance Auto® are generally quite helpful in selling the diagnostic tools as well as explaining what to do step by step if you need help.

Good Luck,

~Stillin~

 

I am positive that the head is not cracked. There is no evidence of water in the oil, nor is there any smoke. As far as the rings, I would suspect if there was "blow by" there would also be smoke out of the exhaust pipe, although I would think this would be true if there was a bad valve in the head. I am planning on taking the car somewhere other than the Volvo guy I have been taking it to/

He told me a year ago that older cars burn more oil...sure...but when I had older american vehicles in the past this was not true. My wife believes him, but I dont think a vehicle should be burning that much oil. Heck, I had a 90 Maxima that didnt burn oil. It leaked it, but never burned it. Ive owned more Fords than anything and never had this issue.

I just dont know if this is a common problem with these cars. The car was paid for with cash, but I sure would like to get rid of it although my wife loves it.

 

Absoultely blocked PCV system. Different cars have slightly different setup of the PCVs. But here you go:

850 Turbo Info:
http://www.lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/index.html

1998 Volvo V70 (non-turbo) DIY that I did last year:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...-model-98-v70/

 

Yeah, I vote blocked PCV system. These cars use oil in the following ways: PCV, bad turbo, and seal leaks. Ring leaks are common... after like 250,000 miles or more. Note that blocked PCV system WILL lead to seal failure, so you want to fix it soon. Don't forget to clean out the ports in the block where the oil trap attaches to it- use solvent and a small bottle brush.

 

I am having yhe same issue with my 98 s70 turbo. It also leaks but can not find the leak anywhere. I have read it was the pvc system also. It is also causing mine to hiccup at times.
I have tried to find pictures of the pvc system while in the car so I can fix it. If anyone has pics and diagram can you send or post them. IPD sells a complete pvc system for 140.

 

Link in my post #9 above.

 

We are taking the car to the volvo tech tomorrow. AND, the a/c went out today. Yah!!!!

This car seems to be a money pit. I will never allow her to buy another Volvo...of course I know the a/c could have gone out on any vehicle...this car just sucks.

 

So the PCV system has been replaced, but the car still loves using oil...and its getting worse. After about 200 miles, it needs a quart. It doesnt smoke, or leak. Anything else I can check?