My check engine light is on.

When I first start my car after it's been sitting for any period of time it will stall out after a couple of seconds. When I start it again it usually will do fine. Sometimes it struggles for a moment.

My diagnostic trouble codes are:
P0463 (Fuel Level Sensor Sensor High Circuit Input)
P0506 (Idle Control System RPM lower than expected)
P0442 (Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak))

Any ideas on how to resolve??


Secondary Issue:
My lights seem to expire very quickly. Possible electrical issue? I just replaced my headlight a few weeks ago and it's already out. My left brake light keeps going out. Sometimes it will return to life on occasion, but then it will go out again.

 

Ok, just a few quick things to get you started. First off, I would clear all the codes out and see which ones comes back. Whenever I get codes to trip a check engine light I first clear them to see if they come back or are a fluke. If any codes come back a second time then consider them valid and we can go from there. As for the lights, did you happen to touch the glass part of the headlight bulb when you changed it? That is a big no-no as the oil from your fingers creates hot spots on the glass and the bulbs will burn out in short order. The left brake light could be a bad bulb, a loose bulb in the socket, a dirty socket or connection, a loose fuse....... On both bulb issues, start simple, change them! You may have gotten a bad bulb or two, Quality is not what it used to be. Good luck and keep us updated so we can help further if needed, and if the issue gets resolved, please post waht solved it so it will help others in the future.

 

The P0463 is reporting the fuel level sensor has a circuit or sensor issue (ie open or shorted). You didn't mention if your gas guage is working or not. Could be the wiring from the tank to the instrument cluster or the in-tank sensor (I believe its part of the pump). I'd start with a visual on the wiring at the top of the fuel tank.
The P0506 is saying the ECU is measuring an idle RPM lower than expected... could be caused by a fuel mix or fuel pressure issue etc.

The P0442 is saying there's a leak in the evap system. There's a vacuum line that runs from the engine to the purge valve then to the charcoal cannister. Usually its either the purge valve or the vacuum line. You'd need to go under the car to inspect the line or have a smoke test done to see if there's tear in that line. Note this may be related to the P0506 code - ie this may be where you have a vaccuum leak, which in turn is messing with the idle mixture.

 

Thanks! I'll see what I can find out.

In the meantime, I replaced my entire driver headlight assembly and my low beam headlight still doesn't work. My other headlight works fine, and the high beam light works fine. Is there something that could be causing only one headlight to not work (other than a bad bulb)?

 

regarding the headlight - I hope you didn't replace the headlight bucket hoping that would fix a low beam issue. I'd start by checking for voltage at the connector and throw in a new bulb just to be sure. Also inspect the connector to look for any blistered insulation or damage to the connector itself. If there's no voltage then check to see if your fuses are good. Next is to check a wiring diagram to see if your model has a low beam relay inside the CEM. A CEM fault can cause the low beams to fail. Also try this - see if when you put the high beams on in the low beam also comes on. If all else looks normal it could be the switch (again look at a wiring diagram to see if the switch works both lights from one circuit or if they are separated). My hunch would be a bulb or a connector issue as most likely, next is the fuse or the CEM/relay

 

+ to this........betting on wiring/connector or fuse.

 

Haha, no. I had already ordered it for unrelated reasons and while waiting for it to arrive my headlight had stopped working.

Yep! Easy peasy. It was just a blown fuse 😅

I had assumed a single fuse would control both headlights and figured since only one was out it wasn't the fuse. I assumed incorrectly.

 

So my next issue I'm hoping to find an easy fix to is my rear driver brake light. I can go wiggle the connector in my trunk and it will come back on.

But the next time I start my car it will be off again. Or sometimes while driving it will stop. Sometimes while driving it will suddenly work.

Is this as simple as purchasing a new connector and splicing it onto the existing wires? Anything I should be aware of before trying this?

 

After further thought, the regular tail light and blinker light works fine. I'm wondering if I just need to check the connection for the wire that serves the brake light. Does anyone know which wire is for the brake light?

 

The one with power when the pedal is pushed - or the green and yellow one on the left side.

 

So I wiggled and pushed the wire in and thought I sensed some movement. My brake light started working again and did so for about 20 minutes. It's now stopped working again. I have searched endlessly for a replacement tail light assembly connector harness thing and can't find one. Any ideas on how I can permanently resolve this issue??

 

Going back to the codes from the original post--is it likely there is an issue with my IAC valve? Would a dirty IAC trigger those codes?

 

Why not just take it at face value? The car has to use some judgement to set codes, but it seems me the situation where the rpms are lower than expected is actually a pretty easy one to guess you've got a vacuum leak, and the car is testing evap leaks directly. if the IAC was dirty, then it would run stoichiometric and it would run smoothly. I am just making that up.

My loooooong experience with cars and taillights is that the main source of corrosion and bad connections, by a factor of 100:1, is right at the bulb itself.

 

It is an entirely ghetto fix I have used in the past, but it works to fix a loose connection. From the back side of the connector, push the wire into the connector tightly to the point where the bulb is working as it should. Then take a round toothpick and push it in between the wire and the plastic connector (on the backside of the connector, not the front) so it holds the wire in place. Snap off any excess toothpick if you desire, and viola!!! A quick, easy, and in many cases a long term fix!

 

Any updates on this?