Volvo S70 Made from 1998 to 2000, this sporty model replaced the 850 sedan and instantly became a hit.

check ingine light on (RADIATOR FAN WORKS AFTER THE CAR IS OFF)

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Old 01-03-2011, 01:41 AM
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Exclamation check ingine light on (RADIATOR FAN WORKS AFTER THE CAR IS OFF)

like the tittle says, my radiator fan works after i turn off my 98 s70 glt, sometimes it turns on when im driving and the engine temperature drops way down, specially on the freeways. the funny thing it only does that when the temperatures are below freezing outside.... anybody know why? i also had it dropped off to my mechanic, twice! he replaced the fan's sensor and even checked the wiring. but the check engine light still came on and the fan still works after i turn off the car and engine temperature falls to zero on freeway. could it be because of the coolant was not mixed correctly with water? i mean nothing else is coming to mind. anybody has any ideas please let me know.
 
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:26 PM
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if i remember correctly it will have a 121 code for the ect sensor. if so put a new sensor and t-stat in it and you will be good to go. may get away w/ just a t-stat.
 
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:27 PM
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oh yes, make sure you use VOLVO parts.
 
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:44 PM
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whats a t-stat?
 
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:05 PM
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Thermostat. Very cheep part, like $12.
http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...thermostat.htm
 
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Old 01-07-2011, 02:46 AM
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hey thanks, i found a really good video on how to change it. by the way does anybody know what opening temperature thermostat do i need for a 98 s70 GLT (2.4L Turbo)?
 
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:18 AM
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192 Degrees Fahrenheit is OE recommended.
 
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Old 01-09-2011, 11:17 PM
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Did this get resolved? My 98 s70 t5 is having the same exact issue and I was wondering exactly what it is/was?
 
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Old 01-10-2011, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wishihadatalon
Did this get resolved? My 98 s70 t5 is having the same exact issue and I was wondering exactly what it is/was?
i found an exact/step by step video on how to change it. here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch? andv=_YIqu2BMuVo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lByh7...eature=related i am going to order the thermostat from ebay on monday. they are like 20 bucks new, and Car Quest sell them for $160 near my house. crazy! anyway im going to change it this thursday, maybe weekends. ill let u know when i do.
 
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Old 01-10-2011, 09:12 AM
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what about the sensor? I took an hour long drive today and it took nearly 45 minutes for the gauge to move. Then all of the sudden it went straight up to temp which is pretty much opposite of how a thermostat operates. I hear my fans oh high when I key the car on and after I turn the car off. Also my heat is very very poor.
 
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:00 PM
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yes thats exactly what i have. oh and the funny thing it only has problems when the temperatures are freezing or below freezing. i changed the radiator fan's sensor but the problem has not changed. so im pretty sure its the thermostat. by the way for a t5 i think u would have to get colder temperature thermostat, depending on how much boost ur running.
 
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Old 01-10-2011, 05:06 PM
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Did you fan issue go away after the sensor? I am having a hard time believing that a bad thermostat is causing the fans to function funny as the thermostat is a mechanical device with zero electrical function. I ordered a sensor today and have a thermostat waiting to go in but I really would like to get to the bottom of the issue incase it happens again so I don't ignorantly replace another expensive sensor.
 
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Old 01-10-2011, 07:38 PM
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I replaced both my thermostat and ECT this weekend. My fan no longer spins after I shut off the car. The CEL so far has stayed off after I reset the OBD, but I've only driven 5 miles since the reset.

ECT was $44 at PepBoys. I had to pay that since I bought a coolant level sensor instead of a coolant temperature sensor and needed it asap. They're like $30 online.
 
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by yoyoman
I replaced both my thermostat and ECT this weekend. My fan no longer spins after I shut off the car. The CEL so far has stayed off after I reset the OBD, but I've only driven 5 miles since the reset.

ECT was $44 at PepBoys. I had to pay that since I bought a coolant level sensor instead of a coolant temperature sensor and needed it asap. They're like $30 online.
This is good news. My car should be back to normal by the weekend
 
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by wishihadatalon
Did you fan issue go away after the sensor? I am having a hard time believing that a bad thermostat is causing the fans to function funny as the thermostat is a mechanical device with zero electrical function. I ordered a sensor today and have a thermostat waiting to go in but I really would like to get to the bottom of the issue incase it happens again so I don't ignorantly replace another expensive sensor.
after my mechanic replaced just the sensor the problem did not go away. matter of fact i had to bring the car back to him. he even checked the electrical wiring and said everything was ok. by the way do u guys know if im going to have to replace the censor again after i change the thermostat?
 
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:16 AM
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No. The thermostat has nothing to do with the sensor. The thermostat is a mechanical part, like a spring.

For those of you who NEED TO KNOW. The car is designed to run at a certain temperature. The faster the car reaches that temperature, the better off the engine will be. So the engineers designed a device called a thermostat to stop coolant fluid flow until the car gets to the right temp. The thermostat has a temperature sensitive spring that expands and contracts. It starts out expanded and as it heats up it contracts. Since the stat is closed when the car start, the engines warms up fast. Once it gets to operating temp, the spring contracts and lets the coolant flow through the radiator and start to cool the motor off to maintain it's designed temp.

These devices (thermostats) fail in a couple of ways:
1. The housing breaks and causes a partial open situation. This is most common and causes the car to take a long time to warm up.
2. The stick open. The spring gets weak and doesn't close all the way. Causes the car not to warm up all the way most of the time.
3. Sticks close. The worse condition, will cause over heating.

Either way, these things cost less than $25, more like $12. I'm not real sensitive as to where I get them. Old technology that isn't rocket science.

So, if you have a problem with your car heating up to slow, or running cold or over heating, the best thing to do is get $15 and replace the thermostat and see what happens. It takes about 15 minutes to replace it and NO you don't have to drain or replace all of your coolant.
 
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:20 AM
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:19 PM
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Replaced the thermostat and sensor last night and had warm feet this morning. Glad to see that my mileage is back up to where it used to be as well after spending $65 in gas this week.
 
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:08 PM
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Wish your water pump is not operating properly. It needs to be replaced.
 
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by loudgoldwing
Wish your water pump is not operating properly. It needs to be replaced.
Huh? The car is functioning as intended. I am thrilled to have everything on this car working properly again. The last week has been hell. Front passenger control arm, drivers side tie rod, new brake calipers on both front wheels, new brake hoses, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, and a heater core.
 


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