Volvo S70 Made from 1998 to 2000, this sporty model replaced the 850 sedan and instantly became a hit.

Cleaned Injectors - CAR WON'T START HELP!

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  #21  
Old 11-22-2013, 03:46 PM
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kwatt you are on the right track to why i was doing what I was doing. The car was experiencing power loss. This was due to a failing fuel pump. I put in an autozone pump (which in fact IS a WALBRO, wahoo) and everything primed up perfectly!

Bad news though! it was so much pressure that it blew the injector O rings (since I didnt replace them. So I went to replace them. bottoms were easy until I broke that black plastic lower rail thing?!

What is this!? it goes around the injectors and into a vacuum tube into the air intake. I broke this and Im not sure where to find it or what its called.

I also broke the huge ring that holds the fuel pump down in the tank. Where can I get these parts. 99 S70 non turbo non AWD.

Help appreaciated!

Cheers,
 
  #22  
Old 11-22-2013, 05:01 PM
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Your post is confusing. There should be no case where the injector o-rngs blow because of the fuel pump. I think maybe you are talking about some other seal. I am assuming that also because you said you broke the lock ring for the tank.

Regarding the lock ring; You'll have to go to a junk yard or Volvo dealer for the lock ring. I'm curious how you broke it. Usually you tap it gently to rotate it until the tabs align with the openings. Never use a screwdriver or other sharp tool so you don't poke a hole in the tank.

Regarding the seals. I've never taken the pump out of a volvo but there are a few basics.
There is a seal between the tank and the assembly that holds the fuel pump. The big o-ring should come with the pump.
-The sock on the bottom is a filter and it just presses onto the pump.
-The pump output will fit into a heavy seal. This seal also acts as a dampener to handle the pressure surge and stabilize the flow.
-The fuel level control is easy to damage. You don't want to mess with it since your guage will be off.
-If you still have the old unit, measure from the top of the assembly to the bottom of the pump (without the sock on). When you put the new one on, you want to have this distance. too high and you will not pick up gas when its low, too low and you could bottom out the sock and wear a hole in it.

Maybe there is a video on replacing the fuel pump. Like I said, I have not done a Volvo pump, but plenty of others and plus or minus a few contraptions, they are all about the same.
 
  #23  
Old 11-22-2013, 05:36 PM
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Wow! I knew there was a reason I did not read this the first time I seen the title.

OP, You still have not enlightened us on how you "cleaned" the injectors?

Just for EVERYONE'S information:


1. All gas at refueling stations have detergents in the fuel you purchase. It is NOT common for injectors to get clogged or "dirty" to the point that you need to remove the injectors for cleaning. Usually, fuel injector cleaner that you purchase over the counter is sufficient enough to "clean" the injectors. I toss in a bottle of Lucas every 2,500 miles or every 90 days.

2. If you want to "rid" the system of fuel or pressure, all you have to do is let the car sit for an hour or so. Or you can poke the valve on the end of the rail and the pressure will be removed. THERE IS NO WAY to get the fuel out of the rail. The injectors only open to a certain amount of pressure so as soon as the pressure falls, the injectors will stop functioning. Removing the gas cap will not allow air to go into the fuel lines and pump air up to the injectors. The only thing that will do with the car running is TRIP THE CEL, for a bad gas cap code.

3. The only way that I am aware of having the injectors cleaned, when you remove them from the car is to have them professionally cleaned at a place that does that kind of thing. That will cost about $90 or so.

Personally, I think you had a different issue other than the fuel pump. When you get things back together, let us know if it starts and we'll go from there.

As for the THING on the RAIL with the vacuum tube on it, I'm almost certain that it is the fuel pressure regulator.
 
  #24  
Old 11-22-2013, 05:42 PM
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Oh, and 200,000 is NOT a lot of miles on one of these cars. Age and poor maintenance may be a factor but these cars are built for the motor and tranny to go 500,000 with proper care. I have over 240,000 on mine and it will toss you back in your seat quick (no mods).
 
  #25  
Old 11-22-2013, 06:08 PM
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  #26  
Old 11-22-2013, 09:09 PM
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Das alot of miles Batman! No surprise. Most cars are as good as their owners.
 
  #27  
Old 11-22-2013, 10:17 PM
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RSPI... your 850 is officially broken in.

I'm a little concerned for you regarding your fuel issue. The problem with fuel is it also burn outside the engine and it ignites quickly. You need to make sure that pump is sealed inside the tank and there are no leaks. Leaks will get you engine code - similar to the cap being off. That ring will lock into positiion when its on correctly. It requires a little coordination to hold everything in place and engage the ring.

When get the pump back together.... Turn the key so the pump comes on but the engine does NOT start. Look for leaks. You should have NO gas leaking anywhere. check around the pump and then check at the fuel raid, the pressure regulator and injectors.

If you have fuel leaking at the injectors its likely leaking at the connnection between the injector and the rail. I think RSPI has a video where he works on the PCV and he describes removing fuel rail and the how the injectors can stick to the fuel rail rather than the engine. If you are leaking there at the injector, fix it right then. the engine gets hot enough to ignite the fuel when its running. That will put a serious damper on driving the car in the future.

Ask questions and request info. Be specific and take pictures if you don't know what stuff is. There are lots of good people here that give lots of help.
 
  #28  
Old 11-23-2013, 08:59 AM
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I did a fuel injector service on mine because I already had everything apart from doing a head gasket and, with 203kmi on a 14 year old car, you don't know how it was treated. I bought this kit: Volvo Fuel Injector Service Repair Kit O Rings Retainer Pintle Filters | eBay
Cheap and easy to do. Unfortunately, not everyone buys quality gas. Some buy the discounted grocery store gas with their "fuel bucks." I don't even buy the 93 octane there... who knows how long its been in their tank.
If you broke the lock ring, here's one for $9.82 & free shipping:
WD Express 225 53068 001 Fuel Tank Lock Ring Seal Genuine Fuel Pump Tank Seal | eBay
Good luck.
 
  #29  
Old 11-23-2013, 10:19 AM
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No disrespect to anyone intended, but at this point the owner of this car has a significant issue. Based on the thread, he has a broken lock ring, some type of seal issue and fuel leaking form the injectors. All of thpose are bad things and can lead to a serious fire.

There are lots of people that can help and given the working of the thread, it would be helpful to get pictures of the various things that are wrong. Sometimes a picture is worth a 1000 words.
 
  #30  
Old 11-23-2013, 09:58 PM
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Well, we're not short on words.

This thread is a prime example of why I don't believe in fixing things that ain't broke. When taking things apart on old cars, there is always the high probability that related things will break.

Hang in there OP, things will come together if you take your time and don't give up.
 
  #31  
Old 11-25-2013, 05:01 PM
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Hey, first thanks to everyone for their input. Every post in here has come welcomely and has helpped me isolate the issue. Sadly however the car did not start.

Yes, I will be procureing a new lock ring. I did do a pressure test before even attempting to start it. I wouldnt even drive it until I knew everything was good to go so a new lock ring will be installed. I did want to see if:

1. The pump primed
2. The car started.

results:
Pump primed! Finally getting somewhere.
Car did not start. It feels like it almost gets there...Like a sensor isn't plugged in.

So the car turns over strongly. I can testify that fuel is being fed to the rail and to the injectors. The injector o-rings were bad so I replaced them. This was why the fuel was spilling out on the rail while I did my first pressure test. This has been fixed.

Fuel is good. Now about spark: Any way to test the coils? Can I arc the coils to a ground to verify current?

Something tells me its a senor related thing at this point. I will post a video tonight!
 
  #32  
Old 11-25-2013, 08:33 PM
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Ok, now that everything is back together, do a compression test. If compression is low, that is likely due to the fact that fuel has washed down the pistons.

You will need to dry out the cylinders, just leave the speak plugs out for a few hours. Once you think the cylinders are dry, pour about 1 ounce in each cylinder, install the spark plugs, and crank the motor until it starts. This may take 30 seconds. Once it starts, it will smoke for a minute or so, burning off oil and gas. Then you should be good to go.

You can ff to 10 minutes:
 
  #33  
Old 11-25-2013, 09:01 PM
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RSPI is talking about pouring 1 oz of oil in each cylinder. It's an old compression boasting trick for worn rings and if the cylinder walls are washed out, it will address that.

If you had a COP issue the engine would throw a code. Did you remove the coil packs? If so, did you number the connectors to the coil?

What all did you do along the way? Coil packs do not need to come out to remove the rail. If you didn't touch them, leave them alone.

RSPI touched on this a while back. Old cars don't like to be messed with. Everything you touch has a risk to breaking. Plastic is old and can crack. I get the feeling you are picking random stuff to try to address the problem.

Look at what you took apart. Taking the rail out means you had to un-couple the high pressure hose and the vacuum hose to the pressure regulator.
- You've replaced all 10 0-rings on the injectors? 2 on each side of the 5 injectors.
- If you had forgotten to replace the high pressure hose you would have fuel pouring into the engine compartment. I suspect you are good with that.
- Did you reconnect the vacuum hose for the pressure regulator? Make sure its a good hose and not cracked or broken.
- Did you get the 40+ psi of fuel pressure (someone mentioned this pressure) on the rail. You need this pressure for the injectors to fire correctly and spray fuel.
- Are you certain each fuel injector electrical connection is clicked in and tight?
- Did you at all loosen the intake manifod bolts? If you did, you have to replace the intake manifold gasket. Don;t mess with it if you didn't touch the manifold.
- Check the vacuum hose on the left side of the manifold to make sure it didn't get broken along the way.
- Check the vacuum hoses coming out of the manifold to make sure they did not get broken while you were working in there. The hoses get hot and dry rotted.
- There are more vacuum hoses near the throttle body as I recall, check to make sure they did not get broken along the way.

Report back what you find.

You
 
  #34  
Old 11-26-2013, 06:18 PM
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Where is the pressure regulator vacuum hose? I see some regulator on the rail but it has no vacuum.

I did not try the oil compression trick. Wanted you guys to see this video.

Video of attempted start as promised. Ok experts...what am I missing!?


http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../enginepic.jpg

 
  #35  
Old 11-26-2013, 07:40 PM
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First the fuel pressure regulator.... Here is a link to see what it looks like. I'm not promoting any company or source, just pointing it out so you can see what it looks like to follow the tubing.
Volvo S70 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Free Shipping - Standard, Bosch, OES Genuine

Regarding the video. The engine sounds like it is starving for fuel. I've played it a couple of times and I sort of feel like I hear a vacuum leak which is a tough call with a video. If it is a vacuum leak its a good sized one to hear like that.

Solve the vacuum source for the pressure regulator. Maybe you can figure it out with RSPI's video on servicing the PCV. He outlines how to take the manifold off which requires the rail to come off - I haven't done it yet so I can't speak to it.
 
  #36  
Old 11-26-2013, 07:44 PM
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where is the fuel pres regulator? is that the round thing attached to the rail on the left?
 
  #37  
Old 11-26-2013, 08:05 PM
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I beleive that is the case. Look in there and you should see a nipple sticking out of it. The fuel line should be plugged into it as well. If you look at the link I gave, you will see the 2 nipples. The bigger one is the fuel side. Take a picture from directly above it and close enough to see it well.

One other thing, test the pressure. Don;t look for pressure at the shreoder valve. Put a fuel pressure guage on it and measure it as it cranks.
 

Last edited by kwatt; 11-26-2013 at 08:21 PM.
  #38  
Old 11-26-2013, 10:09 PM
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Is this the regulator?? it doesn't have a vacuum line. wtf?

https://plus.google.com/photos/11167...87550572801534

https://plus.google.com/photos/11167...87550572801534

also that black thing the injectors are seated in. Well i crasked that POS too. but I did that while I was troubleshooting the starting problems. Is this a pressure vessel with fuel? What is this called? Where can I get this part?
 
  #39  
Old 11-26-2013, 10:15 PM
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Sorry, can't open the pictures
 
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:26 PM
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