New poster here, so please be gentle.

I have a 98 S70 Glt with the LPT.
It has a blown engine, (VADIS says: B5254T).

I also have the engine and complete wiring harness including ECU from a 1996 850-T5 with really low miles. (Vadis says: B5234FT)

What obstacles and problems am I going to have with putting the 850 engine into the S70?

It SEEMS from what I read, I can just swap the engines out as is, and just replace the ECU's.

 

There will be other problems. There is wiring differences between the 850 and S70.

I would look at the motors and if they both have the same parts I would just swap the motors and go from there. If anything it would be an upgrade.

I would put the motor in and use the S70 computer and eventually find a S70 T-5 ECU or have the GLT ECU chipped.

 

Thanks for the response tech!

I was thinking today that I will just drop in the T-5 engine and use the LPT and 98 S70 ECU. Based on what you are saying, that should work right?

 

Just leave the T-5 turbo on the motor and use all the S70 wiring on the motor and S70 ECU.

 

What about the S70 injectors? I heard they are a different size..
Thanks!

 

Use the S70 injectors to match the ECU.

 

Thanks for the answers Tech..

I spent this evening under the hood, working on this project..
As some background, I bought this car with the blown engine. (I didn't fry it!!)
It looks like the engine crankshaft is locked up solid, and the dipstick is caked with burnt oil. So, either the previous owner ran it out of oil, or.. something is plugged up.
My question is this: Would the oil cooler or filter plugging up induce this kind of damage? How can I test and flush the oil cooler (air blower?), and, what warning signs would the engine have shown? The radiator is brand new, and the coolant and tranny fluids are extremely clean and levels good. I am thinking I will use this radiator, but seeing as how it was "involved" in the engine cook-off, it concerns me.

Thanks!

 

My best someone ran it out of oil and fried it.

 

Update on this project?

 

Update:
I have spent the last few months working on this in my "spare" time..

I pulled the blown engine from the S70, and retrieved the 850T engine from the "undisclosed location" where i have had it for the last while.. (ie: "Dad's Garage")
I have gone over both engines and swapped out all the updated/applicable parts from the S70 to the 850T engine. I swapped the knock sensors, Intake Manifold, Air Intake Pipe, Cam Position Sensor, and some various vacuum piping/hoses that were different.. I discovered that it is REALLY helpful to have the two engines sitting side by side.

I did a once over today and I think I am done with "modifying" the 850T engine to fit. I am ready to set it in except now I am looking at the "Preventative Maintenance" side of things. Timing Belt, Water Pump, etc... I might as well do all this while it is sitting out in the open, instead of waiting 6 mo from now when it is in the car. :-) Gosh, somedays I miss my 740 with the non-interference engine.. Run it till it blows..

Hopefully I will know how this whole thing is gonna turn out in a couple weeks... This is what happens when ex-mechanics get bored... We return to our roots.. :-)

Does anybody have any suggestions, things to watch out for etc?

How do you prepare an 850 engine to start up for the first time in 3 years?
It ran great when I shut it down, and it has had all of it's openings plugged since then, but still...

 

Sounds like a fun project. I look forward to doing something similar in the spring. But that is a good point. Is there anything you should do to the motor before it sits for a while and when you start it up for the first time? When I do my motor swap the car will be sitting for a while in between projects.

 

After you have all the fluids in the car and ready to start here is what you do.
Remove the coil wire and crank the car over and watch the oil light on the dash. Crank till it goes out. Then you will know you have good oil pressure. Then connect the coil wire and fire it up.

 

OK...

This project has lasted forever, and it ain't over yet...
But, over the two months or so, I changed the timing belt, water pump, and dropped the engine into the mounts.

2 nights ago, I finished all the connections, and topped off all the fluids.
Last night I got it started, and let it idle until it quit tapping, and warmed up to operating temps. Then after checking all the fluids and looking for leaks, I took it around the block a few times.
At this point it is the quietest 850/s70 i have ever owned.. It absolutely purrs... The computer doesn't seem to have any problems at all controlling the engine, but I won't know about emissions until I get it through the drive cycle.

I was originally concerned the GLT 2.4L computer would have problems getting a T-5 2.3L engine to run... I know the 98 computer is pretty intollerant emissions-wise, so we will see where this goes..

The turbo seems REALLY responsive.. More so that my 97 850GLT.. Why would this be? I would "expect" the GLT ECU would keep the turbo within GLT limits, and not allow it to over-boost to T-5 levels, but this doesn't "seem" to be the case.. Not at first drive at least.. I didn't really jump on it, but I wanted to feel the turbo spool up, and it seemed to come in quicker and with more boost than my other GLT.

Either way, it runs, drives, and has no leaks.. :-)

 

Glad it is running.
Put a boost gauge on it and make sure it is not over boosting.

 

Still haven't had a chance to throw a boost gauge on it.. After driving it for a couple weeks it seem more reasonable in the turbo category, I am just used to a worn out wagon.. :-)
I got temporary tags for it while I try to get it through a drive cycle, but it keeps DTC'ing and giving a light.
So far, all the DTC's have been explainable, bad SAS blower, (Replaced) engine running too lean, (replaced MAF and vacuum elbows).
No CEL now, so I'm running more drive cycles.

Funny story:
I ran a drive cycle first thing Friday morning on a local state highway, and took it right in to the testing center.
Here I am sitting at idle in line with three cars in front of me, and "POOF" goes my heater core. It seriously looked like something out of a movie where the guy gets gassed in his car by the evil villain.. Perfectly white smoke comes pouring out of the AC vents... After about 2 seconds I realize what just happened and shut off the engine.

I spent all day yesterday replacing the core, and now everything seems back to normal.
What I noticed is that the engine cooling fan doesn't want to come on, and the instrument cluster gauge never goes past halfway. I have been reading all my temps from my OBDII tool.
I let the car idle all the way to 200F degrees last night, and the fan never even twitched. I threw a meter on the relay, and it has +13 at the 30A connector, but nothing at the IN(1-2) connectors..

Any ideas there?

What drives the relay? The ECU or a sensor somewhere?
I know I know, get out my wiring diagram and figure it out.. :-)

 

The ECT and ECU turn the fan on.
Also does it come on if the A/C is on?

 

It doesn't come on with the AC compressor..
I think I am low on Freon though because the compressor keeps cycling..
I dont get any in-car indicators though..

OK, so I just looked at the Wiring Diagrams, and guess what, the ECU sends -12v to trip the cooling fan relay.. So I may indeed have a bad relay.. I never checked for -12v.. :-) Something to do tomorrow in all my spare time..

 

Hopefully it goes well.

 

Turns out I must have misconnected the ground point for the engine cooling fan. It showed voltage, but had a really high resistance to ground. I temporarily connected a ground lead directly to the stud on the battery cable, and all is good.. I can't see where the ground lead connects, so I wasn't able to troubleshoot that.. I know it comes out of the loom in the vicinoty of the starter cables, but is it on the engine by the starter, or on that frame member right there?

So, during this whole cooling fan frustration, I installed a new wheel bearing, changed out the wheels/tires, and PASSED EMISSIONS!!!!

I discovered that here in Oregon, 96, 97, and 98 Volvos are considered a problem car from an OBD-II perspective, and are allowed to pass using the tailpipe sniff if the computer shows "some" of the monitors are set.

 

So for the most part you are good to go right?
That is cool.