Engine Temp Gauge Frustration Continues
Before anyone says it, I haven't had this looked at by a MECH yet. So lets not start that.
Inoticed three days ago on the highway my engine temp gauge hadn't budged from ZERO for about 15-20 minutes of driving.
I sped up to pass a semi truck at 70 MPH and I even hit 80 MPH. I miraculously saw the engine temp gauge move all the way to the proper spot. But as soon as I slowed back down to 65MPH or 55MPH it too would go back down. Down to ZERO that is. But as long as I was going 70+ it would be where it should be.
Today on the highway it did the same thing but it would move at about 65mph+ and then back down as soon as you slowed down from that.
I want to know what you guys think it could be. This is really ticking me off. Also it seems I would have not HEAT as well. I had it up to 80 degrees and colder cool air was come out of the vents.
Inoticed three days ago on the highway my engine temp gauge hadn't budged from ZERO for about 15-20 minutes of driving.
I sped up to pass a semi truck at 70 MPH and I even hit 80 MPH. I miraculously saw the engine temp gauge move all the way to the proper spot. But as soon as I slowed back down to 65MPH or 55MPH it too would go back down. Down to ZERO that is. But as long as I was going 70+ it would be where it should be.
Today on the highway it did the same thing but it would move at about 65mph+ and then back down as soon as you slowed down from that.
I want to know what you guys think it could be. This is really ticking me off. Also it seems I would have not HEAT as well. I had it up to 80 degrees and colder cool air was come out of the vents.
Seems like you have a bad sensor of some sort. Check for a loose wire where there is anything plugged into the radiator, near the thermostate housing, etc.
You may also want to hook up your OBD-II code reader and do a live read to check your temp while you think the engine is warm. It should be about 182 degrees F.
You may also want to hook up your OBD-II code reader and do a live read to check your temp while you think the engine is warm. It should be about 182 degrees F.
Last edited by rspi; Jan 31, 2010 at 03:03 PM. Reason: addition
Here's an UPDATE. It snowed over night. So when I got up to leave for work. I went out 20 minutes early. I cleaned the car off and let the car warm up.
1. After about the 15 minute mark the engine temp gauge had moved to close the half way point up the gauge.
2. After a couple minutes of driving it was right back down at ZERO again.
I got my hopes up and then they were dashed. I'm going to have to take it to a shop. I don't have the expertise to purchase those items and install them.
1. After about the 15 minute mark the engine temp gauge had moved to close the half way point up the gauge.
2. After a couple minutes of driving it was right back down at ZERO again.
I got my hopes up and then they were dashed. I'm going to have to take it to a shop. I don't have the expertise to purchase those items and install them.
I'm with tech, bad thermo. Not hard to install at all. If I were you I'd go buy one and try to put it in. If you can't do it, take it somewhere, but give it a shot first. You could take yourself to dinner with the money you'll save.
Like Tech said; bad therm! Those are the classic symptoms.
It really is a simple job; shop should not charge more than an hour labor, but most of us could do it in less than 20 minutes (assuming the therm housing bolts aren't frozen).
It really is a simple job; shop should not charge more than an hour labor, but most of us could do it in less than 20 minutes (assuming the therm housing bolts aren't frozen).
Where the upper radiator hose attaches at the motor is the thermostat housing.
Remove the 2 torxes screws and remove the upper part of the housing and swap the thermostat out.
But you will loose coolant swapping it out.
Remove the 2 torxes screws and remove the upper part of the housing and swap the thermostat out.
But you will loose coolant swapping it out.
yeah... thermostat is an easy job. Only possible hangup: the bolts like to freeze. Use a good quality torx bit to take them out. If a bolt should freeze and strip, vise grips or a chisel around the edge will get it out.
Thanks for the advice guys. But it will just go to a shop to be done. I don't have the tools to do this either and where I live I am not allowed to work on my car in the parking lot and I wont move the car off the property just to fix it myself.
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