Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.

That should be all for under the hood for now.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the E-brake boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control *****.Then under the 2 outer ***** is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug or a yellow plug with a purple tab to release. It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.
Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.

Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.

On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.
When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.

Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evapera

 

Thank goodness I have a dealer.....................If I keep the auto long enough and I have AC issues..................I think I'll go to the dealer! When I was younger I replaced the entire AC in my Hartge.................never again!!!!

 

LOL
But the info is here if someone needs it.

 

Yes, I know.............that is what makes you so very valuable to this forum Tech!!! Some of the younger owners who perhaps do not have the means readily available to go to the dealer have the opportunity...........with your help..............to attempt the repair themselves thereby keeping the dollars in their hip pocket. My Hartge came without air...............it is a light weight model and I decided to put air in it. That was something else!! Everything from the console forward had to be installed! You know what it is like to take the entire dash out I'll bet.

Lastly, congratulations on your new baby!! Did you name him "Tech"?

 

Thanks and I named my Son Gregory Ward!!!

 

Hello, I'm hoping for some advice about replacing the evaporator core in my parents' V70. I read through your very helpful instructions, and I didn't see any mention of re-programming the air bags. The reason I mention this is that the shop that my Dad talked to about replacing the evaporator core said that since the air bags will be disconnected and then reconneted, a Dealer will have to re-program the air bags in order for them to work again. Is this correct?

 

That is not correct.As long as you disconnect the battery first and then reconnect it last you will not have any problems at all.

That is a load of BULL S***.

 

If you just need to remove the dash to fix the dash mounts because of dashboard squeeks, which of the steps mentioned need not be done?

 

No need to remove any of the A/C or heater lines.
Just everything from in the dash and the Bolts that hold the Dash under the Cowl cover.

If you need more specific info let me know and I will point out more for you.

 

Yes, please do. Any additional specific information is very much appreciated. My dashboard squeaks and pops so much that I know the mounts are definitely broken.

Since the dashboard squeak is a prevalent problem with the S70 and similar models, perhaps doing the same step-by-step posting as you did with the Evaporator Replacement article would benefit many.

Thank you for the help!

 

Is this a little better?
https://volvoforums.com/m_29274/tm.htm

 

Better is an understatement. Because of your help is why I have not had the car towed to the junk yard. Again. Thank you!

 

Let me know how the Job goes once it is done.
Some people also use epoxy when making the brackets.

 

Hi, everyone. New to the board.

Tech, as you see in my signature, I have a C70 but I assume the evaporator placement is similar on mine. I had to replace coolant this summer due to lack of cold A/C air. Now, after the engine is warmed up and under light load (i.e. at idle) I get a whining or sighing noise that sounds like it's coming from the evap area as shown in your instructions above. It's very noticeable when I shut the engine off as it will persist for fifteen to twenty seconds as it gradually fades out. Would this require a replacement of the evap? What does a dealer charge for parts & labor (ballpark).

Thanks & I look forward to enjoying the site.

 

That noise usually comes from a Bad Orface tube.
It can be replaced without doing the evaperator.
It is done from under the hood.
The cost for that should be like $100.00 to $150.00

An Evaperator replacement costs about $1200.00

 

Is there a way to check to see if the evap has been replaced? Let me explain...
Bought a car in MA that needs a new evap, dealer has agreed to go 50/50, is there a way that I can "mark it" to make sure they actually did it? Thanks

 

you mention that after you replace the Evaporator, you vacuum out the system for an hour. How do you vacuum out the system for an hour? Is there a special tool?
Thanks

 

There is a best way and an ok way.

I chose the cheaper way.

To do it right, you should rent something like this: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...p;Category=317, attach it to the a/c system and run it to a vacuum and then maintain the vacuum for something like 45 mins or an hour.

The cheaper way is to buy a little vacuum pump that you can hook up to an air compressor, see here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3952. I hooked that up and ran it for about 90 minutes or so (I had other things to do anyway and I questioned the quality of something that was only $16 compared to $100+.

I'll let someone more intelligent tell you if there's anything wrong about doing it my way. One thing that would be good is to have a vacuum gauge that you could attach and make sure you actually have a vacuum on the system. I didn't and just assumed it worked (not very smart, but I've never been known for my smarts, mostly for my stinginess).

 

That is correct.
Or just take it to a shop and have them do it.

 

THIS SYSTEM HAS BEEN SHUT DOWN - I DON'T LIKE FREE STUFF SOMETIMES...

I just posted my pictured from when I replaced my Evap core over a year ago. I did the job myself over a weekend. Click on the link below to see it.


Link to Kodak Gallery Album

I believe everyone can see it, but you have to log in (Kodak Gallery accounts are free www.kodakgallery.com) to actually add comments. Please do add information as I haven't had time to do it all.

BTW: The dealer diagnosis was wrong! After all this, it wasn't the evap core. I just chalk it up to experience. Now, I am not afraid of ANYTHING in that car.