Ok, to start Ill go into the-
Upgrades:
Cold air intake
High flow filter
Vortex Booster
NGK spark plugs

Any thing else? I am looking for cheap perfomance parts, around $150, not parts that will cost $600.

Matinence:
What do I need?
Also, where do i get the wiper blades for the headlights?

Broken:
The motor on the antenna still goes but the antenna itself does not go up and down
Also a some of the interior lights are out - Where do I get those?
and lastly, the wipers need to be replaced on the headlights- Where do I get those?

THANKS!!!

 

no answers at all???? this forum is pretty slow[&:]

 

Yes this forum is slow. You will just have to deal with it.

1. What is your budget?

2. What is your Hp goal?

Answer these questions. You said $150 is that total? Or is that per mod? Please go into further detail.

I seriously suggest you do a full STAGE ZERO. This can be found here, http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/The-V...To-t21017.html
Which is also provided in this link, https://volvoforums.com/m_38606/tm.htm

I would seriously look at the second link I provided you. You will answer a lot of your own questions most likely.

Also is your Volvo turbo or NA? I forget which models are or aren't.

If you are turboed I would suggest getting a boost gauge and a A-pillar pod to mount it in. If your NA I seriously wouldn't go into much engine performance as you wont gain much without spending exstensive amounts of money. Also you bought the wrong brand of car to look for performance parts for. Why you ask? Because nothing for Volvo's is cheap period. Expect to pay a lot of money for Volvo aftermarket parts.

If you are NA I would suggest cosmetic mods and suspension mods.

If you are turboed I would suggest engine mods and suspension mods.

 

What is a Vortex Booster? If it is like that "Tornado" they sell on TV do not buy it. It is a gimic. Please do not buy into the gimics you see on TV and the internet.

Speak to Volvo owners that have experience with real performance parts that actually work.

 

thanks, and sorry for sounding harsh on how slow it is, I am just used to pbnation(paintball forum).
ok, so to get back on topic,
its a 2.4l turbo engine

the vortex booster is on of those cheap metal things you place in either the air intake the makes the air spin, supposedly giving the car better combustion and thus better gas milage?

as for the money, I would like mods that cost around $150(ea, not total) or less, such as a cold air intake or high flow air filter, lights, ect.......

any suggestions? ill take a look at those links

also teh car is going in for a full inspection tmrwbecause it needs it and it seems to only get 13MPG

 

o, and for HP goal, I dont really have any, just want more power and better gas mileage if possible

 

Ok good it is a turbo engine. Too bad that parts are pretty exspensive when it comes to Volvo's.

Secondly DO NOT get that Vortex Booster it is a gimic and is CRAP.

There are no true CAI (Cold Air intakes) for our cars. EuroSportTuning (EST) sells a decent cone filter with a heatshield but it still lets in hot air into the intake system. The OEM intake system is the best setup. I would suggest a OEM paper filter and or getting a K&N panel filter. If you do want the EST intake system it is about $189 plus shipping.

However I would seriously suggest you do a full STAGE ZERO first. This will ensure that your car is up to snuff when it comes to adding new mods. I woulf get SAMCO turbo hoses and or Stylin Motor Inc. ones. I have the Stylin Motors ones for my 1999 s70 awd and love them. I would also get a vaccum line kit from Stylin Motors Inc. Both the turbo hoses by SAMCO and Stylin Motors are Silicone and so are the vaccum lines from Stylin Motors. The STAGE ZERO stuff can be found in that link I put in my previous post.

Also I would suggest a boost/vac gauge. One that can read at least 25 In Hg and 25PSI. Egauge.com is a great source for gauges that are at decent prices. By having a boost gauge you will know what your boosting stock or if you ever up your boost what your boosting at then. It is a great diagnostics tool to have on a turbocharged vehicle. A A-pillar pod can be had from gaugepods.com

A Manual Boost Controller (MBC) could help you out in the boost area too. You can find them for pretty cheap. But don't cheap out and buy a real cheap one go with one that is like $50-$150. You can raise the boost with these and the boost gauge is good to have before this so that when you do raise the boost you can see that you raised it so far. Because if your boosting lets say 5-7PSI stock and with the MBC you raised it to 20PSI and didn't have a boost gauge to actually tell you how much you raised it to you could be and will be in trouble. Because your tiny turbo can't support that much PSI and you could blow something up quickly. So be careful and get the boost gauge first then MBC. And only raise your boost to 10-15PSI max.

As far as lighting goes. Do you mean bulbs or actual lenses? Sylvania Silverstars are not a bad upgrade. They are better then the OEM bulbs. However I woulf suggest a set of HIDs. Get them from SharpHID. They Lifetime Warranty is well worth the $260-$280 price for them. Also get 4300K and or 5000K. Nothing above 6000K ok. They look like crap then.

As far as lenses go you have a few choices...

1. E-code lenses: These are the European version of the U.S. lenses. You can get the turn signals lenses from FCP Groton they are $35 a pop. You can also get the E-code headlight lenses and they are, $65 a pop. The turn signals are clear like these shown below.




The blue you see in the turn signals is the bulb. I was using Sylvania Silverstar bulbs and they are blue, but glow and blink AMBER.

*You can buy E-codes elsewhere but they are way more exspensive.

2. You can buy Jewel headlights that came on the c70 models. I forget which year. They can be bought at VivaPerformance and they look like this.
http://www.vivaperformance.com/catal...roducts_id=157
http://www.vivaperformance.com/catal...products_id=33

They may look the same in each link but one is DOT Spec and the othe ris EURO Spec. And here are the turn signals to match.
http://www.vivaperformance.com/catal...products_id=47

*These are a very exspensive set of lights.

3. Would be the ABM Projector headlights and turn signals. These can be had from DTMwerks, EST, PartsForVolvosOnline and even Ebay. If you are going to look on Ebay type in "Volvo Projector".
A set can be had for just under like $450. They come in Chrome and black.












*Pictures of the white s70 is my car. I had the E-codes and then went to the Projectors.

If you have any questions please post them in this thread.

 

Onto some other items.

A bigger exhaust will give you some ponies.

A 3" mandrel bent downpipe to a 2.5" mandrel bent catback system with do wonders. You will see the most gains from the 3" downpipe. WHy not go full 3"? Because your probably not going to go to a bigger turbo like a 16T. If you did go to a 16T I would suggest a full 3" turboback. Also for a muffler use a Free Flow straight through design muffler. Like a Magnaflow. One of their Race series ones will do the trick. And get a better CAT. Like one from Magnaflow or any Free Flowing performance CAT.

Now the bad news. This upgrade will cost you big bucks. Expect to spend anywhere from $200-$1000 just for a downpipe and expext to spend $300-$1000 just for the catback system. I say this because you can buy premade downpipe from EST, but they are $795 a pop plus shipping and a catback system from EST will frun you like $400-$700. A member of Volvospeed makes great downpipes but he charges $900-$1000 just for the downpipe itsself. A local muffler shop could probably make your whole system of the 3" downpipe mandrel bent to a 2.5" mandrel bent catback system for like $800-$1000 total. Maybe a little less then $800 if your lucky.

*Oh in the previous post of mine you can see the difference between the Silverstars and HID's. I think you can tell which is which.

 

I know somethings I mentioned are over your limit. However I am trying to expand your horizion on what is available and what is good and what isn't good out there.

Basically trying to brace you for the shock. Because owning a Volvo isn't cheap and when you start to mod it, it gets even more expsensive.

I could list what I have done to my car and could give you ballpark prices on how much it cost total.

 

*edit* basically I ahve alittle over $400 dollors to get soem performance and/or stlye parts. I wanted to get a few things but if it jsut one thing that improves the look then so be it. I know $400 is not alot at all, but i was hoping to strech some of it by buying stuff on ebay.

so would you say that ebay is not a good place to buy this stuff off of? for example they ahve the exact smae projector headlights on ebay for around $300, but on euro sport they cost like $600. Is their any reason not to buy from ebay? I ask since I will most likly be buying parts off ebay.
THANK YOU FOR GIVING ME SO MUCH INFORMATION!! I know you prolly have new people coming in all the time and asking teh same stuff over, just wehre I live the only tuner cars are civics, so I have nobody to ask about volvo perfomance.

 

EST strut brace: $175 + shipping
EST Eyebrows: $80 shipped plus $20-$25 to have paint at a local shop.
EST Grille: Bought used for $55 shipped. New they are like $100-$130 or something plus shipping.
Aluminum Lock *****: $35
TurboXS BOV: $125, bought used from a VS member. New they are like $200+
E-codes: $220 shipped from FCP Groton
ABM Projectors/Turn Signals: $450 shipped
HEICO Spoiler Exstentions: $275 shipped on sale from IPD. $220 or so to paint and install.
Apexcone 35W HIDs: $260 shipped
Sylvania Silverstars: $60 for High and Low beams add another $20 for the turn signal bulbs
Tint: $185
Ipod adapter: $75
Autometer Gauges: $150 (Boost/Vac, Oil Pressure and Voltmeter)
A-pillar pod (triple): $55 shipped or so
IPD wheel wrap: $55 shipped or so
SpeedTuning USA ecu upgrade: $265 normally $325
Stylin Motors Inc. Turbo hoses: $128 shipped on a groupbuy normally like $190 something I think.
Stylin Motors Inc. Vaccum lines: $55 or so shipped.
T-bolt clamps: $45 shipped
EST Intake: $160 shipped got on groupbuy normally $189-$190 or so plus shipping.

I am currently running Chrome dipped turn signal bulbs. Which blink and glow AMBER. When off they are not seen. These can be had from AutoLumination. Bulb size 1157

 

very nice, I was wondering if you had those turn signals still? for sale possibly if ya do? also i edited my post before this one.

 

I would buy the projectors off Ebay. That is where I got mine from. However there a re a few people selling the projectors on Ebay. AutoLampsPlus sells them but the turn signals that come with theirs have an orange insert. Unlike what you see mine as. DTMwerks has an Ebay seller. Currently their name is, well they don't have a name right now.

Be careful what you buy from Ebay though on other items. Just be sure and search the forum and search the internet for any and all info.

 

No I sold them awhile back.

 

You could spend $400 just in Stage Zero alone.

Here is my CarDomain website for your viewing pleasure.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2252902

 

If I were you I would save up more so I could do more things before I start buying parts. But that is me.

Oh other good ideas are suspension upgrades.

-Lowering Springs (IPD, EST, H&R, B&G, Weitech cup kit, Intrax, Etc...)
-Strut braces (EST, OMP, OEM Volvo)
-Heavy Duty endlinks. You can get these from IPD but I woulf seriously get them from QBM (QuickBrickMotorSports) they are by far the best endlinks on the market.
-IPD sway bars (Best suspension mod out there for Volvos)

All of these items are $150+.

 

I looked agian at the stage zero but am kinda confused about it. It seems to me to be replacing the old OEM parts with new ones so that the car is runs as good as it can at that stage(OEM)? if so I ahve a seperate $650 for car matinence, such as oil changes, new belts, fixing any leaks, ect. Am I getting what stage 0 is?

 

Yes you are. Stage Zero is basically to get your car up and running to what is should be at. That $650 will be well spent on Stage Zero and you may be able to pick up the Turbo Hoses I mentioned as well with that cash.

Oh BTW you don't have to do this, but you may want to switch over to full synthetic oil if you haven't. I did and it was a good move. Might cost a little more during oil changes but well worth it. Mobil 1.

 

I guess one last question for tonight, what does a strut bar do, I found it on several sites but they seem to only tell what its made out of and other things. But what is its purpose?

 

It is to strengthen the strut towers.

"A strut bar or strut brace is a mostly aftermarket car suspension accessory used in conjunction with MacPherson struts on monocoque or unibody chassis to provide extra strength between the strut towers. With a MacPherson strut suspension system where the spring and shock absorber are combined in the one suspension unit, the entire vertical suspension load is transmitted to the top of the vehicle's strut tower, unlike a double wishbone suspension where the spring and shock absorber may share the load separately. In general terms, a strut tower in a monocoque chassis is a reinforced portion of the inner wheel well and is not necessarily directly connected to the main chassis rails. For this reason there is inherent flex within the strut towers relative to the chassis rails. A strut bar is designed to reduce this strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering via tension and compression of the strut bar which shares the load between both towers and reduces chassis flex. A direct result of this is improved chassis rigidity (similar to that gained from a lower tie bar); hence, the understeer is reduced, tire wear improved and metal fatigue is greatly reduced in the strut tower area. Following the aftermarket's lead, some manufacturers have started fitting strut bars to performance models, including the Nissan Skyline, certain Nissan Sentra models (e.g. Sentra 2.0SE), Mazda RX-8, Acura CL Type-S, BMW e46 M3 CSL, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution and the HOLDEN VY II Commodore, as standard equipment."