I guess the ones I showed you on ebay are "mock" HID's which is why they are direct replacment, and why they are cheap. Only question is, how close to the real thing do they look. The color is supposed to mock the 5000k color temp. Basically ima hold off on some of the other things I had mentioned until I have more money, and teh car is fixed first.
Just gonna get the dvd installed, guage and installation, and the bulbs for the inside, and then the mock HIDs since I kinda wanna c what they look like. And then finish off with the e code headlights.

 

Ok do what you want, but those "MOCK HIDs" are crap. They wont even come close to real HID's. Real HIDs require an HID bulb, Ballasts, ignitors, wiring harness. And the $125 kit from MyDepots and the $260 kit from SharpHID comes with everything you need.

An actual HID kit


4300K in regular reflector housings


Cool Blue halogens vs 50w 6000K reflectors


35w 6000K reflector vs halogen


35w 6000K vs halogen


35w 5000k lowbeam reflector housing


*All of these are from the SharpHID wesbite.

 

Here is my actual wrietup for how to install the HID's.

Tools needed:
1. Drill
2. 1" drill bit to drill the hole in the back of the LOW beam housing cap.
3. The HID kit of your choice
-------------------------------------------------

1. Open your hood

2. Remove the black cap that is ont he back of the LOW beam housing part.

3. Take the drill with the 1" drill bit and drill directly in the center of the black cap. The plastic is thin so it will take no time at all to drill through.

Do this to both drivers and passenger side caps.

4. Attach your ballasts. For the drivers side I attached mine to the battery. Double sided tape works great and ziptie it for extra security.

For the passenger side I attached it to the ECU box and used another ziptie for extra security.

5. DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT touch the HID bulbs. This is a big no no. If you do you will be buying new ones.

6. Now take the OEM bulb out of each bulb holder and remove the wiring harness that is attached to each bulb.

7. Now take the HID bulb and associated wires. They are all attached so you don't have to worry about messing things up. Feed the wires through the hole in the black cap. Doesn't mattter which side you do first. Now put the rubber gromet through the hole creating a leak prove seal.

8. Now put the HID bulb into the headlight housing. And put the clip back on to hold it in place.

9. Now you will see two wire with prongs on them. A black and red wire. The black wire goes into the brown side of the wiring harness you pulled off the bulb. The red wire plugs into the yellow side of that same wiring harness. Now plug all the other associated wires that were attached to the bulb to the ballasts wires.

10. No turn your car on and see if they work. If they do you know you did it right. If they don't then you probably mixed the black and red wires up or forgot to plug in another wire somewhere.

11. Now follow these steps to do the other side.

And you have HIDs!!!

In all one side could be done in 15-30 minutes. So about 30 minutes to an hour to do the whole thing. Give your self some more time then you need. Be careful.

*And here are some links to some other writeups. http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...=68107&hl=

 

ah ic, well maybe ill save my money for the real HID's, just get them later one.

 

Good idea. Just save up for them. Why spend money on something that wont even come close to HIDs.

 

so i guess the only outstanding thing is the guage debate. I really like teh ones that glow, and although you say autometer is better, how so? more accurate or ......? dunno, basically I am looking for an ok guage that will do its job fairly well, I porlly wont be doing any engine modding until I have more money. But the guage would jsut be useful to ahve anyways to make sure the turbo is running right, since teh car has alot of miles.

 

I am not a fan of NASCAR by any means, but they use Autometer gauges in their cars. Autometers in general are very good gauges and they are decently priced too. I mean mine goes for $46.00 which is much less then the GlowShift gauge you linked me to.

 

the glowshift was $29 the Prostar was $59, one other thing to consider is that the interior of my car is black, so a black guage would look nicer thatna white one IMO, yours is tan (correct?) so white would be a better fit. The only black autometers I found were much mroe exspensive. Also how is yours lit? is says reflective lighting?

 

Mine is back lit. Little light in the back with a green light condom on it.

Black ($45.85)
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?T...mp;PN=ATM-3303

Black gauges II
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult3.asp...es&Units=E

Black gauges III
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult3.asp...mp&Units=E
However they don't have one that measure 30In Hg and 30PSI, but they do have one that measure 30 In Hg and 20PSI which is ok.

 

-*-out of town until the 15th-*-

 

have some more small q's. I need to replace the fog light bulbs (h3's?) back licence plate bulbs, one bulb on teh interior over the drivers side door, and lastly the the light bulb for the automatic shift. what sizes are these, or where can I get them? I look on several sites but not seem to have teh 2.4l turbo model??? Dunno what happened to that. they all have the 2.3l turbo and 2.5l non turbo but never ahve my exact car

 

Any local autoparts store should be able to hook you up and really it shouldn't matter if it is a 2.3 or a 2.4.

http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...RG-Results.htm

 

Once you figure out what bulbs you need just go to a local autoparts store and purchase them and or go online to AutoLumination.com
and or order from there.

 

thanks a ton, that guide is exactly what I needed.

 

well I have another one for ya. The alarm hown does not sound anymore. It goes and you hear it squel on an off, but the part that makes/produces the noise has fallen off. I can gets pics if needed. But basiclly the part that makes teh noice when you car alarm goes off tries to make it but its missing one of the parts. Know any place to get that or should I hit up a junk yard?

 

Sorry don't know and I would suggest a junk yard and or Volvo themself.

 

ok, so I just got my boost gauge, and my question is where did you get the wires through the firewall? pics would be helpful if you have the time. Its an electronic guage so I only need room for electrical wires. I know theri is several spots to choose from, but I dont know which one is most efficient.

 

You still need to run a vaccum line so you can read vaccum and boost. Not just electrical wires.

There is a passthrough on the drivers side of the firewall. It looks like a black rubber gasket.

Also what boost gauge did you get?

 

This one doesnt need the vac line to run through either, it all gets connected to a sensor that I you mount in the engine. Then from the sensor I you the wires to the guage. Unless I am mistaken and teh vac line goes somwhere else, but their is no plug for it on the gauge. I decided to go with prosport performance gauges(only one though) Looks like this:

 

Please take a picture of all the items that came with it.

I GOOGLED it and it says it comes with a tubing kit which is for the vaccum lines.

Ugh I don't see any vaccum line hook ups on there. I wonder how accurate it is going to be really. IMO you bought the wrong boost gauge.