Hi there, I'm new to the forum. I recently took my 98 S70 to get inspected, but it failed because the onboard systems were "not ready" and couldn't be tested. I had jumped the battery a few weeks prior, then didn't drive it for almost 10 days before the week I got it inspected, and also changed a headlight. The inspector guy told me a number of these things could cause my computer to not reset, and suggested I drive the car every day for a week and take it back to get inspected. Does this sound right? Or is it possible that there's a larger issue and I should go to the shop? I'd really not like to fail my inspection again.

Also, is there a way to turn off the service light? It comes on every 10,000 miles or so, but only for a minute when I first turn the car on. I heard that only dealers can do that but maybe there's another answer out there.

 

In order to get your onboard systems "ready", you usually have to drive a lot of miles and drive over 55 mph for a period of time.
(I am almost positive this is what you would do, I am somewhat new to the emission inspections so forgive me if I'm completely wrong)

For the service light:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7246730_rese...volvo-s70.html

 

My experience is that it takes just a few hours and especially varied conditions to reset the computer fully, including start cycles. Vary your conditions, do multiple starts, and get at least ten to fifteen minutes freeway time. Service interval is 7500 (as is the light), turn switch to first stop, press/hold the odometer reset then turn switcht to second stop and hold for a few seconds. At some point the service light should stop blinking and you're done.

 

Ah, the bane of all '98 S70 owners.
Several things;
What code is it throwing? Evap codes common, lots of leaky vacuum hoses on cars this old.
Unofficial method to reset codes is to diconnect battery and hold horn button to dicharge remaining memory in system. Never tried it myself.
Official Volvo method is below. Repeat three times on a cold start each time. Then without turning engine off get car to dealer for final reset.
Affected vehicles:
Motronic 4.4, equipped with an automatic transmission
Motronic 4.3, equipped with an automatic transmission

OBD II Readiness Codes: Revised Reset Instructions

Background

The MY 1996, 1997 and 1998 Volvo 850/S70/V70/C70s require an extended
driving period in order to reset readiness codes from INCOMPLETE to
COMPLETE. When verifying an emission related repair, the TRIP identified
in Section K of the Engine Management System Service Manual TP
2308202 M 4.4 or Section EBU of the Engine Management System Service
Manual TP 2301202 M 4.3 may not allow all of the diagnostic monitors to
run.

The following instructions, which supersede TRIP instructions contained
in the above referenced service manual, will exercise all of the
diagnostic monitors on these s. As long as no diagnostic trouble
codes have been stored, the readiness codes will be set to COMPLETE upon
completion of two consecutive trips driven according to the
instructions.

Introduction 1

This on-road driving sequence will allow all of the diagnostic functions
an opportunity to run. After two correct, consecutive TRIPS, the
readiness codes should be set to COMPLETE, provided no diagnostic
trouble codes have been stored.

General Instructions 2

Engine temperature at start must be below +50°C (122°F).

Air conditioning (A/C) must be off during idle periods. A/C compressor
activation during the Evap diagnostic may interrupt the Evap test.

Select a suitable route where it is possible to safely stop at the side
of the road. Obey all traffic regulations and posted speed limits.

Trip Instructions 3

^ Start engine

^ Move gear selector to Drive

^ Accelerate gently to 1500 - 2000 rpm

^ Drive for 6 minutes at 1500 - 2000 rpm

^ Safely stop the car and idle engine for 70 seconds with Drive engaged

^ Accelerate to 1600 - 2000 rpm

^ Drive for 6 minutes at 1600 - 2000 rpm

^ Stop the car and idle engine for 70 seconds with drive engaged

^ Accelerate to at least 45 mph, drive for 5 minutes at 1800 - 2200 rpm

^ Stop the car and idle engine for 60 seconds with Drive engaged

^ Accelerate to at least 45 mph, drive for 4 minutes at 1800 - 2200 rpm

^ Stop the car and idle engine for 60 seconds with Drive engaged

^ Drive the car to the location where it will be parked

^ Move gear selector to Park

^ Stop engine Finished

 

Thanks for the responses. The code I got at the inspection was something along the lines of the systems being "not ready". Based on what I've seen here and what I've heard from others, I think I'll just drive it at varying intervals and speeds today. Thanks!

 

BTW, can those SERVICE LIGHT RESET instructions actually work on the '98 models? I do NOT think they do. Only on the '99 & 2000 models.

Please advise. I'd like to clear the Service Req light on our '98 S70.

 

I have learned to do the above sequence and it resets the Evap codes I get about once a year(Grrrrr). To be honest I haven't tried to reset a service engine code as I stopped doing my own oil changes in 1998 and the mechanic I use resets it.

 

stupid question,just picked up a 1998 s70 gt as a DD. in error i put reg unleaded(87) in the car, not realizing 91 was required. within 20 miles I got a check engine light p0171, bank 1 . since there is no way to tell if the used dealer had the same issue and just reset the computer is a good assumption that its a result of the lower octane fuel. Thanks

 

You're right. I have a 98 and have tried that and has not worked. A regular OBD II code reader won't do it either. FCP groton sells a reset tool, but it cost 169.00. Don't care enough to spend that kind of money.

Maybe remove the dash and take out the light so it never comes on? I don't want to go to that trouble either.

 

Really shouldn't respond to this since you're hijacking this thread, but putting regular gas in the car should not set a code. It will not have optimum pwr but should run fine on regular; mid-grade is better long term..

 

That tool would be nice to have but I agree, $170 is a lot just to reset a light. I'd have to go around town resetting those things to get my money out of it.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ice+Reset+Tool

I seen a few on eBay but I would be afraid that they wouldn't work. I don't mind the light, just wish that was simple for the diyer since you can service your car yourself. Engineers suck sometimes.

 

To ditto all, no, those instructions to turn off the service light do not work.

However, driving many miles at varying speeds and turning the engine on and off has reset my computer. I used a OBD tool from Black and Decker to test, and it showed me all was well.

 

Just to expound on the problem a bit - there is more than just setting the light to "Off". The on board computer will have to "talk" to a state owned computer and the dialog is more than just "Is the light off?". At least it's that way in Texas.

 

I have a 2000 and the above instructions did work.

 

Okay... we seem to have several sets of questions going on here. The first is about the "check engine" light, and the 8 I/M monitors that are checked when a car goes for an emissions test. The I/M monitors are all reset to "incomplete" when you clear codes, disconnect the battery, or otherwise do something that causes the computer to lose its keep- alive memory. (why automakers haven't discovered flash memory yet is beyond me) Most modern emissions tests, aside from the really strict ones like CA has, simply involve checking those I/M monitors to see if they passed, since any OBD-II car does its own emissions check every time you drive. If you've just done any service work on your car that involved resetting codes or disconnecting the battery, those I/M monitors won't be complete, and you'll fail your test. The above drive cycle will usually allow the car to complete its tests so you can pass the smog check, provided that nothing else is wrong.

As for the other question, regarding the "Service" light that comes on for 2 minutes when you start your car, that is merely a maintenance reminder that comes on after a timer tells it to, either in 5,000 miles (turbo models) or 10,000 miles (non- turbo models) This light won't cause your car to fail an e- check, or if it does, explain to the doofus doing the testing that that's a maintenance reminder, NOT the check engine light. OBD-II rules require very specific wording for that light, known as a "malfunction indicator lamp." that light must either read "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon." Or it can have an "engine" icon with the word "Check." But the "Service" light is not a malfunction indicator, and won't cause your car to fail emissions testing.

As for resetting the light, 1993-1995 Volvo 850s had a procedure that you could use to reset it yourself via the diagnostic connectors under the hood. In 1996, Volvo eliminated that connector, though the software for it is actually still there. It's basically a computer without the keyboard. in 1998, Volvo refreshed the 850 and renamed it to "S70." Our cars supposedly STILL have the software part encoded in the computers, but still no way to reset the service light exists without either a reset- capable scanner or a special reset tool that generally sells for $150- $175. In 1999, Volvo completely redesigned the electronics on their cars, adding the infamous ETM throttle body, enabling the vehicles to have their software updated via "downloads," among other things. When they did this, they added the ability to reset the service light via the trip odometer reset button. Supposedly, some 96 and 97 850s have this ability, too- I think it's the base models without the electronic cluster. But no 1998 models have this ability. You either have to have the tool, know someone who does, see the dealer, or deal with the light being on for 2 minutes every drive.

 

I drove my 98 V70 (great car) over a 1000 miles without N/A going to OK on my OBD ll. I used the driving cycle above, one time, (and not perfectly) And tomorrow morning I am getting my car inspected. Its OK not N/A anymore. Thanks!

 

you are an ***.

 

Gosh Harv, I'm not sure to respond to you verbose reply to something I posted 3 years ago. I assume that blisters on your right hand prevented you from engaging in your usual "date night" activity and so you were looking up old posts. While I do pity anyone that lonely and usually encourage them to try on-line dating services (the one's that let you post fake pictures of yourself), however I'm sure that you've struck out there as well as most Craigslist Personals.

I'm afraid I can't help with your personality issues but if you are indeed having issues with resetting the 'Check Engine" light I still may be able to help. Is it just SOME of the words you are having difficulty with or do you need me to give you new instructions using only one syllable words?

The instructions themselves are available online but I posted them where I did because new S70 owners frequently have problems and - since I've followed those same instructions several times myself - I was trying to help someone. You know - like you were.

 

What the hell is your problem? You drag up a 3 year old post to insult someone who posted useful information, then get pissed at them?

Then in your other thread, you bitch and moan when rspi tries to help you.

**** off. Good luck getting any help.

 

so, you think this is a serious post about how to reset that system in question. From some of the responses I've been getting from some of the serious questions I've been asking, I see something like "drive the car for a while, put it it park, then, drive it again to your destination, then park it".....

MY problem with some the posts here is that people are making fun of others who have just become a Volvo owner. Yeah, I read this 3 year old post, and I've also been attacked by the "moderator" of this site.

You wonder why I bitch and moan. I want HONEST answers to REAL questions....

I'm not going on a snipe hunt.