Just bought a 99 S70 sedan, It has about 195k miles on it. Drove fine all day, No issues. Went into walmart, Got some oil and new headlight bulbs.. Installed the lights and put the oil in.... Tried to start, and it wouldn't... and when it finally did, I didn't have any throttle, And it kept surging. When it would idle, It was almost like it was missing.... I could give it throttle, But it would barely go above 2k RPMs.

If I turn it off, and then turn it back on.. First try, It stalls... Start it up again, It revs (ON IT'S OWN) to about 3k RPMs.. Then drops down, Sometimes it'll rough idle like it's missing, Other time it just sits there and surges up and down... I push the pedal, and it'll rev a tiny bit then go back to surging.

What's the problem?

 

Does it have a check engine light? That would be the best place to start.

You may have a gross air leak, maybe a intake hose came loose or something. Check there then the codes.

 

No, no check engine light or other dummy lights on. Which baffles me

 

Well, Heres where it gets real weird.... I tried starting it today after it sat all night long... And it started up just fine! Idled fine, Revved fine and everything! So I let it run for abit... Came back outside.... Yep, Sure enough... idling rough, Surging, and not revving past 3k RPMs.

So I checked for air leaks, It had a few... Fixed those, Cleaned the sensor in the air box and in the air intake hose, Unhooked the battery for a while.... (This was after it sat for a while again) and it started up just fine again, revved fine, idled fine.... then I guess once it "warmed up" it started idling really rough and not revving like it should.


EDIT: I don't think my CEL even works. Because I noticed whenever I turn the car on, Usually they come on as a test.. but mine doesn't, My winter mode light doesn't work either...

 

Sounds like you need to get the car scanned for codes so you will know what is going on with it. Then replace the bulb in your cluster, CEL.

 

I don't have a Autozone or anything in my small town in Montana. Just a Car Quest... Don't know if they do scans.

Is that port under the centre console the scan port?

 

Well, I cleaned the MAF again, And cleaned the ETM really good.... Seems to be running fine now, It does dip low in RPMs at times, but other then that it works fine. Going to change my plugs next.

 

okay I thought it was fixed. And for the most part it is, It does drive and stuff, But the throttle doesn't seem to be as responsive as it should be. and then at one point while driving the Cruise kicked off, wouldn't turn back on and the throttle would barely work. So I went and got the codes. I'll list them here

P0740. Torque Converted clutch circuit open

P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 circuit high

P0102 - Mass or Volume air flow circuit low input

P0135 - o2 Sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor one

P1017 - ECM-900E Engine Control Module (ECM) Internal fault

P0722 (Twice) Output Speed Sensor Circuit no signal

P1027 (Twice) ECM-9150 Throttle Unit, Internal fault

P0135 - o2 Sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1


Those are all the codes that were pulled.

 

ECM-9150 is a throttle "death code". Needs a new or rebuilt throttle to start with.

 

Well, I was gonna buy a rebuilt ETM from that xemodex place.

 

I was also looking into ETMs from eBay. Anyone ever had any luck with these? Or should I stay away from them? Theres a local Volvo dealer that can do programming for a good price. Not sure if I should just bite the bullet and get a ETM from XeModeX or not.

 

I have read good things about XeModeX, I would try them.

 

Hi Slicer89, So did you end up buying that Xemodex rebuilt ETM? I'm having the same issue and trying to figure out if my extremely rough idle is caused by a faulty MAF or a faulty ETM.... please help! Did the replacement ETM resolve the issues with your car?

Thanks in advance

 

I ended up buying a XeModeX ETM, But that didn't fix my problem. Seemed to make it worse... Going to contact XeModeX soon, Because I need my car.

I would try cleaning your ETM, MAF and changing your plugs, As well as resetting the the computer (Disconnecting the battery, And turning the car on to completely drain everything)

I would also have the codes ran.

If you get:

P1017 - ECM-900E Engine Control Module (ECM) Internal fault

Or / and

P1027 (Twice) ECM-9150 Throttle Unit, Internal fault

you've got an ETM problem. If your MAF is bad, or messed up... The code (Well, The code I got) is.

P0102 - Mass or Volume air flow circuit low input

GET THEM CODES! They will help ALOT.

 

Sorry to read that was not your problem.

 

Well, It's been boiled down to my MAF sensor or a vacuum leak.

Would a MAF sensor cause alot of issues?

 

Yes, usually you can unplug one and get a different symptom.

 

Well, When I unplugged mine it didn't really seem to change much.

 

I am curious how everone cleans the MAF. The wire is very fine. I've heard people have cleaned them with turpentine and then alcohol. The chemical cleaners leave deposits on the MAF which causes them to read incorrectly. Just food for thought.

Also, I personally do not believe in spraying carb cleaner into the engine. Carb cleaner has residual effects, including the catalytic converter. Just stuff i've read, not experienced.

 

I was told to use electronic contact cleaner. But, That probably screwed mine up just as carb cleaner.

Where is the Engine management relay? and is it something that can be cleaned, or does it have to be replaced?