Good day and thanks in advance for taking the time to read this, hopefully you'll find something you can use.

I have a 2000 Volvo S70 that was having issues and through research I deemed to the issues to be involved with the ABS module (engine/abs light flickering etc.). I sent the module out to Modulemasters and they sent it back seven days later. I installed the module and went to start the car with neg results. No issues with the starting system prior to this. I tried to jump the car with neg results. I switched the battery with a known good battery with neg results. I can hear the starter solenoid click, the starter will not turn, and I can hear fuel pump come on. Is there a way to test the starter? The car will not start so I have no ability to get the DTCs from the ECM. I have plenty of tools, but no money so any assistance in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

 

Did you test for power to the small wire on the starter while trying to crank it over?

 

Tech:
Thanks for responding. I read your test about the small wire yesterday, my issue is that I cannot find the small wire. The positive lead from the battery has one thick red and another set of four small red wires bundled together. The large red goes from the battery to the starter and then to the alternator. The bundle of small red wires trails off. I could not find a small red wire going to the starter. I did use my multimeter to check for power going to the big red wire at the starter and I got the same voltage as the battery in all key positions. Considering that it is connected to the battery I expected this and I'm assuming this is not the wire I'm looking for. Is the small red wire connected to the solenoid or something. Could you provide more direction on its location? Thank you sir for your time.

 

There is a small wire that goes to the solenoid It might not be red. It has a spade terminal where it attaches to the starter solenoid.

 

Tech, thanks for the info. I was looking at it today and the starter is fine. I disconnected the green small wire going to the solenoid and got it to turn over no problem by jumping power from the connection to the battery with the green small wire disconnected. So here's the question, can the neutral safety switch be causing my problem? If so, where the heck is it? I tried moving the shifter in neutral to get it to start with neg results. I moved the shifter to all locations several times and watched it under the hood go through all positions. Still no start. Also, the manual for the car and the main fuse panel cover show conflicting information. The manual says I have a starter relay, and gives a location in the main fuse panel under the hood. There is a relay there, but the main fuse panel cover says this relay is the air pump. The main fuse panel cover does say there is a starter relay, but the diagram on the cover corresponds to a location that does not have a relay in it. I did not feel the relay "click" while my wife turned the key. Your help is appreciated Tech.

 

Yes the neutral safety switch will cause that issue.
It is located on the top of the transmission. The sensor slides over the selector shaft.
This is what it looks like.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/208

 

Ok, here's the latest. I turned the key switch to the start position and then jumped the starter and the engine caught and started (woohoo). I looked at the dash board and the "W" Mode light (up arrow) was flashing and the check engine light was on. Also, I can't recall if it's supposed to be or not, but the "W" switch behind the shifter is lit up. It's not bright, just lit so I don't know if there is a difference. I don;t know what the codes are. Does the fact the engine catches mean that the neutral switch or the key switch is faulty? Both components do the same thing. I am so far from being an electrician it's not even funny. Not only that, but I think my wife is going to murder me if I don't get this thing fixed soon. Again thanks for your assistance.

 

I'll agree with Tech... sounds like the neutral safety switch. That will also cause the transmission light to flash, as that same part also tells the computer what gear you're in. Get codes pulled, but I'll bet that's your problem.

 

Will the ECM show a code for the neutral safety switch failure?

 

No it usually only shows in the tranny module.

 

Ok guys. I finally have my new safety switch on hand. I have been digging into this for the last hour and I am stuck. Does anyone (Tech) know how to remove the switch 7 or 8 prong connector from the body that has the other connectors?I have not even gotten to the switch yet, I am just trying to romve the switch wires from the mass conflagration of other wires. I have a picture of it, but I can't figure out how to attach it to this thread.

 

It is a pain to get the wiring out of the housing. If you look closely at the back of the housing with a flashlight you will see there is a little tab. I use a small screwdriver and slide it in there and move the tab. But at the same time on the other side I have a pair of needle nose visegrips locked on there. I pull up on the visegrips and move the tab and eventually it will slide up and out.

Also before trying to slide it apart make sure you cut the 2 wire ties around the wiring going in.

 

I replaced the neutral switch with negative results. Am I looking at replacing the ignition switch now? I found one at FCP at the link below. Btw, how is FCP when it comes to returning parts? Ever tried? http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/199

 

Tech, I forgot to mention earlier that I appreciated your quick response to my switch removal question on Saturday. I was getting pretty frustrated. I saw that tab in the back and had tried your described method already, but was weary about applying too much force and breaking something. Now on to the next issue I guess.

 

Your welcome. FCP is a good parts place to buy from.