Well, I've put 3000 miles on my 98 S-70. It's about to roll 200k probably around the beginning of next week.

Did my first oil change on it last night. Topped off the other fluids at the same time.

The Transmission fluid was within the lines on the "cold" side of the dipstick. The car had been parked/off for 2 hours or so, so I think that's ok. It was running in park when I checked it. However, when I wiped it on a paper towel, the fluid was a transparent grey-ish color. Looked just like the fluid on my jeep when that started having torque converter lockup issues around 205k. In the jeep I did a full flush and had no more issues.

The Volvo is still going great. No issues with slipping, hard shifts, or TC lockup. The fluid concerns me a little though, and I should be doing something about it soon. But some people say don't do a full flush on a high mileage car, because the cleaning agents will end up wiping out the tranny shortly after. On the other hand, if I only drop the pan and replace the filter and whatever fluid is in there, the new fluid I put in will be diluted with whatever crap fluid is left in the torque converter.

My jeep turned out fine after flushing all the fluid, but I just wanted some opinions and maybe first-hand experience on how a Volvo may react. Should I have it flushed or just drain the pan? Also what type of fluid does it take, and how much?

On a second thought, I've only been under it once, and didn't pay attention to how much of a job it is to drop the pan.

 

You are better off (safer) doing a series of drain and fills. Just drain and refill the transmission, drive it at least a couple of hundred miles, and do it over again until the fluid looks clean and red. It usually takes 3 drain and fills to get the color back to looking new. As far as time goes, I often just wait until the next engine oil change.

My cars with automatics always shift smoother after I change the fluid.

...Lee

 

The cost of that would exceed the cost of a flush. How is it more beneficial?

 

Do you want small particles gumming up the valve body? Go ahead and flush.

 

The trick is to not shock the tranny. Also, they don't have a pan and filter. When you pull the drian plug almost 4 quarts will come out. Fill it back up with 3.75 quarts. Do that 3 times and you'll have a 87.5% fluid change out. I usually drive between 50 and 100 miles between drains.

As for checking the fluid level, only do that what a warm tranny and after shifting through the gears like the owners manual states. Oh, before I forget, buying 3 gallons of fluid will be a lot cheaper than 2 gallons and a new tranny.

 

My (12th) Volvo has a similar issue, however for it's (1999 S70 T-5) engine, which has 110K miles, and while all other fluids have been replaced on a regular basis since I've owned it, I've been extremely hesitant to change out the tranny fluid for the same reasons indicated above - I've heard both sides of the story, (Don't change it out at all until there are some known issues, which seems rather odd/dumb, or to change it out all at once, which also gives the argument that it will shock it, and that the "newer" fluids actually can be almost corrosive and cause futher problems for the older model transmisions), so assuming that it's not an issue having high mileage or not, my tranny still is, (technically/physically) 13+ years old, it does sound much "safer" to not "shock" the system, and to transition it slowly.....

My tranny shifts fine and there are no other known issues, no foul odor, and the color is not perfect, but not bad either, (still transparent enough), so I am trying to avoid potential problems "down the road", (I know, bad pun there)....

I've had "her" for approx 5 years, and 45K miles - I do not know if she had a tranny fluid change before I got her, but I know I've not done it myself.........advice? To change out the fluid, (gradually,or not), w/my lower mileage Volvo? Do the earlier answers here pretty much apply (in general) to the Volvo brand overall particularly for the older model years? (ie. to gradually change it out)?

Thanks as always - everyone here rocks! Have a nice holiday season....

 

I don't have the factory owner's manual. What exactly is the proper process to check the fluid? On most vehicles I'd do it after driving, with the tranny in park or neutral. But I noticed the Volvo had a "cold" side of the dipstick.

 

Deep fried ice, anyone?

The gold standard treatment for tranny fluid is to install a Magnefine filter. You can do this before, after or during either a full fluid replacement or a series of drain and fills. You want to get the ferrous (and other) particles out of the fluid that will cause problems with the various electromechanical components inside the tranny.

 

Proper way to do a flush on a Volvo is as follows:

Recommend two people to do this, but not hard to do it yourself if you are quick on your feet.

Remove the upper trans-cooler line

Have 1 case of 12 of the required type fluid. Have a 5 gallon bucket, or a large semi transparent container that is marked off in quarts (Recommend you set it up first measuring out with water and marking yourself.)

have about 2 feet maybe a bit more of 7/16 hose, any type will do. My setup I have a price of clear vinyl tube so I can see the fluids color. And a hose clamp.

With the upper transcooler line removed, attach your 7/16 hose and secure with hose clamp. (on some models you need to remove the o-rings -- don't loose them)

Drape hose over front nose of the bumper of the Volvo into your catch container.

Have a long funnel in the dipstick tube and new fluid ready with the lids off.

Start the Volvo in park and let the run.

Begin to right away start adding the fluid to the transmission. Keep track of how much is going in and how much is going out. When you start getting "spurts" like with air coming out of the hose going into the bucket. TURN THE CAR OFF. Look at how much according to the measurements you made in the catch container and how much you actually put in. With the car off, add back the difference into the transmission to that which came out.

Start the car back up and continue until you start getting "spurting". I mark 10 quarts off in my container and STOP their. Leaving 2 quarts left over just in case it is low after driving it and checking it.

If you notice the fluid as you are progressing along with the flush you will notice it change to the color of the new fluid what is coming out.

Whole process takes less than 30 minutes.

I need to do my Volvo in the next few weeks and I can provide detailed pictures and a write-up.

 

You can view your manual here:
Volvo Owners' Manuals | Owners' Manuals | Your Volvo | Top Navigation | www.volvocars.com/us

Here are the instructions:
1995 Volvo 850

 

Does the hose or tubing need to be attached to the radiator or transmission line?

I read somewhere that the newer cars pump the fluid in reverse.

 

that may be, forgot year of the switch...no biggie, just use the lower line. hose on cooler line.

yesterday I did the flush on mine. it was getting dark, so didn't have time to snap pictures, or make a video. Took all but 10 minutes.

 

I followed this advise on 12-29-12 on my 2002 V70 basic with 214,000 miles on it, JW 3309 trans fluild, took about 30 minutes total, transmission use to slip into gear once in a while, now it works great.

 

what about synthetic fluids?? anyone get involved with that??

 

Yes a few use synthetic.

 

Great thread. Thanks.

 

MattS70
Not sure what you're talking about with that one. They cost about the same and both are beneficial because they get new fluid in there. I'm partial to the DIY flush as I believe it pushes out the oil fluid and replaces it better with the new rather than draining and dumping in 3+ quarts and mixing it with the other dirty 6 and then doing it two more times.

I'm not talking about a quick lube flush, stay away from those !!!

Three drain and fills will use roughly 10-11 quarts

Doing a flush myself I used close to 12 but my fluid started out black and was wonderfully pink when I finished. I did mine at about 270 and I'm pushing 300K now.