DOES anyone know where that line goes, I am looking at it,I can,t see where to plug it,it seems to go somewhere around the distributor cap.

a picture would be perfect if anyone knows.

 

Where by the fuel rail is it attached?

 

It,s quite long,it,s attached on the left side if standing in front of car,and going all the way somewhere under the distributor cap.

S70 1998 nonturbo

 

Does it attach to the fuel pressure regulator or the intake itself?

 

not to the regulator,it somewhere a little further left under the rail,connected to the engine block itself.

 

That might be the Vent box hose which should end up connecting to the intake manifold somewhere.

 

What happens if this hose is rotted (from the flame trap), and rather than pulling the intake, you leave the blasted thing completely off.......especially since the car seems to run just fine without it??? (now, I didn't say I did that....but, ah, I did that...unless you are going to tell me that I absolutely MUST pull the intake and replace it...grrrrr!) Thanks!

 

It need something connected for the vent system to work properly.

But what you can do is remove the hose from the side of the intake and put a cap on the intake.
Then run a hose from the vacuum tree to the flame trap and call it a day.

 

OK..thanks tech!! Now....(pardon my extreme ignorance here)....this mess all occured when I replaced the hose from the new MAF to the intake, where it attached at the bottom (where the flame trap is located). So..I guess what I am saying is, right now there are NO lines going from the flame trap...they both were a rotted mess that just fell apart when I removed the flame trap. I put it back on, but the little hose that goes under the rail (the one we were discussing) is not on, nor the other one. So....in layman's terms, can you tell me (again-sorry) what to do, as I do not understand the "vacuum tree" terminology. Sorry to bug ya..but you always help so much! Thanks!

 

The vacuum tree is the black plastic part on the intake manifold that all the small vacuum lines connect to. There should be a few ports that just have caps on them. Pull the cap off and run a new hose from the vacuum tree to the small port on the flame tap.
Then you will need to make something to join the big hose back to the flame trap as well.

The motor needs to vent properly. Also on the end of the intake by the power steering pump is where the other end of the small hose connects to. Remove that hose and put a cap on it. Then the system will function normally again.

With everything disconnected like it is you have a vacuum leak which can throw a check engine light with codes like a MAF or O2 sensor.

 

OK...got it! Thanks SO much!! You all are lifesavers!!

 

Let us know how you make out.

 

Thanks Tech...I will get it taken care of and let you know how it comes out. In the meantime, other than throwing the check engine light, is there any damage that can actually occur to the car, other than the light being on? Thanks!

 

You may burn a little oil and thats about it.

 

I know this post is old, but I think I have just encountered the same problem. Could anyone tell me if this line being ripped would cause horrible mpg and a vibration at idle? also what is the difficultly of replacing the line itself.

thanks,
-dwags

 

A vacuum leak can make your car run rough at idle - the check engine light is saying the O2 sensor and IAC can't compensate enough to keep the car from running lean. That could make the idle a bit off and can cause harder start ups. The difficulty of replacing the line mostly has to do with access to the end points. If you can't reach the end to slide on a new line, you will want to follow the procedure for replacing the PCV system (in fact, if you may want to consider doing the PVC parts as well if you suspect the other tubes are worn). To judge the effort watch RSPI's Youtube vids


As far as the bad gas mileage, normally a simple vacuum leak wouldn't impact mileage that much so I'd be looking at other issues - how recent were the plugs/wires/coils (depending on your year) done? Is the MAF/intake clean? Best to start by getting an OBD2 code reader and post up all the codes you find... Also pop open the oil filler cap - is there any sludge visible on the inside? Any other symptoms - oil leaks etc?

 

You say a vacuum leak will make your car run lean? strange... could it also make my car run rich? it starts up fast and easy every single time. just replaced my front o2 sensor, a few vac lines, and my lower engine mount. how ever it still vibrates at idle. idk, maybe im just paranoid and expect a 17 year old car to have no vibration at all:P

Thank you for your input though
-dwags

 

In response to your other questions- No check engine light(only abs and tracs)
full tune up including plugs, plug wires, cap/rotor and coil wire. MAF was replaced 3 months ago(bosch) I checked my fuel pressure it seemed ok. the only thing I can think of that would cause this is my pcv system, when I start the car the oil pressure light is on for maybe a half a second to a second at most then goes off. Did the glove test and it did not inflate at all... would it be possible to have a bad pcv system even if the glove did not inflate? ohh and I am leaking a slight amount of oil from the turbo but thats it for leaks

Thanks again
-dwags

 

Note that your ABS/TRACS light may be tied to the ABS controller (the part that bolts onto the ABS pump). Check out home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/Volvo_Parts/Volvo_V70_ABS.htm for some insights.

Regarding the oil pressure light - make sure you use OEM quality filters (ie Mann, Volvo OEM etc). The after market "double filter action" stuff may actually lower your oil pressure. Also make sure you are using the proper oil weight for your car/temperature.
If the oil pressure light goes off after a few seconds that seems normal to me but you can consider replacing the sensor.

Regarding the vacuum lines - a torn line will allow air to bypass the ICV thus leaning out the mixture at idle. But, the vacuum lines also actuate sensors/controllers that maintain the correct mixture at open throttle, so its conceivable that a torn line can allow for some false mixture readings where the sytem will try to compensate.

 

Thanks for the response. I was doing some more investigating this morning on the s70. I'm coming to strongly believe ALL of my problems are pcv/manifold related. I took off the ptc nipple which was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be and found sludge inside of that which brought me to the conclusion of the pcv being bad- Already ordered a new kit from ipd

Intake manifold gasket- I believe that is starting to go bad because of the slow disappearance of coolant. I top it off about once a month. Seeing as how the kit comes with the manifold gasket, I plan on killing two birds with one stone!

My only question is why does my car idle rough for about 15 seconds on a cold start? the rpms will bounce from 700-1050 then smooth out. is this also a symptom of the manifold gasket leaking or a clogged pcv, or should I look at my iacv?

Thanks again
-dwags