Just replaced the wire harness looming around the coil wires, cam sensor wires and the section leading to the fuel injector rail. Now I hear a very loud ticking that was not there before. What could I have done?

 

May have not done anything. How long did the car sit? Can you post a video?

 

It's a daily driver. Started it up before doing the work, Ran fine. I did finally get a check engine light,. The code was for the cam timing. getting dark outside now. I will pull the cover off in the morning and check the wiring going to the sensor. Code P0014 camshaft position actuator B -Bank 1 timing over- advanced. It is a GLT model also.

 

Why did you replace the harness?

Could you have damaged one of the wires? Maybe what you are hearing is arching.

 

Only put new looming over the wires. The old looming had almost completely crumbled and had fallen off the wires. It was the CVVT SOLENOID Exhaust Camshaft Reset Valve that I replaced the looming around the wires leading to it, not the camshaft sensor as I stated in my first post.

 

My best guess is that the timing may have jumped one tooth. Could just be a coincidence that it happened as I was doing another repair. I already have the timing kit, I was just waiting for warmer weather to install it. Will have to do it now instead of later. Thanks rspi for the great videos you have posted. I have learned a lot from watching them.

 

Maybe a wire has pulled out of a connector or something. Make double sure all of your connections are secure and in tight.

 

If the timing belt skipped a tooth, you'd hear it clacking from the piston hitting the valve. It's an interference engine. Is it possible that it can ship a tooth an dnot damage a valve, sure. But it would be the exception, not the rule.


As an fyi, timing belts skipping a tooth is usually indicated by an older belt OR a belt that was not put on correctly.

 

I have very definite loud valve noise. What else besides the timing belt could cause this symptom? Cam sensor maybe? I am going to align my timing marks just to be sure before I remove anything. I will also check my connections as rspi suggested.

 

Post a video and link it here.

 

Hope this works.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2vs...YzNndLT3c/edit

1999 Volvo S70 GLT with 122,000 miles.

 

That just sounds like a little cold valve noise and a missfire. if the wire looming had not been done I would have said you had a leaky lifter and suggested something like seafoam.


RSPI's suggestion to recheck your connectors is good advice. You may want to look for bent pins. By chance, did you pull the coils or plugs when you were doing your loom work?


I assume you are still driving it since its a daily driver.


If you bent a valve it would be way noisier than that and it would run badly.

 

Not driving at all. Noise continues after engine is completely warmed up. It was as quit as could be before I replaced the looming. I changed the oil after problem arose. It was nasty. Previous owner did not properly change the oil filter and left one end of the old oil filter lodged in the bottom of the filter housing and put another filter one on top of it, that flattened the filter. Replaced it with a mann filter and fresh oil. Did not pull the coils. The only items I unplugged were two coil connectors. Checked them all and they are all completely seated. I was thinking of adding seafoam to engine, but not sure how much to use.

 

What light is on next to the "service engine light"?


If you changed your oil you should reset the service engine light. Turn the key to position 1, press and hold the trip reset button on the dash, turn the key to position 2 (do not start the engine), the service light will start to blink. Release the trip reset button after the 3rd time it blinks and before the 4th time it blinks. Turn the key off. When you start the car the light will go off.


The Seafoam can has instructions on it. I don't recall if you have to change the oil or not, but you pour it into the crankcase. If the oil was really bad, changing it could have dislodged some gunk and plugged a lifter enough to cause it to fail to hold pressure correctly.


I still think the noise you are hearing is lifter noise. I didn't follow what you were saying about the oil filter. You also said you changed the oil after the problem arose. Are you referring to this problem or something else. if something else, what was that. What kind of filter did you put in? There should be no way to get a cartridge in and cap sealed with another seal at the bottom. You want to use a MANN filter or Volvo filter. You want to make sure you are using the original cap and that it has the dimple at the bottom and its intact. That dimple holds the pressure relief spring so you keep oil in the top half. I'd also consider checking the actual oil pressure. Most people don't realize that the oil pressure switch doesn't turn the light on until the engine oil pressure is way too low to not damage the engine.

 

Valve noise started after looming change... Oil change after valve noise... Used Mann oil filter from the tune up kit I purchased from IPD... The filter I REPLACED was made in the us and both ends of the filter had blue plastic ends. Apparently the previous owner changed the oil and pulled the old filter out and did not notice that one end of the old filters plastic end was left in the housing and put a new one on top of it... Check engine light came on before oil changed ... "Actually" there is a way to get a filter with plastic ends and the end off of the previous filter CRAMMED into the filter housing. I have seen this because that is what I had to remove to complete a proper oil and filter change.
I greatly appreciate your help and I am being as straight forward and exact with my words as I can be... But I am still getting the same code from my car. Code P0014 camshaft position actuator B -Bank 1 timing over- advanced... I really need to know what can cause this reading? Could be a restriction causing low oil pressure, but can the vvt not having enough oil pressure change the timing enough to cause the valve noise? Seems to be a timing issue one way or the other.

 

If you do some googling for P0014 Volvo you will find a number of hits. There appears to be like 3 or 4 potential issues related to the VVT and its function


1) Timing itself. Use RSPI's timing belt video as a guide. Pull the front plastic cover off the engine so you can see down into the crankshaft sprocket. Rotate the engine to alight the mark as RSPI outlines. Look at the timing marks for both camshafts. If you have VVT you may need to get further help on how to check that alignment. After I wrote all this I was thinking that you could also have a loose belt. These engines have a manual tension adjustment. As the belt ages it stretches but there is no adjustment to the tension as there is with newer engines.


2) Low oil pressure issue. Plugged galleys or VVT control resultant from the bad oil.


3) Cam sensor wiring - suspicious given you changed the looming. With the age of these engines, you may have a wire that has an insulation failure. The insulation get brittle from age and the heat and maybe adding the hard plastic loom caused the insulation to break or crack. This would be a problem.


4) VVT solenoid?

 

Very good ideas on what to check. Thank you. I will update as soon as I am able to.

 

If you find the belt to be loose, you should replace it, unless it is The reason for that is the belt would be slapping on the loose side when running. The belt has a life of 70K. There are lots or threads about belt life and age. Without a hydrayulic tensioner the belt tension has no way to adjust with age whoich is partly why the timing belt has a 70K life and not a 90+K life.

 

Timing belt was in good condition and running tight (as were the idler and tensioner pulleys). But that will be replaced soon none the less. Timing marks aligned as they should on all three marks. Fresh oil change with properly measured amount of Sea foam added to help clean engines internals. I am getting better oil flow to the VVT solenoid and the corresponding cam pulley because of this. I will drain and refill with fresh oil and filter very soon. The cam sensor or its wiring seems to be the next logical things to investigate, As this has a definite effect on the function of the VVT solenoid and VVT cam pulley. Other possible culprits could be the VVT cam pulley itself or malfunctioning ECM.

 

Update . Installed a new VVT solenoid, timing belt and water pump kit. The solenoid first, It by itself did not fix the problem. I then installed the new water pump and timing belt kit. I also did a reset on the VVT cam pulley. Running as it should now. A big thank you to everyone that helped me.