I picked up my daughter's S70 GLT the other day and it is leaking oil. I parked it in the garage and when I pulled it out the next day I found a mess. It looks like it leaked about an ounce of oil on my floor from one wheel to the other. When I looked under the car it was everywhere.

So this morning I dug around in there and found a few spots that looked more obivous.

1. Inside the timing belt area there is a little oil near the water pump. Just to the left of it where the cover connects. I assume that could only come from the cam seal.
2. The bottom of the distributer cap is wet, not dripping, just wet. Also the turbo tube there (connection) has some oil on it. Maybe another cam seal?
3. Under the car had a lot of wetness. So I wiped everything down took it for a spin and later found some oil on the back of the motor. There is what looks like it could be a plate with 4 bolts on it. They had oil on them even after the wipe down. There is also a little near the turbo, maybe it has leaked from above the turbo (I can see a drop of oil from higher) and oil has leaked down to the oil pan, but it doesn't look like the pan is leaking. I'm guessing the drivers side rear cam seal.

I guess this can go on for a while but oil leaks never get better. I can't remember if this car was leaking oil before I replaced the PCV system sumer before last or not. It was actually popping the oil dip stick out.

Besides the whinning (me), how hard is it to replace those seals? Does the cam have to be removed? Does that run the risk of messing up timing alignment and destroying valves on restart? Would I need special tools if I try to do it myself? Should I pay a shop to do it? If 2 of the cam seals are bad, should I have all of them replaced? Do you think it's the cam seals or should I look for leaks elsewhere?

 

Is this leak more consistant with a RMS or Rear Cam Seal??? I wipped down everything and drove the car about 60 miles today. When I parked it back in the garage on the ramps it was soaked again under there. It's pretty high and all over the bottom. Maybe there is a oil like there that is spraying somewhere. I really can't tell where it's coming from.

What is the odds of it being the aft rear cam seal leaking? If it's the rear main seal, should I replace the cam seals while I'm back there?

 

I would suggest cleaning off the engine compartment area again, and then run the engine while it's up on jack stands and crawl all over it to find the source.

When you drive it, wind is going to blow the oil all over the place, disguising where it's coming from.

Did you ck the turbo oil return line, from the turbo to the back of the engine block? It's common leak point.

 

No. Can't see where that is connected if it's high. There is oil pretty high. I'll see if I can locate a oil line to the turbo and check a few websites for oil line sale diagrams.

 

Checked a few links on Google and if this is the problem it is spraying out during boost. Not sure if I can check it, might just change it and see what happens.

 

Cleaned everything off and started the car, no leak could be seen, even with my wife reving the engine a little. So I took the car for a spin, drove it back on the ramps and found these bolts on a plate on the back of the motor bubbling oil from it. Crazy, what are these plates for? Why would it be leaking oil?


Anyway, I went to the stealer and they ordered the gaskets for these plates for $8. Now I need to pull the plate and replace the gasket. Does anyone know what these bolts should be torqued to.

 

Well, last night I guned it at a light and blew the front - aft cam shaft seal. I guess I'm glad it happened to me instead of my daughter out of town. I was thinking that thing would last till May when I planned on replacing the t-belt but I have to do it now.

As for the timing belt, I guess I need to replace it as well since it is oil soaked??? Correct??? I think it has about 25,000 miles on it. Is the Continental belt fine or should I use the oem one?

 

I would replace the 4 cam seals and turbo return line o-ring and clean the motor good and see from there.

You just have to be careful but no special tools needed.

 

Does the cam seals need some special grease when putting them in (or just oil them)?

Just to let anyone who wonders know, when I got the car 15,000 miles ago the PCV was so plugged that it was blowing the oil dip stick out. I think this weakened the seals. Then, about 8,000 miles ago I switched to full synthetic oil. That may have finished me off.

 

Contacted iPd today to see if they had oem cam seals and they said they had good replacements. I expresed my concerns and that lead to a deeper conversations about my problem. They suspected that the pcv system was plugged. When I gave them the 411 they said that I might have a bad motor that has a worn piston or something in it to cause pressure build up in my motor. So they strongly advised a compression test before replacing all the stuff that I planned to do. All for cam shaft seals, t-belt, tensioner, rollers, serpentine belt, rear plug seal, turbo return line seal, etc. They said it would be a shame to do all of that work just to start blowing the weakest seals in a few weeks, i.e. crank case seals, etc.

I have never done a compression test before and seen a guage at O'Riely's for $45. Should I fill the oil and try to test it myself or have it towed to a pro to have it checked? Any and all experienced suggestions are appreciated.

 

You can do a compression test. It is not that hard. With the motor at Normal operating temps remove all the spark plugs. Install the gauge and open the throttle all the way. Crank the motor over like 5-7 times then stop. See what the numbers are. Do that for all cylinders. Crank the motor over the same number of times for each cylinder.

I replace cam seals all the time on these cars. I highly doubt it is a bad motor. Seals dry out with age and temps. They do not always have to have a reason behind them leaking.

 

I think the guy on the phone was a little concern is because I told him that there was a leak on the rear end and that little plate behind the motor (near the fire wall) was bubbling oil out of it. On top of the fact that the front cam seal blew all the way out when I put my foot in it. There is a trail of oil from where I put my foot in it all the way to my house, about 2 miles.

 

There were two gauges at the store. I just said Compression Testor, the other said OHC testor. Do I need the one that says Over Head Cam to do the test or will any gauge work?

 

Either one should work fine.

 

Good. I'll get the one that cost $10 less.

 

Sounds like a plan.

 

Wow! Compression test was very easy. Compression is good from all I know. 150 - 145 - 150 - 145 - 140. I don't really think it could be any better. Time to replace the seals and move forward.

I purchased a basic gauge at O'Reily's but my neighbor had one so I used his.

1. Warm up the motor.
2. Remove all of the spark plugs.
3. Remove the fuel pump relay.
4. Screw the gauge into one of the spark plug holes.
5. Crank the motor. It will make a funny sound. Count the sound 8 to 10 times.
6. Read the gauge. Record the number and watch it for a few seconds to make sure it doesn't bleed off.
7. Bleed off the pressure with the button on the gauge.
8. Remove the gauge and test the next cylinder.
9. After you test each cylinder, put the motor back together.
NOTE: All readings should be with 10% of each other. If you have a low one, you can test it to see if it's a problem with the block or head. Spray a little oil in the cylinder, recheck the pressure, if it holds pressure, it's a problem with the block (piston, etc.), if it doesn't build pressure, it's a problem with the head (valve or something like that).

 

Well, I have finally gotten all of the parts to do the work on the S70. All except 1 rear cam shaft seal. I hope one of them are good or I can find one of the Elgin one's local.

All that know something about this job, please stay close tomorrow in case I need some help. I'll try to build some good instructions while I'm doing the job.

 

Well, done with the cam seals, t-belt, rollers, tensioner, tune up, and brakes. The car started and drove around the block so I should be good. I'll post some instructions later. Hurrah!!!

Now to replace the seal on the back of the motor to see if that is the last leak. One of my cam seals went in a little to far, hopefully that wont matter.

 

Congrats on a good job.