I have a 5 amp battery draw, measured between the neg battery post and neg battery cable. This is with everything off (except the lights in the trunk because I the trunk is open during the test).

I've pulled fuses and relays one at a time. The 5 amp draw drops to about a 3 amp draw when I pull fuse 32 (central electronic module, interior lights, power steering). My interior lights are not on. So it seems something on fuse 32 is pulling about 2 amps. Don't have any idea where the other 3 amps are coming from.

Please help!!!

 

You need to close the trunk latch before doing this test. Also close all door locks and the hood.

 

It was kind of tricky to do this with the trunk latched, but flipped the rear seats forward and reached into the trunk to test. Instead of 5 amps, still drawing about 3 amps. When you say "close all door locks", do you mean lock all doors? Does an open hood turn anything on? I've never seen an under-hood light.

 

I've pulled each and every fuse and relay one-by-one. Disconnected the alternator. Still getting 4 or 5 amps of current draw.

Only thing I can think of is the alarm system. Is there some way to disconnect it so that I can isolate it? Other ideas?

 

I'd wait atleast 5 min with multimeter connected between accumulator after closing doors (and not turning alarm ON) so the car would shut down it's unneeded systems. And then check the drain.

 

Thanks. I've allowed it time to shutdown and connected the + and - leads to zero things out.

Still getting about 5 amp draw. I've tracked down about 2-3 amp draw coming from the rear view mirror. The overhead cabin lights are off, so it's not them.

Fuse 32 is also pulling about 1 amp. Fuse 32 is central electrical module, interior courtesy lights, progressive power steering.

 

Looks like I'm headed to the dealer.

Aaaaaaaaaargh!!

 

Hey bud just saw the post .......sound like u good with the meter ....hope I catch you before the dealer? ground wires have you checked them in the engine bay, the ones that attach to the fire wall its looks like a flat stitch wire?



Take the battery off let sit.. test it just to be safe you might have done this......


I would say in my opioion that most of the time not. Always your problem is battery,,battery leads, ground wire or some place where a wire could be worn down or exposed from age or a known damaged spot

Its not from the underside if you haven't had damage its more than likely not in the cabin. That leaves the trunk wires and engine bay.. let me know asap please will be here to help you as much as I can through it if you like.

 

The alarm is right above the front passenger wheel at 2o'clock you half to jack up right side remove wheel pull back the plastic to get to the 2o'clock alarm connection you might need to drill out the rivets holding the fender plastic in place then you can just unplug the alarm siren....my alarm failed with old battery fluid that melted the siren mother board and I didn't have any power drain.....my alarm siren has been sitting on my desk now for weeks...I would say its not the alarm but you did the test thorough the fuzes.

I now have alarm service message every start up..my alarm works just no siren

 

Thanks toronto. Dealer can't look at it until Tuesday so I have a couple days to try to solve this.
I found the stitch wire on the back of the engine. It's intact.
I've had the battery tested. It's not the problem.
When I disconnect the siren, I still get 5 amp draw.

Any other ideas?

 

OK IMA go out to my baby right away with pad of paper for some possibles to help.....gimmie a few

Check out my pics

 

Thanks. Not sure exactly how you suggest testing these things. Appreciate any specifics on how to test.

No damage to the car. Nothing has changed lately that I can think would lead to these problems.

Battery was tested and passed with flying colors.

 

Just to clarify a few things...

Testing with the trunk latched is easy. Open the trunk. Use a screwdriver to manually push the latch closed. Open the front doors. Use a screwdriver to manually close the latches. Open the hood. Use a screwdriver to push the latches closed.

Now, lock the car with the remote. The hazards should flash if all latches are closed. If not, something is open. Then do the draw test without interrupting the current to the car.

 

Toronto...still a little unclear. Please clarify for dummies...

 

OK. So I took the S80 to the dealer. They tell me that my battery is failing. Just need to replace battery. Also noted that the siren is not working quite right, and may be failing soon but that the siren is not causing the battery drain.

I had previously taken it to Autozone, where I actually bought a new battery. Once they put the new battery in and tested it, the battery was being drained. Autozone told me that it was not a battery issue, but a significant power drain. They gave me back my old battery.

So, I'm having the Volvo dealer replace the battery today and then run it through whatever testing they can to make sure it's not draining.

 

OK brother

With hood open it sends code to CEM that its not closed
F uze 32 suplyes the glove box light remove the door I'd say check hole area inside around
Have you had any damage to any thing on car?
I would test the resistance or draw with the 3 ground wires right beside engine fuze box and opposite side
Check far upper left stitch engine wire for draw

And finally I am feeling strong that its one of these two. You have a week battery or one or both battery lead wire have come to the end....PS the guy right behind fixing up his beemer took it to five different shops after the first one I said batteries cane be done after six months change the betterie first. He finally did after some$$$ and it was the battery in the end ....start off right now getting a new battery with warrentie is what I would due instead of waiting...its up to ..but it never hurts to get a new battery after eight months of harsh weather.....and if its old your only doing your self a favor....let me know going shopping back in couple hours.......

When I got my car the batteries was 6 months old and it was done my s80 sucked it dry


Cheeers
************ this post was deleted hu5ker555 you have the original e-mai and so do I i re-cut and pasted this post from my e-maill.... its was deleted and my advise was shunned...i cant believe this happened hu5ker thia changes everything you and me know ............im just here to help this is terrible for the volvo community i am being bullied.......

 

Now I have similar problem.
Closed and unlocked car eats 0.22A
Fuse 32 = 0.13A, fuse 28 = 0.08A
Interior lamps off, glove box light removed while testing. Got 0A after these are removed.
Where to get wiring diagrams from S80 2000?
Think I need to change alarm siren ecu as car is silent when alarm goes ON.

 

Did anyone ever solve this? My girlfriend's has the same symptoms. I have it at a shop right now cause I've been busy, but I'm ready to take this on myself. I've done the tests with the multimeter, 5 amp draw. Pulling all the fuses one at a time only found a few small draws of no concern. Anything??

 

2000 S 80 closed all latches, hood, trunk, side doors, pulled the negative lead and amp meter in between showing a five amp draw or 4.7 A to be exact. Also let the car sit closed for 45 minutes before testing again to make sure everything has shut down. Since it's exactly the same amount of draw, I'm thinking we probably all have the same problem, surely someone must've found the answer by now? Thanks for any replies or ideas.

 

Mojo, mine turned out to be that the light inside the glove box wasnt turning off when the box was closed. I removed the bulb and everything was gravy. Best of luck to you