well l pulled the head,did not see anything,so took over to machine shop,4 cylinders had leak by the valves,not bent ,not seating carbon up,so they are going to do a valve job on it,think the idle fluctating could have caused it,the previous owner had the dealer flash the comp.for the electronic throttle recall and it didnt make any difference,thinking the valves may have been the priblem all a long.any thoughts?

 

It is very possible it was the problem.
This time did you mark the VVT before removing it?
This way it will go back together easier.

One day when I can get my hands on a car at my house to use I am going to do a write up about replacing the Cam seals.

 

marked every thing,come out here l will you do this one,with the cam holder it will make it alot easier,thanks l will keep you posted,take about a week to get all the gaskets.

 

Sounds good I will be waiting to hear how it goes.

 

TECH,have ? for you when you pull the plug out of the side in theblock to line up the timing marks on the crank,what cylinder are you timing on,the crank gears seems it only goes on 1 way but with that lined up #1 is not at the top of traval.thanks

 

Do you mean the plug that locks the crank?
I believe with the timing marks lined up it should be just down a little on #1 due to being a O tollerance engine.

 

with #1 piston up the raised mark on the crank gear is almost 1/4 turn off,near as l can tell that gear will only go on 1 way,had it off when l did the seal,l will do some double checking.

 

Yes it only goes on one way.
If you have all the timing marks lined up you should be fine installing.
Once the belt is on crank over by hand.

 

going to start putting it back together today had to get 2 brokenhead bolts out,let you know how it goes.

 

Sounds good I will wait to hear the outcome.

 

got the head installed,sounds ok,has code poo14,set the vvt,l believe to be rt,could it still be off,can you loosen the three bolts an let move a little or would that be a waste,any suggestions?thanks

 

That might throw it off more.
What you might have to do it try to find a shop that had Vadis or Vida to read the codes and real time data.
Then they can tell you how far off it is.
You can see the numbers on the screen and it should be between a certain set of numbers.

 

I'm finally ready to put my S80 engine back together after bending four valves when the timing belt tensioner failed and the belt slipped. I want to make sure I do it right and not bend the new valves.Afew questions ... 1) When installing the cylinder head must you use new bolts? VADIS says to "Use new screws. Lubricate and install all the screws." I didn't order new bolts when ordering all my parts. 2) Is special lubricant required for the cylinder head screw/bolts?

3) Trailrunnermentioned a few posts back that the number one cylinder was at top dead center when the timing mark was not aligned with the oil pump. Like his, I foundmine was 90 degrees off of vertical when the number one cylider was TDC. I don't have the crankshaft stop tool 5451. If I rotate the crank clockwise back to align the marking on the crankshaft timing belt pulley with the marking on the oil pump am I good to go? I want to insure I'm on the intake not exhaust stroke when setting up the engine.

4) What brand of liquid gasket do you recommend using on the camshaft cover?

Thanks,
George

 

1. Yes use new bolts.
2. Just a rubdown with regular oil is fine.
3. Make sure all timing marks line up and you will be fine.
4. Use Volvo gasket sealer.

 

Has anyone successfully installed timing belt without special tool?

 

There is a special procedure when removing an installing CVVT pulley.

Here is a simplified version of it assuming the person who work on the car knows how to replace timing belt and adjust tensioner.

1.) Make sure all timing mark that can be used aligned to proper position as close as possible since it's out to begin with (oil pump and timing belt cover)
2.) Lock cam at the end of engine (cam locking tool).
3.) Remove timing belt
4.) Remove CVVT pulley
5.) loosen all 3 small bolts around sprocket so CVVT unit turns freely
6.) install center bolt with CVVT pulley(MAKE SURE BOLT IS DRY AND NO OIL) only finger tight
7.) turn pulley (clockwise) until pulley is 1 tooth beforealignment mark.
8.) Without disturbing the CVVT marking tighten center bolt to 120 newton meter (also tighten the 3 small bolt around the sprocket after the center bolt is tighten)
9.) torque outer cvvt cap to 35 newton meter
10.) re-installed timing belt and remove cam locking tool

NOTE: FROM 2nd step till 10 keep the cam lock

Hope this help

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I am about to embark on a timing belt job on a V40 this weekend and want to get it right. Looking at the belt area I think I will be replacing the cam seals too, so I want to make sure there is a way without having special tools.

My plan is go clockwise 90 deg past the timing marks on the crank, then back off 90 deg to position the VVT pulley. Next, mark the old belt, pulleys, pulley bolts with paint marker. Remove the belt, remove the pulleys, replace seals.

Now, the intake pulley should be easy, should the exhaust pulley simply go back as found then mark the new belt using the old belt as a reference, slap it all together and turn the key? Or will I have trouble making sure the exhaust pulley is on the cam exactly as it came off? I can't picture it and haven't started pulling covers yet.

Thanks!

 

On the S40 the VVT pulley is supposed to lock into position when the belt is removed. It does not always do it though. The S40 is totally different setup from the S60,S80.

 

Thanks Tech! I think I am going to pass on the seals though since someone pointed out that the center bolt needs 120Nm and I have no way to hold the camshaft. I hope the seals are actually fine and that the oil is from a filler cap gasket failure..... I'll clean out the PCV system as well.

 

Do either of you have a copy of the procedures to setup the VVT.

I replaced the head and am having trouble aligning the VVT.

Thanks