Finally the head was rebuilt. It was becoming hard to start before the valve problems - it was running rough generally. After rebuild it is still hard to start - but only when it is 'hot' from running or from being parked outside during working hours (our daytime temps are in the 90's now). Early morning or at night after it has cooled down it starts right up.

When hot it cranks / turns over, but doesn't start until it has turned over for several seconds. I'm thinking fuel issue? The mechanic who R&R the head could not find the cause. No codes, no warnings. When I picked it up it didn't seem like too much of a problem, now it has me worried and is getting aggravating (the days are getting hotter). I've noticed on hard excelleration (which is rare) the check engine light blinks for a couple seconds.

Any thoughts?

This seems to be the only remaining, or should I say current, problem.

2000 S80 T6, 111K miles. Dark Green / Tan.

Replaced since September, 2007: (1) both turbos w/ low milage replacements, (2) Timing belt, pully, tensioner, (3) control arms, ball joints, sway bar linkage, axle, steering rollers (4) enginer mounts, (5) misc exterior and interior parts and trim, (6) R&R cylinder head - 12 valves, (7) transmission replaced prior to purchase (?). (8) ? (9) ? ....

 

If I had the begining of a voltage problem, battery or regulator, would I get a warning message or would there be a code?

 

Voltage problem might set a code.

Have someone check for fuel pressure bleed back.

Also the check engine light flashing that means misfiring.

Are there any codes at all?

There seems to be a rash of hard starting problems lately. I can't seem to get to the bottom of it either. we have sent a few to the Dealer and they can't even figure it out. They keep BSing the customer. Then they still end up back by use.

Next time it happens watch the tach really closely and see if it jumps up to about 3000 RPM when you are trying to start it.

Thats what is happening to all the cars we have with the same problem. But I also always get a crank sensor code. Even though the sensor is new and good and the flywheel is also good.

The Dealer trys to say it is a bad ground connection between the engine and tranny. But I know it isn't that. But to set the customers minds at ease we install a ground wire between the engine and tranny to make sure it is grounded properly.

Hopefully soon I will get to the bottom of the problem and it might help you as well.

 

The mechanic that rebuilt the head noticed the problem and said he didn't pull any codes. I haven't noticed the tach jumping - I tried it a few minutes ago, several times, it took a second or so to start (usually it takes longer) but the tach stayed at zero and as it started never really got close to 3000. It may be meaningless but I tried jumping it after I posted - it made no difference on the difficulty of the start. Oh and I've tried flooring it before and during start up - no difference, it doesn't even flood.

Please post if you discover anything. I will probably take it somewhere next week, this can't be good for the starter, and they can check the fuel pressure bleed back and the misfiring. If I get anything I'll post back. Thank you Tech.

 

If I find out something I will be sure to let you know.