Happy Holidays all,

What seemed like a minor, occasional noise a few months ago is happening a lot lately and I will happily accept anyone's advice.
It feels like the front end bottoms-out very easily lately at low speeds and it sounds like a serious clunking.
I have read about strut mounts, struts, spring seats, sway bar end links, tie rod ends. I am sure there are more things that I haven't read about.
Can anyone offer a suggestion before my yearly hosing at the repair shop?
It is an '02 T6, with 76K on it.

BTW i I did my own brakes and rotors (with help). Are replacing the spark plugs easier or harder for a novice like myself?

 

I would say bad spring seat or sway bar end links.
If you haven't messed with springs I would be careful messing with springs.

 

Thanks Tech, as usual.
Anyway I can tell if these things are bad, or does an expert ned to?
If it is these things, about how much do you think I am looking at, and how long can this go unrepaired before I am very sorry?

 

Try turning the top strut nut under the hood. If it turns they are bad.
Not sure exactly sure of the cost. If you did want to try yourself we can walk you through it.

 

Thanks Tech. I will try this morning.

 

The spring seats are about $25 to $35 if you buy them from Advanced Auto. IPD sells stronger ones. I had one replaced not too long ago. I won't mess with the springs. It shouldn't cost too much to have it done if you wont want to do it yourself, but dont let them take you for a ride either.

If that nut goes round and round, then you know it's the seat. If it's springy when you try to turn it, then Tech will have to give you advice from there.

 

Thanks Guys,
I guess I need to remove those three nuts and cover to get to the top strut nut, right?

 

Pretty easy job if you take your time... be careful with the springs. Just did these about a month ago as well.

 

No the one that comes out of the center in the middle of the 3 nuts is the one you need to try to spin. There might be a plastic cover over the nut that you will need to remove.

 

Thanks guys. I'll get out there today.

75, you said you did this job. Did you do it yourself? Did you replace the struts as well? Are you more than 'average' handy'? Most importantly, did replacing the springs fix the problem?
Tech, I just read your thread on early replacement of the timing belt. Gulp. My s80 has 77K on it. Should I be be planning on this procedure? What should I look for in a new mechanic? Should I offer to supply the parts?

Thanks again guys!

 

Yes, I did do this one myself... it wasn't the springs that were the issue, is what the spring seats that had the bearing torn away from the molded rubber. It would "clunk" over bumps. If I do one side, I do the other figuring it would happen on that side next soon anyway! Thus, both sides with new seats and bearings. When you have the "tops" off the suspension, you have the bearing/seat/spring all off the strut thus you could replace the strut if needed. Pay attention to the eccentric settings for camber though...

As far as the timing belt, I did a write up on my experience with it... it can be found here:

https://volvoforums.com/m_101491/tm.htm

As far as experience, hard to judge my own experience...

Good luck!

 

Thanks again 75. Did you find instructions on VADIS? If so can I should be able to find them on mine.

 

Yes, I did... I used those as a reference... couple things to add in though:

Use blue loctite on the three bolts on the top and be cautious on getting the struts in/out to not scratch the paint!

 

I finally got out there. The nuts are "springy" not loose. Are spring seats still the diagnosis?

 

If they are springy then they are good.

 

Thanks Tech. Now what should I be considering?

 

Sway bar end links. With the car jacked up you can pull on the sway bar on each side and feel for a click which would mean play in it.

 

You nailed it Tech. Click click. Anyone know of a link that describes replacing sway bars and their peripherals?

 

Sorry no link but if it is just the links that are bad its only 2 nuts per side and it is off.

To replace the entire sway bar you need to drop the subframe.

But im guessing it is just the links that are bad.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/193
That should be what you need.

 

Good info, mine is also clunking (LH side only) over bumps. I'll have to check out the parts mentioned!