Did you remove the power steering line bracket?

 

Everything up front seems to be loose. The driver's front of the subframe dropped an inch or two with a crowbar's help but the rear driver's side doesn't want to move even though it appears that everything is unbolted. Passenger side isn't going anywhere but I'm not as concerned about that as it seems that I can do all I need to do by dropping the driver's if only ...

Also, because of the tight fit, do you see any problem with applying the gasget to the block and then installing the sump?

 

You must be missing something simple.

 

It should drop way lower than that in the front. There is the wiring harness passenger side,Power steering pipe, and ground wire(drivers side) then is should drop down.

I would not put the sealer on the block due to the oil running out of the cylinders.

 

If it ain't one thing ... I have 2 broken bolts on opposite sides of the pan. I've already drilled both and broken 2 new tools trying to remove them but they aren't budging. What's the danger if I just leave them? Is it significant? Do I risk too much by trying to continue to drill and drill the block some?

 

I would try to leave it alone and see if it leaks.

 

It is a $%^& to get those bolts in - I did it and had to adjust the engine jack a bit in order to get them aligned. I can't remember if I raised the sibfram with a jack and lowered the engine or vise versa but it will line up. The tougher one is the front engine mount bold. I would do the before I tighten the front subframe bolts. No offense here but tech wasn't alot of help with this project...

 

I finally got 'er done but it was unbelievable how infuriating the job was. I had to use the driver's side (the one with the pin) to force fit subframe and body together, which aligned the passenger's. But then the passenger wouldn't screw in for no apparent reason. After half and hour of trying, I finally got it to bite and finished up the job but I've been throwing hammers because of this job for way too long now.

If it saves me $600 or $700 though, I suppose it was worth the pain.

 

Sorry I cannot always help everyone. But also you did not answer all the questions I asked.

 

I am also taking this opportunity to replace my aging SLS pressure hose. This is the hose that runs from the pump to the hard metal line that feeds the suspension. My new accumulators came with little plastic plugs in the orifices. Hang onto these. I was able to use them to plug the hard metal line and the orifice of the pump where the banjo fitting goes. This will ensure that everything stays clean while I have the hose rebuilt.


Thanks
_____________________
Military gifts specialists offer a select range of custom designed Airforce Rings for all branches of the armed services.

 

Well for my part, I couldn't have done it without you, Tech. Many, many thanks.

 

Your Welcome glad all is good now.

 

Quite right, it wasn't leaking from there. I eventually jacked it up, water blasted it all clean then let it run while I watched. The oil leak was the other seal that wasn't done, dodgy local mechanics... I fixed it myself for next to nothing. Months later and now I have a transmission problem, she's been put aside for a while now until I have the time to pull it all out.

 

Thanks for the update.

 

just dont theses seals and what can i say....WHAT A PAIN IN THE ****!!

just some advice if you going to do it......drop the subframe on both sides and also use a jack and a bit of wood to raise the engine up(drivers side) this will give you enough room to release the pan.


ok i have a question. i replaced the o-rings and one of them(the one to the return pipe) was blown out of possition, half in and half out of the pipe, so i assumed this was the problem. I finished the job and drove 30 miles with no 'no oil pressure' problems and then suddenly when i arrived home the dreaded 'no oil pressure' light flickered on and off......then when the car cooled it was fine again!

what could this be now?

 

Are you sure one of the o-rings between the pan and block did not slip out?

 

no they where in place....but the one on the return pipe didnt feel a great fit but was fitted correctly..i did try putting 2 together but i could not fit the pipe back on so just left on as 1.

 

Did you change the ones on the pipe leading to the oil filter from the oil cooler? Is that what you are calling the return line?

 

yes thats correct, i did change them and the one closest to the filter was the blown one...i thought is was a bad fit when i nstalled it but just though thats how it supose to be!

 

Ok Did you replace the pickup tube one?
Also was the screen on the tube collapsed?