I have a 2000 Volvo S80 approximatly 145,000 mi. It was having a number of issues and I took it to the dealer to have a look as I don't yet have a reliable local repair shop.

The diagnosis is as follows.
- Need Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor
- Camshaft Reset Valve
- Accelerator Position Sensor.
- Rear Main Seal is leaking oil.
- Camshaft Seal is leaking oil

In addition there are these items,
-upper tourque mount is borken
-front and rear struts are leaking
-RF stabilizer link excessive play
-Contol arm bushings are cracked


I was quoted at $1,100 for the check engine light issues (turbo boost, chamshaft, accelerator) another $2,400 for the oil leaks.

In the end they said that they declined to do any service year of the car and miles on the vehicle so if I wanted to get anything done I would need to take it to a private shop.

I realize that the cost of these repairs may exceed the value of the car, however at the same time I do not have the cash flow to purchase a new vehicle or take on recurring payments. Are there certain items that can be dealt with that will provide me drive-ability that make sense given my position. The car is just sitting right now as it does not seem to be smart to drive given the condition and feel.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Are any of these items things that I could take on myself?

 

What is your level of mechanical ability? Most of those you should be able to find info online with some searching and do if you are a little capable.

 

I'd separate the issues and then deal with them in order of importance and complexity to repair. 1) oil leaks. Rear main requires dropping the transmission so unless its pouring out oil, I'd switch to high mileage dino oil and hope the seal softeners help slow the leak. Similar with the cam seal. That can be a DIY job if you have a full set of tools and moderate mechanical ability. 2) boost pressure sensor, throttle position sensor etc. What specific CEL codes is the car throwing that need to be resolved (you won't get past your next emissions test if you can't fix) and do you have driveability issues? Also there's two parts in the Volvos - the accelerator position sensor, which is part of the pedal assembly and the electronic throttle body (aka ETM). The ETM is the more common failure so read up on testing that to match your symptoms. The pedal itself can be replaced for about $130 so if that's the issue, its a DIY repair, the ETM is more expensive component and has nuances to its repair. 3) suspension/motor mounts. The upper torque mount is a DIY repair, parts are fairly cheap $50-75 is my guess. Struts are DIY provided you have the tools - spring compressors can be rented from Autozone etc. The struts themselves go for 125-150 per wheel plus some other wear out bits, spring seats, mounts etc should be inspected. The control arm bushings are pressed in so most people just have the whole arm replaced and get new ball joints as part of the deal. A machine shop can press out/in the bushings but at the end of the day, its just as cheap to replace the whole part. Again here its more about tools and patience since the removal can be spent dealing with rusted bolts/leverage, tools etc. Any time you do struts, control arms etc you need to finish with an alignment so it may be best to do all at once. I'd trust an indy to do the suspension work since there's no real special knowledge or Volvo dealer tools needed. In sum, If you can get the check engine light issues sorted out, you can then plan out what's next.

 

Thanks for the Feedback!
I believe I am mechanically able and willing to take on a moderate level of DIY. The previous job on the car that I took on myself was replacing the Spark plugs.
I don't think I am interested in dropping the transmission and don't believe i have the means to take on this level of a job. The oil is dripping, but feel it is something I can manage with keeping it topped off and keeping a close eye on the levels.
I do not have the specific CEL codes, only what was conveyed to me from the dealer which I outlined above, so I don't know if it is in fact the throttle position sensor or the accelerator position sensor. It was indicated on my paperwork as the accelerator. I do have driveability issues. The car has extreme stuttering when stopped and progressively getting worse. (i am not driving it currently with the fear of getting stranded somewhere).
I also believe they cleared the codes so it no longer is indicating a check engine notification (don't know if this matters).
I am totally willing to take on these repairs myself if able, but a couple concerns I have having read up a bit is getting the correct part needed and more concerning is if there is any electrical reset that would required specialized equipment or codes that could only be performed by the dealer.

 

Is there a difference between the Accelerator Position Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor?

 

Is it the front camshaft seal that's leaking? If so, that would be my main concern. The timing belt gets covered in oil and it will slip. Not good on an interference engine. You'll need a cam lock tool to replace the front cam seals. Best to get the codes to find out what's really going on.

 

I do not believe it is the front camshaft seal.

I was unable to get the codes from the dealer. After speaking with them, they said that the tech just wrote down what the issues were and did not record the codes. So without taking it in somewhere I am at a loss for the specific codes.

Are there other means in determining the issues and which ones I can take on without the code information. I realize there is some risk, but there must be some testing that can provide fairly accurate information.

I think my major issue right now is the accelerator position sensor (?). When the car is idle it sounds and feels like it's running rough like it's going to stall.