Curious.... How did this work out for you in the end? No other updates in several months...

m

 

Still working on it. Taking one step at a time because of money reasons but I'm ready to start putting everything back together just waiting on head gasket set from online order, the local stores were to much. Now, I got lucky and found brand new volvo exhaust valves from a local shop that said they won't ever need them for $10 each. Volvo wants $70 each. The same shop had made a custom spring compressor that worked on this engine, that was hard to find. They let me replace all of the exhaust valves in the trunk of my other car at their shop. Looks great and I think good to go. I sure what caused all of this was my exaust cam slipping on my belt so I'll check that whole system out. On the sealant for the valve cover: Volvo told me they use Permatex and a tube was $38. I called Permatex Tech. Dept. and they said something Grey is perfect for the seal and around $10 at most stores. I'll check further into it. I have put together two hardwood boards with 4 large C clamps to use as a valve cover holddown tool and am doing some last cleaning prep like cleaning out head bolt holes and threads etc... If you have any ideas of other prep thoughts that would be great.

P.S. I'll need to make sure the timing belt tensionor is working fine as well.

I'll keep you posted, Scott.....................

 

Quite honestly, I am relatively new to the Volvo marque, so am hesitant to offer much advice.

I would suggest if the head bolt holes in the the block enter the water jacket that you coat them well with some non hardening sealer (available at any chain auto store) and you should be fine with a silicone based sealer for the valve cover, just make sure that you've cleaned all mating surfaces well with some laquer thinner or denatured alchohol.

Good luck!

 

Thanks,

I have read that you just coat the head bolt threads with oil and not use thread sealer. If any body out there knows how important the angle head bolt tightening instructions are, that would be a great help?

Scott...........................

 

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...mNTUw&hl=en_US

 

Thanks so much. This is fantastic and helps me with all of my questions. I'll keep you posted,

Scott..................

 

A quick question for everyone. On the timing belt tensioner, I know to depress the pin but mine has a plastic white cap that spins around and the pin goes up thru the middle and not sure how that works. The help pages don't really cover this. Thanks, Scott.........................

 

Just for clarification using correct terms:

White Cap is on the Dampener. Tensioner is the one that has 1 bolt that goes into the block and has the pulley on the other side.

Dampener's Pin pushes against the Tensioner, at the bottom of the Tensioner. At that point of contact, Tensioner has a dimple / cone. Plastic Cap on the Dampener helps with better contact at the dimple/cone.

Yes, the Pin needs to go thru the White Cap. White cap is usually installed after the Dampener and Tensioner have been installed and the belt has been tensioned, i.e. small nail removed from Dampener's pin. At that point pin is in the most extended position, hence that is when the white cap is installed, by being pushed in through the side opening.

 

Pull the white cap off of the tensioner. I call it a tensioner, some call it the dampener, whatever. Just pull the plastic piece off then compress it.
1995-1997 Volvo 960 Timing Belt Tensioner Damper

If it doesn't leak, stick a pin in it and when you install it, snap the white guide back on. I thought I mentioned it in my instructions??? Items 16 & 17: Timing belt replacement instructions on a 1997 Volvo 960