Install dash cam question: 2020 V90 Inscription
 

Hi. I own a 2020 V90 Inscription. Has anyone installed a front and rear dash cam, and hard-wired it to the passenger side footwell fuse box? If yes, what kind of dash cam did you install and what fuse box number did you use to "hot" wire?

Thanks

To date, I've noticed that 64 people viewed my post, yet no person has responded to it. I guess it's possible, but somewhat unlikely, that none of the viewers have a dash cam in their car.

It would be extremely helpful, and I would be most grateful, if anyone who uses a dash cam in their newer-model-year Volvo could offer advice. Since my original posting, I have purchased a dash cam, but still would like to receive advice on what, if any, "always-on" fuse in the passenger side kick-pad fuse box can be used to connect to my cam.

Thanks

I greatly appreciate all of the feedback and useful information I received. Thank you so much, Volvo community.

I used fuse 46 for the heated seat. I also have some photos of the installation if you are interested...

I’ve installed two separate dash cams

sorry it’s a bit late on the reply but it’s for future reference

front cam is very easy and just involves running the wire tucked under the headlining then down the a pillar again tucking it under works fine and then the trim panel on the end of the dash will pop off and undo the airbag plug

under the dash I found it easier to undo the trim just under the glove box aswell as take the glove box iirc these are held in by torx screws

pull back the carpet and the fuse box is under there near the door side of the footwell

take off cover and use a piggyback fuse adapter

up to you what fuse you use but use something not important like a heated seat or heated steering wheel fuse, you’ll at least know if that fuse has gone as the heated seat for example won’t work or the cam won’t or even both

if you don’t have some options fitted then there will be spare fuses on the board, ideally use a multimeter and test what’s on a permanent live and on a Switched live.

earth the wire to a nearest bolt should be one near you can use

if you don’t have a multimeter then plug the wire into a fuse and check that the camera goes off and shuts down when you lock the car

most cars these days power down in stages so not everything instantly powers down and can sometimes take ten mins or so

the rear camera is a bit more tricky

Pull the cover just above the seat belt off

there is an 8mm bolt under where the seat belt is you’ll need to slider the lever holding the belt strap in place and undo that

once that’s done pull up the boot seal from the top of the c pillar to around the middle of the bottom of the boot to make it easier to pull the trim panel off on the drivers side (UK)of the boot, basically the part that holds the fold down seat buttons and tow bar retraction button

once you pull the panel out disconnect any plugs like the 12v plug, seat buttons etc you can just move this panel to one side it doesn’t need to come out

you’ll now need to undo 2 torx bolts holding the parcel shelf guide in place it’s in two pieces so trim tools are handy to remove these

once these are removed by pulling at them you’ll have full access to run the wiring from the fuse box which is the small black box on the side of the car

again there is a bolt you can use for the earth near the boot floor

plenty of spare fuses in this box too so same again just use a multimeter or use fuse 31 which I used it’s a spare and is a Switched live

then the hardest part is running the cable through the rubber trunking that connects the boot lid to the car don’t use anything sharp I used an electricians nylon fishing tool or you can use something like Strimmer wire

basically just push the wire through whilst feeling for the end of the wire coming through , this is the hardest part about doing this and it required me to cutting and re solder the dash cams wiring plug so that it was just the wire coming through rather than the plug aswell

you’ll need to take the connecting rubber ends off then will come away and you’ll need to undo the white plastic clips that hold the rubber on which so it makes it easier to get them pushed back in you’ll understand when you do it

once your through there is a trim panel just above that is just clipped in use a trim tool and it’ll pop off

connect your wire to your camera and your done

sorry I wish I took some pictures to help people out but thought id write this out whilst it’s fresh in my mind

make sure the cameras power down once the car is locked, it depends what your settings are on the camera mine takes around ten seconds or so for them to both power down once the car is locked

fuses are micro 2 fuses and not micro fuses what the Volvo manual states so search for micro 2 piggy back fuse on eBay for a hard wiring kit

Dash cam front and back s90
 

I did quite a bit of research on this. Not to effect sensors or Volvo cameras and the best dash cam as I was a professional photographer. Sensors for dash cams are important as most are years behind.

I settled on Thinkware U1000 plus radar unit and rear camera polarizer lenses and obdII power cable.

works a charm and and thinkware U1000 has a sensor much newer than other top brands. Yea it’s 500 for the complete kit but hey. It’s an s90 inscription plus. So I want the best protection possible and have it now.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/volvofo...c6b2427f7.jpeg
Radar unit on left top and u1000 thinkware on right top. All wires run to the right and down. Rear is center top and cable run down the right and extra is in dash right cover. Works a charm