Ignition Switch
#1
Ignition Switch
Hi, I have just replaced the ignition switch on my 2008 V50 after months of intermittent non-starting. Was unable to be diagnosed by a scan, as no codes came up identifying an issue ()when the car was mobile), so gambled on a replacement switch after reading a lot of similar reports. The new ignition switch did not come with a key, and now of course, inserting the old key into the new barrel locks the key into the barrel and won't start the car. (Can be released by taking battery terminals off). Called the Volvo dealer to see if our old key could be programmed for the new switch but was told our old key should be accepted and we needed to replace the steering lock (another $800)! Is anyone able to comment on this, and perhaps give some advice. (I did read a similar thread about downloading software to fix this, but need further instruction please). Thanks in advance.
#2
just replaced the ignition switch on my 2008 V50
Called the Volvo dealer to see if our old key could be programmed
but was told our old key should be accepted
and we needed to replace the steering lock (another $800)!
downloading software to fix this, but need further instruction please). Thanks in advance.
Called the Volvo dealer to see if our old key could be programmed
but was told our old key should be accepted
and we needed to replace the steering lock (another $800)!
downloading software to fix this, but need further instruction please). Thanks in advance.
A new steering column lock does require a download using VIDA to make the key signal (picked up by the antenna ring in the ignition switch) be recognized. On the parts page the "SW" (#10 a SCL reload) is what is needed to make a new steering column lock work. They might charge maybe 3 hours installation and programming labor including the download, plus the software and $215 column lock. (warranty time for the column lock is ~1.2 hours, customer pay is more and downloads are usually 1 hour) So unfortunately that could easily be $800. You can do the download yourself - with a Vida subscription, an appropriate CPU to put Vida on and a (possibly factory only) DICE unit . Subscription info is at volvotechinfo.com
Last edited by hoonk; 05-10-2022 at 09:46 AM.
#3
Ignition Switch
The ignition switch does not require "programming", and your key can't be "programmed" . (you can "program" the car to accept the signal from your key if needed, with a download using VIDA when adding a new key, or in this case a new steering column lock.)
A new steering column lock does require a download using VIDA to make the key signal (picked up by the antenna ring in the ignition switch) be recognized. On the parts page the "SW" (#10 a SCL reload) is what is needed to make a new steering column lock work. They might charge maybe 3 hours installation and programming labor including the download, plus the software and $215 column lock. (warranty time for the column lock is ~1.2 hours, customer pay is more and downloads are usually 1 hour) So unfortunately that could easily be $800. You can do the download yourself - with a Vida subscription, an appropriate CPU to put Vida on and a (possibly factory only) DICE unit . Subscription info is at volvotechinfo.com
A new steering column lock does require a download using VIDA to make the key signal (picked up by the antenna ring in the ignition switch) be recognized. On the parts page the "SW" (#10 a SCL reload) is what is needed to make a new steering column lock work. They might charge maybe 3 hours installation and programming labor including the download, plus the software and $215 column lock. (warranty time for the column lock is ~1.2 hours, customer pay is more and downloads are usually 1 hour) So unfortunately that could easily be $800. You can do the download yourself - with a Vida subscription, an appropriate CPU to put Vida on and a (possibly factory only) DICE unit . Subscription info is at volvotechinfo.com
#4
#5
If your car has an immobilizer system - it's not going to be easy to circumvent. Usually impossible. Car makers do this with the intent to prevent cars from being stolen. (easily)
#7
I'm a little confused. Is the SCL (Steering Column Lock) failing? That's the (seriously over-complex) device that shoots a little tab into a notch in your steering column to keep the wheel from turning, and yes - on a V50 you'd need to get it programmed. OTOH, the usual failure is just getting gummed up, and can be fixed with a cleaning and re-lube (the first time I did this, it lasted over 3 years - I did have to re-do it for the car's new owner, but it's a 15 minute job).
And are you SURE that the ignition switch was REALLY the problem? If not, you might wanna consider putting the old one back in place and doing more troubleshooting and less check-writing. ;-)
And are you SURE that the ignition switch was REALLY the problem? If not, you might wanna consider putting the old one back in place and doing more troubleshooting and less check-writing. ;-)
#8
Ignition Switch
Thank you for your reply. You are right, we do not know if the steering column lock has failed. We changed the ignition switch because the car was intermittently not starting, but when we took it for two separate scans, there were no codes showing as to what the problem was. Finally it would not start at all. So we did some research ourselves and decided to change the ignition switch. After putting the new one in, the key got lodged in the barrel. We rang the volvo dealer for advice, and they said we would need to replace the steering column.
I guess it was a gamble to replace the ignition switch, but whatever choice we made it would have needed towing to a service centre. Just trying to minimise costs, but it will probably cost us more in the long term. BTW we did speak with the volvo dealer (we're in NZ) who was less than helpful and they just had a stab in the dark about what the problem could be too (obviously not wanting to service vehicles, just wanting to sell them). Thanks again for your advice.
I guess it was a gamble to replace the ignition switch, but whatever choice we made it would have needed towing to a service centre. Just trying to minimise costs, but it will probably cost us more in the long term. BTW we did speak with the volvo dealer (we're in NZ) who was less than helpful and they just had a stab in the dark about what the problem could be too (obviously not wanting to service vehicles, just wanting to sell them). Thanks again for your advice.
#9
I can't know how your troubleshooting process led you to replace the ignition switch, but there are a LOT of things that can cause intermittent starting (not the least being the very common starter solenoid getting sticky).
Just for giggles, the starter is not TOO hard to get to - you could try applying 12 volts (from the battery) to the "little wire" to see if that triggers the starter (or not). If it doesn't, check to see if the "big wire" has a solid 12 volts (there are a couple places between the battery and starter where that can go intermittent). If you DO have 12 volts on the "big wire" and putting 12 volts on the "little wire" doesn't kick the starter in, you have a bad starter.
Other than that, it's a matter of figuring out where in the (long, complicated) series of connections / components the "start signal" is getting lost. Seems like there should be instructions out there somewhere on how to test a key switch to see if your old one is actually bad (or can be put back in to eliminate at least that issue).
Just for giggles, the starter is not TOO hard to get to - you could try applying 12 volts (from the battery) to the "little wire" to see if that triggers the starter (or not). If it doesn't, check to see if the "big wire" has a solid 12 volts (there are a couple places between the battery and starter where that can go intermittent). If you DO have 12 volts on the "big wire" and putting 12 volts on the "little wire" doesn't kick the starter in, you have a bad starter.
Other than that, it's a matter of figuring out where in the (long, complicated) series of connections / components the "start signal" is getting lost. Seems like there should be instructions out there somewhere on how to test a key switch to see if your old one is actually bad (or can be put back in to eliminate at least that issue).
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