Recently bought my first Volvo. 1998 V70 GLT. So far, I absolutely love the car. I do most work myself, and I find this thing very easy to work on compared to my Audis.

Anyhow, the wife took the GLT out today, and called me. She said that as she slowed for a stop light, the car stalled on her. It immediately restarted, but stumbled and sputtered very bad. However, it was enough for her to get it off the road. After about 10 minutes, she tried to start the car again, and it started right up and ran smooth. She proceeded home again, and made it another ten miles, when it died again, while decelerating for a stoplight. Each time it would restart but stumble. Finally, I sent one of our repo\recovery trucks out to snag the car. When we got it back, I started it up. The car is stumbling and missing. Making a "flubbing" sound from the exhaust. VERY, VERY rich, gassy smell from exhaust. Exhaust gets black looking when it stumbles, and clears up intermittently. Runs a bit, then slowly stalls out.

Anyhow, I have already put new wires, distributor, plugs, cap, coil wire, etc on it. Just a week or so ago. I have a fuel filter on the way from FCP Groton. The filter that is presently on it, looks like an original. It is rusted beyond recognition, and the car has 139,000 miles on it. I would venture to guess that it is original. I knew it needed replaced, and that is why I had one on the way. The car didn't make it long enough. This might solve it? I hope. Any other ideas? Fuel pump relay? I will get a fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow.

I would appreciate suggestions from those who are more familiar with the Volvos than I am. Thanks!!!

 

We have a 98 V70 and had the exact same problem. Unplug the MAF sensor, It's the round plastic module attached to the air filter box that has a plug sticking out of it. Drive the car. If like ours, it will run a little rough until it warms up but the stalling should stop(as our did), If so, buy a new MAF sensor. If not, look at the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor.

 

Bobec,

Looks like you were DEAD ON! Thanks. After throwing a fuel pressure gauge on the rail last night and getting a good reading, I was at a a loss. I was really leaning towards fuel filter, pump, or relay.

Anyhow, I got frustrated and came back in the house, and saw your post. Ran back outside, car wouldn't start, at all. Unplugged the MAF, and it fired right up and settled down to a decent idle. Looks like the problem.

Now, the question is. Can I drive it a day or two like this? And, where is the best price on this part? Price seems a bit steep?

I have a local Volvo place called "The Volvo Shop" They have a complete junkyard of Volvos and a nice stock of new parts. I am fortunate to have them around. I will call them today.

 

Good news! I drove my 850 150mile with it unplugged when I left it unplugged by mistake and the V70 we left it unplugged until the new one arrived. There is cleaner, I've never tried it but I'm skeptical. The sensor is a sensitive device and it has a heater that burns off any microscopic particles when the car is first turned on.

I bought my new MAF here

p://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1998/volvo/v70/air_intake/air_mass_meter.html

 

Installed a new MAF tonight. IT DID NOT FIX IT. I can still disconnect the MAF and it will run fine. Will not run with the new MAF plugged in. Acts the same as the old one. I am bummed huge!

 

Sorry to hear this. This worked for us after I replaced the Idle air control (IAC) valve and the throttle position sensor that's why I thought it would be the fix. Are you getting any OBDII codes? is the check engine light on? we were getting a code mixture too rich... what ever that number is... and it sounds like you have a rich mixture if you're smelling gas, as we were.

This is a wild idea but easy to do.. try to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. After that I'd look at the IAC you can measure the voltage at plug terminals, If you don't have a manual I can look up the values and post them when I get home tonight. If you listen to the IAC with the car running is should be humming. It's the ony way the engine gets any air at idle.

Once again... sorry about steering you in the wrong direction I know how frustrating it is to keep buying parts.

 

Bobec,

You did not steer me wrong. It is almost common sense to believe it would be the MAF, if it runs after disconnecting it. My friend is a 20 year dealer tech, and says it sounds like a vacuum leak AFTER the MAF. Basically, like it is getting air somewhere that the MAF can't count.

I would appreciate you posting the values. I have no manuals yet.

For anyone else following this thread, here is the summary of where I am now.

Car will not start without "giving it gas", like an old carbuereted car. Once you get it started by pumping it, it will SOMETIMES idle between 900 and 1100 rpm. It basically sits and revs up, down, up down, up down. Betweeen 900 and 1100. When it warms up, it no longer wants to run. Once you unplug the BRAND NEW MAF, it will run like a champ. I have driven it 50 miles with MAF disconnected(but mileage sucks a bit).

Just to cover a few things. Car runs 35 to 38 pounds pressure on the fuel rail when at idle. Runs 45 pounds at engine rev. Seems good to me. Also, if it was a fuel pressure problem, I would surmise that disconnecting the MAF wouldn't help it any.

Any other ideas folks?

 

Your tech friend's comment inspired another thought. The flame trap, or PCV is located in the plastic elbow that connects to the throttle body. On my 850(same as our V70) the holder for the flame trap was broken and the o-ring seal was old and dry. Air could leak in at this point and by pass the MAF. I always pay close attention to the flame trap and inspect and clean almost every oil change.

As for the IAC.. between pins 3 and 2 you should see between 10-14 ohms. between pins 1 and 2 you should see 10 -14 ohms . Pin 2 is in the middle and pins 1 and 3 are outside. It is a mirror image of the wire end plug. The manual has a better diagram of the wire end so see below.

To check the voltage on the connector plug (wire side) ...the Pins are, looking into it (with the wire press to release bail on top) left to right 3,2,1. between pin 2(center pin) and ground you should see battery voltage with the key on. I saw slightly less. then check between pin1 and ground and it should be 6.0 and 8.5 volts.

The Chilton Manual has much more information about troubleshooting all of the systems on the car. Haynes is good for rebuilding info so if you get a manual I'd start with Chilton.

I hope this helps, I'll stay tuned. Best of luck

 

Just one more note. Once you get her running AudiDefector I think you'll be sold. I bought my 850 with about the same mileage and have driven her "hard" for over 81K. This weekend I'm plucking the engine, tearing it down to the bottom end and giving her a new lease on life. I swore I'd never own a brick but it is the best car I think I could ever own.

 

Bobec, Thank you for all of your advice. I got angry and took a sledge to this car today. She is out to pasture. Just kidding.

The problem is resolved. Solution: Don't buy discount auto store rebuilt MAF's. Pay the extra for Bosch.

I took it to "The Volvo Shop" today. He took one look at it, inspected for vacuum leaks. Everything was ok. Then, he asked me where I got the MAF at. When I told him that I got it at Autozone, he IMMEDIATELY went and took a MAF off of a yard V70. The car was instantly fixed. I took the rebuilt MAF back to Autozone and told them to jam it. While I was there, he retrieved my radio code from his dealer buddy and gave me the correct code, which worked. He installed my fuel filter, too. Out the door for under $150.00 including labor for all, and the cost of the MAF, used. I know, I know, you guys will bust my nuggets for getting a used one, but it works significantly better than the Autozone one. Oh yeah, and I got a rear seat for the wagon. I am now a 7 passenger! Woo hoo.

And, he quoted me $100 for my timing belt, parts and labor, so I think I will let him do it next week.

Nice to have a Volvo scrap yard that has been in business since the 1960's. Right down the road from my house. There must have been 300 Volvos on that property of all ages and models.

SCORE!

 

Great news!!! I took a sledge to my 850 today .... but it feels like she took a sledge to me. Yanking the engine is no easy job. Front wheel drive is good for driving but hell when it come to pulling the engine.

I hope this wine helps my sore body.

Enjoy your Volvo. Keep in touch.. this forum is great and I've become addicted. My girlfriend isn't as appreciative, I'm sure only until we have problem with her car.