Volvo V70 Super capacity, super looks, super performance... this wagon turns heads and can still get the job done.

CEL , P0420 & P0442 all related????

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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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79lilred's Avatar
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From: North GA - Gawd's Country!
Default CEL , P0420 & P0442 all related????

2001 V70 na (non-turbo) with 135K miles
CEL is on and am getting the above codes. Makes sense to me that a vacuum leak would also affect the O2 sensors, so started checking the easy stuff first. Thought this was going to be easy when right away I found gas cap o-ring gasket with a jillion cracks. Replaced the gasket and had Advance Auto clear the codes. CEL light came on less than a mile down the road and Adv Auto scanner confirmed same codes had set again.
Car runs great - no noticable decrease in MPG or performance.
Have been reading all posts I can find over past few days and found mult references to cracks in the J-hose at the charcoal canister (including where IPD site says this is culprit 90% of the time). Visual inspection does not show any cracks. Have just finished spraying all hoses around the canister and the gizmo the J-hose runs to, real good with carb cleaner to see if engine would stumble and it did not. Also sprayed vac line to the power brake booster at the booster and at the intake manifold.
Vac hose routing chart shows a "purge", "shut-off valve" and MAP-sensor". Should I spray these to check for vac leak? If so, where are they located?
I'm just about to pull my last 3 hairs out, so am open to any and all suggestions just short of having a car-b-que!
Thanks!
-steve
 
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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Hello, I was one of the "lucky" ones who had only a leaking "J" hose. Did you lower the exhaust down to spray the area or did you just shoot it around the best you could? There is a sensor/valve on the support web of the radiator's fan. You can see vacuum lines going to it. Also I recall that another of the EVAP system valves was atop the darn fuel tank.
I had success by removing the RR fender liner (drilling out the plastic rivets) to gain access to the cylindrical, black filter mounted near the filler neck. It has a tubing fitting which points down. I pushed a 20" long piece of garden hose onto the fitting (after boiling it for a few seconds to soften it) and blew into it. I could hear exactly where the leak was coming from. Replacement plastic rivets are readily available. Kira
 
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 06:43 AM
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appreciate the comments!
I did not lower exhaust when spraying the J-hose and charcoal canister area, but I feel I was able to soak the area pretty well by using a straw.
I can see the black filter mounted near the filler neck without having to remove any fender liner. Will go in search of a piece of hose that will fit.
A big question I have is whether these two codes can be realated.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Georgeandkira
I had success by removing the RR fender liner (drilling out the plastic rivets) to gain access to the cylindrical, black filter mounted near the filler neck. It has a tubing fitting which points down. I pushed a 20" long piece of garden hose onto the fitting (after boiling it for a few seconds to soften it) and blew into it. I could hear exactly where the leak was coming from. Replacement plastic rivets are readily available. Kira
Used long piece of heater hose to accomplish this and then put my thunb over the end. No leaks heard any where under back end of the car and the hose held pressure as long as I held my thumb over the hose.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 06:36 PM
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Hello, I don't know how easily an electrically controlled purge valve can be cleaned. Someone posted that they washed one out well with WD-40 and brought it back to life. I've seen schematics which showed one on top of the gas tank. I dare say getting to it would be the chore. The one on the radiator fan brace would present no trouble. Perhaps a smoke machine to search for the leak? Maybe the purging system wasn't actually drawing air in when you sprayed your carb cleaner? Keep in mind that lowering the exhaust system is very easy. The two large bolts at the end muffler/heat shield end and a simple sheet metal bridge are all you need to remove to let it down. The flex pipe has enough flexibility. Even then I had to loosen (I didn't need to remove) the mounting bolts which hold the canister in place to gain good working angles to see and remove the "J" hose. When I replaced mine I used little Ideal (worm) clamps. I used a deep socket with rubber bands around it to tighten the clamps. It's quite confined up there. If you didn't pivot the exhaust system down to gain access I have doubts about how much volatile carb cleaner got near any split hose in the first place. It was funny; all the hosing I saw was rugged stuff except the "J" hose. It was made of the cheap, flimsy, fake rubber I associate with the soft sandals called "jellys". If I have to do it again I will either a) cop out and buy another "J" hose because I'm lazy, or b) fabricate my own out of good strong fuel line. Good luck and tell us what you do or learn. Kira
 
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