Computer will not read for state inspection
 

Went for an inspection, and the check engine light was on, the inspector said fix whatever is wrong first and bring it back. It was a temp sensor code, it said that the temp changed too fast, well I'm from Houston and had just come from the frozen north near zero,(this was last Christmas) thats when this light came on. It did the same thing the year before, and the light went off on its own. So I unhooked the batt. cable and, let the computer reset, I was told that I must drive it a 100 miles before the codes could be read again, well I did that along with pulling fuses, pulling computer modules out and back in, still no reading for computer. {I did not change the temp sensor}

Long story short The OBDII manual mode -Readiness test status results- only shows 3 status Misfire status-complete, Fuel status-complete, Comprehensive status-complete ,The rest are either not available or incomplete.
I am going to take it and have a diagnostics check done.

Some times to takes over 1000 miles for the readiness to be completed. The cars are so picky that some states have actually stopped waiting for readiness on volvo's. They allow them to pass even if the readiness is not completed.

Thanks! This car has been sitting for this reason, I have 600 miles to go.

it doesnt take 1000 miles.

actually, to set the readiness monitors are pretty simple and can be done in about 5 hours or so.

there is a service procedure for this

Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.
Turn off the air conditioning.
Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can stop safely at the side of the road.

1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.

This procedure must be performed TWICE from a cold start to set the readiness codes.

i have 2 different procedures they are both pretty much the same, however the other requires you to accelerate from stop to 2000 rpm and brake 4 times in a row once you complete the last step. after you complete this take the car home normally, park it for at least 3-4 hours and the repeat the procedure. this works best when you have a scanner on hand...... WHATEVER YOU DO.... DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, YOU WILL HAVE TO RESTART THE PROCESS, ALSO IF YOU GET A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DURING THIS PROCESS YOU WILL NEED TO FIX WHATEVER THE PROBLEM IS PRIOR TO DOING THE PROCEDURE AGAIN

It usually takes the average driver about 1k without trying all of it by the drive cycle.
Sometimes it even takes longer. Like I said above many states have given Volvo a bypass on having to do it on the state inspection.

why wait when theres a procedure that can get it done quickly? this procedure puts less miles on your car ( hoping it runs all tests with 1000 miles ) and you can do it without running through several tanks of gas. once i tried driving the car 200+ miles a day for 2 weeks straight, never got the monitors to run on my 96 960.

i dont know about other states, but here in california your monitors dont run and you might as well have a check engine light on cause its an automatic fail

True but the drive cycle does not always work either when doing exactly what the list says. Been there to many times.

its worked like a champ for me every time.

I just went through this and could not replicate the drive cycle. Twice in almost exactly 1000 miles I have gotten all but 2 monitors set to ready. First I got a small evap code, fixed that and now last night after 200-300 miles, I was back to 2 not ready.

In TX, up to year 2000, you can have 2 not ready, so I went in this morning and got it passed! Only took 7 months of messing with the car, but it's now legal again.

98 v70, etc are on the EPA exclusion list for ready status, and can be allowed to pass a tailpipe test. Unfortunately, mine's AWD, so i couldn't do that either (no awd emissions dynos).

To the OP, just take your scanner with you and keep checking the readiness until only 2 are not ready, then head to the nearest station. Don't forget to make sure your parking brake holds the car with light throttle, your wipers are not torn, no brake or power steering leaks, tires above the wear bars and all lights work. In TX, you pay pass or fail, but you have 15 days to return to the station you used to retest any failed items for free (1 time).

all in one day?
 

Does this procedure have to be done in one day or can I do it the first time on one day, park the car and then do it again the next?
Tnx for any help
Neteret

you should be ok doing it over two days. Many people don't bother doing the proper cycle, they just use normal day to day driving to teach the system.

Tnx for the reply. I tried a sample of the service procedure and could not, for the life of me, maintain the highest RPM stated for the amount of time without going past 100 MPH. I don't drive that fast ever. Instead I did do a bunch of jack rabbit type starts from a standstill, drove slow, speeded up to 80 MPH briefly, slowed, etc. I hope that plus racking up mileage does the trick. Building up that many miles is hard work! This forum is great. I'm glad I found it.

A thread resurrection of nearly 135 months! (11 years, 2 months +)

What do you suppose would've transpired had the OP simply replaced his faulty CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) upon its first failure?

LOL, he'd never have learned about how to do a driving cycle to relearn the fuzzy logic :-)

I have another question about the computer not reading: how can I prevent this from happening again? How far to drive and how often to keep the computer 'reading ready' at all times? Would driving, say, 100 miles once a month do it, maybe 50 miles one way, a few miles of stop and go, maybe stop for lunch and then another 50 miles do it? Less? More?

the only time you'd have to consider the process is when you disconnect the battery without using a backup 12V source should you need to change batteries etc. On older cars its not such a big deal - I've never bothered to do a driving cycle after disconnecting a battery. I just drive a normal varied cycle with mix city/open road anyways and the cars learn on their own. On newer cars with quite a few more memory devices (ie radio presets, window position sensors etc), using a backup 12V source is becoming a new best practice.

comprehensive control monitor not ready
 

Hi I see in this tread that you are discussing comprehensive control monitor not ready. I have a similar issue. I have done the drive at least 12 times and I get everything green except CCM which I believe is comprehensive control monitor. Volvo wants almost 1000 to look at the car. But it is a 2001 S40 and I have replaced many parts. I visited two different Volvo dealers to ask what the cost would be to fix this issue and they have no Idea what the CCM red blinking is. Has anyone had this issue and how did u fix it?
here is pic from my Snap-on blue point status check? Also I have reset everything and had all turn green again but the CCM Also it does not have and DTC codes had check engine a couple of months ago but not now because i replaced a lot of engine parts, myself,
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/volvofo...001494765e.jpg

Quite the nightmare: unhooked battery to drain memory and turn check engine light off. Began to drive, as erroneously told, at 65 for ten minutes, pull over turn off and wait ten minutes, and repeat. Did multiple days of that, and still had Cat and Evap. Then another day the Oxy went on. Then the Oxy went off, and then after almost two weeks of driving my little diagnostic tool showed green(!) with not blocking monitors, run it to the smog and they show that the Cat and Evap went back on. Called Bureau of Automotive Repair (California) and they suggested my battery was too beat and when it bottoms out it screws the monitors. Got new battery, drove another day, and no go. Then BAR said I had to do the specific drive cycle. Found that here on site, which is 20 minutes at 45-50mph--and I'm like where the heck am I going to be able to do that? Found a stretch of road, did a couple of those cycles, but still no go. Now I'm going to try the drive cycle posted above:

1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.


Wish me luck: good thing is, with patience over the phone, I got to the higher ups at the BAR and the official decided he would get an extension on registration to do cycles.