Computer will not read for state inspection
#1
Computer will not read for state inspection
Went for an inspection, and the check engine light was on, the inspector said fix whatever is wrong first and bring it back. It was a temp sensor code, it said that the temp changed too fast, well I'm from Houston and had just come from the frozen north near zero,(this was last Christmas) thats when this light came on. It did the same thing the year before, and the light went off on its own. So I unhooked the batt. cable and, let the computer reset, I was told that I must drive it a 100 miles before the codes could be read again, well I did that along with pulling fuses, pulling computer modules out and back in, still no reading for computer. {I did not change the temp sensor}
Long story short The OBDII manual mode -Readiness test status results- only shows 3 status Misfire status-complete, Fuel status-complete, Comprehensive status-complete ,The rest are either not available or incomplete.
I am going to take it and have a diagnostics check done.
Long story short The OBDII manual mode -Readiness test status results- only shows 3 status Misfire status-complete, Fuel status-complete, Comprehensive status-complete ,The rest are either not available or incomplete.
I am going to take it and have a diagnostics check done.
#2
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Cityslickers (08-17-2022)
#4
it doesnt take 1000 miles.
actually, to set the readiness monitors are pretty simple and can be done in about 5 hours or so.
there is a service procedure for this
Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.
Turn off the air conditioning.
Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can stop safely at the side of the road.
1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.
This procedure must be performed TWICE from a cold start to set the readiness codes.
i have 2 different procedures they are both pretty much the same, however the other requires you to accelerate from stop to 2000 rpm and brake 4 times in a row once you complete the last step. after you complete this take the car home normally, park it for at least 3-4 hours and the repeat the procedure. this works best when you have a scanner on hand...... WHATEVER YOU DO.... DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, YOU WILL HAVE TO RESTART THE PROCESS, ALSO IF YOU GET A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DURING THIS PROCESS YOU WILL NEED TO FIX WHATEVER THE PROBLEM IS PRIOR TO DOING THE PROCEDURE AGAIN
actually, to set the readiness monitors are pretty simple and can be done in about 5 hours or so.
there is a service procedure for this
Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.
Turn off the air conditioning.
Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can stop safely at the side of the road.
1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.
This procedure must be performed TWICE from a cold start to set the readiness codes.
i have 2 different procedures they are both pretty much the same, however the other requires you to accelerate from stop to 2000 rpm and brake 4 times in a row once you complete the last step. after you complete this take the car home normally, park it for at least 3-4 hours and the repeat the procedure. this works best when you have a scanner on hand...... WHATEVER YOU DO.... DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, YOU WILL HAVE TO RESTART THE PROCESS, ALSO IF YOU GET A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DURING THIS PROCESS YOU WILL NEED TO FIX WHATEVER THE PROBLEM IS PRIOR TO DOING THE PROCEDURE AGAIN
#5
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Cityslickers (08-17-2022)
#6
why wait when theres a procedure that can get it done quickly? this procedure puts less miles on your car ( hoping it runs all tests with 1000 miles ) and you can do it without running through several tanks of gas. once i tried driving the car 200+ miles a day for 2 weeks straight, never got the monitors to run on my 96 960.
i dont know about other states, but here in california your monitors dont run and you might as well have a check engine light on cause its an automatic fail
i dont know about other states, but here in california your monitors dont run and you might as well have a check engine light on cause its an automatic fail
#9
I just went through this and could not replicate the drive cycle. Twice in almost exactly 1000 miles I have gotten all but 2 monitors set to ready. First I got a small evap code, fixed that and now last night after 200-300 miles, I was back to 2 not ready.
In TX, up to year 2000, you can have 2 not ready, so I went in this morning and got it passed! Only took 7 months of messing with the car, but it's now legal again.
98 v70, etc are on the EPA exclusion list for ready status, and can be allowed to pass a tailpipe test. Unfortunately, mine's AWD, so i couldn't do that either (no awd emissions dynos).
To the OP, just take your scanner with you and keep checking the readiness until only 2 are not ready, then head to the nearest station. Don't forget to make sure your parking brake holds the car with light throttle, your wipers are not torn, no brake or power steering leaks, tires above the wear bars and all lights work. In TX, you pay pass or fail, but you have 15 days to return to the station you used to retest any failed items for free (1 time).
In TX, up to year 2000, you can have 2 not ready, so I went in this morning and got it passed! Only took 7 months of messing with the car, but it's now legal again.
98 v70, etc are on the EPA exclusion list for ready status, and can be allowed to pass a tailpipe test. Unfortunately, mine's AWD, so i couldn't do that either (no awd emissions dynos).
To the OP, just take your scanner with you and keep checking the readiness until only 2 are not ready, then head to the nearest station. Don't forget to make sure your parking brake holds the car with light throttle, your wipers are not torn, no brake or power steering leaks, tires above the wear bars and all lights work. In TX, you pay pass or fail, but you have 15 days to return to the station you used to retest any failed items for free (1 time).
#10
all in one day?
it doesnt take 1000 miles.
actually, to set the readiness monitors are pretty simple and can be done in about 5 hours or so.
there is a service procedure for this
Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.
Turn off the air conditioning.
Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can stop safely at the side of the road.
1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.
This procedure must be performed TWICE from a cold start to set the readiness codes.
i have 2 different procedures they are both pretty much the same, however the other requires you to accelerate from stop to 2000 rpm and brake 4 times in a row once you complete the last step. after you complete this take the car home normally, park it for at least 3-4 hours and the repeat the procedure. this works best when you have a scanner on hand...... WHATEVER YOU DO.... DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, YOU WILL HAVE TO RESTART THE PROCESS, ALSO IF YOU GET A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DURING THIS PROCESS YOU WILL NEED TO FIX WHATEVER THE PROBLEM IS PRIOR TO DOING THE PROCEDURE AGAIN
actually, to set the readiness monitors are pretty simple and can be done in about 5 hours or so.
there is a service procedure for this
Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.
Turn off the air conditioning.
Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can stop safely at the side of the road.
1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.
This procedure must be performed TWICE from a cold start to set the readiness codes.
i have 2 different procedures they are both pretty much the same, however the other requires you to accelerate from stop to 2000 rpm and brake 4 times in a row once you complete the last step. after you complete this take the car home normally, park it for at least 3-4 hours and the repeat the procedure. this works best when you have a scanner on hand...... WHATEVER YOU DO.... DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, YOU WILL HAVE TO RESTART THE PROCESS, ALSO IF YOU GET A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DURING THIS PROCESS YOU WILL NEED TO FIX WHATEVER THE PROBLEM IS PRIOR TO DOING THE PROCEDURE AGAIN
Tnx for any help
Neteret
#11
#12
Tnx for the reply. I tried a sample of the service procedure and could not, for the life of me, maintain the highest RPM stated for the amount of time without going past 100 MPH. I don't drive that fast ever. Instead I did do a bunch of jack rabbit type starts from a standstill, drove slow, speeded up to 80 MPH briefly, slowed, etc. I hope that plus racking up mileage does the trick. Building up that many miles is hard work! This forum is great. I'm glad I found it.
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Cityslickers (08-17-2022)
#13
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Philippa Mayall (07-28-2021)
#15
I have another question about the computer not reading: how can I prevent this from happening again? How far to drive and how often to keep the computer 'reading ready' at all times? Would driving, say, 100 miles once a month do it, maybe 50 miles one way, a few miles of stop and go, maybe stop for lunch and then another 50 miles do it? Less? More?
#16
the only time you'd have to consider the process is when you disconnect the battery without using a backup 12V source should you need to change batteries etc. On older cars its not such a big deal - I've never bothered to do a driving cycle after disconnecting a battery. I just drive a normal varied cycle with mix city/open road anyways and the cars learn on their own. On newer cars with quite a few more memory devices (ie radio presets, window position sensors etc), using a backup 12V source is becoming a new best practice.
#17
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Bergen county , New Jersey
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comprehensive control monitor not ready
Hi I see in this tread that you are discussing comprehensive control monitor not ready. I have a similar issue. I have done the drive at least 12 times and I get everything green except CCM which I believe is comprehensive control monitor. Volvo wants almost 1000 to look at the car. But it is a 2001 S40 and I have replaced many parts. I visited two different Volvo dealers to ask what the cost would be to fix this issue and they have no Idea what the CCM red blinking is. Has anyone had this issue and how did u fix it?
here is pic from my Snap-on blue point status check? Also I have reset everything and had all turn green again but the CCM Also it does not have and DTC codes had check engine a couple of months ago but not now because i replaced a lot of engine parts, myself,
here is pic from my Snap-on blue point status check? Also I have reset everything and had all turn green again but the CCM Also it does not have and DTC codes had check engine a couple of months ago but not now because i replaced a lot of engine parts, myself,
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cathyssocool
1998-2000 model year V70
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06-02-2018 12:19 PM