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Hey guys new here, have my eyes on a v70, there’s 2 available in my area, both a 2001, one is a single owner with 324,000 miles, it’s a turbo, white paint, has had a new timing belt, timing tensioners and oil rings. No codes and in great condition listed for $2450. Other is a 01 with 179k miles, gray paint, in great condition, non turbo version listed at $3400. Also any tips for what to look for when buying a v70.
have my eyes on a v70, there’s 2 available in my area, both a 2001,
Also any tips for what to look for when buying a v70.
I owned a Volvo shop for 40 years. About 2006 the "new" 2001 Volvo v/xv70s started having big problems. They were not like earlier Volvos - the 01's were breaking all the time. I had customers in every other month with their 2001's with another $1000 problem. Personally I purchased several with major engine or transmission problems for usually $500. And had to spend much more that the car could ever be worth ( with my free labor and wholesale part prices) to keep those cars running.
I would not recommend anyone purchasing any 20 year old Volvo - Unless it's $500 - you will regret it. If you only have $3000 to spend on a car - but an old Toyota. Seriously.
I owned a Volvo shop for 40 years. About 2006 the "new" 2001 Volvo v/xv70s started having big problems. They were not like earlier Volvos - the 01's were breaking all the time. I had customers in every other month with their 2001's with another $1000 problem. Personally I purchased several with major engine or transmission problems for usually $500. And had to spend much more that the car could ever be worth ( with my free labor and wholesale part prices) to keep those cars running.
I would not recommend anyone purchasing any 20 year old Volvo - Unless it's $500 - you will regret it. If you only have $3000 to spend on a car - but an old Toyota. Seriously.
how about the 98 v50? Are those problematic as well?
Yes to what Hoonk said.
There'll be shocks + struts on either car.
It's funny how a dealer will know about a timing belt and related hardware but NEVER have any idea about any other maintenance.
The rubber bushings in the control arms will have perished and while you can live with a vague rear end, the front control arms will have you wandering about.
Remember, all this stuff can be called maintenance items and are routinely changed by people. In your case it'd all have to be done essentially all at once.
A turbocharged car with 324K is something I'd have to take on a 1,000 mile drive just to see if I'd want it for $500.
Volvo fuel pumps are hearty things but come 324K....
If either transmission was owned by people who believed in the "sealed for life" claim, it's near death.
Also, the "oil ring" repair sounds a little too localized.
See how long they stay unsold. If the weather warms up, take one or both out for a long drive and get 'em fully warmed up. This is when the transmission will talk to you by missing shifts and clunking during easy, suburban driving.
Agree on the $500 OK.
Last edited by Georgeandkira; Mar 24, 2021 at 06:50 AM.
Someone WILL buy those cars. And spend more than they could have dreamed would be needed to keep them running, and live with the other stuff that's worn out or does not work. Until something big breaks (transmission, radiator/headgasket) and it goes to the junkyard for $100. Or "Dude, I'll part it out in my driveway and make my money back".
Not sure if I agree about staying away from buying an older Volvos - I think the message is really that if you buy an older car, expect it to need repairs. If you can do the work yourself then you can shop more agressively. If you will send the car out to a shop for everything, then the economics point to buying a newer model. More important for any used car purchase is to see if you can find the repair history and if unsure, invest the $100 or so for a professional inspection where they put the car on a lift to look around. Other thing to do is do your research for each model of interest. Say you find a nice 2012 S60. Your research will point to known issues with piston/ring problems leading to oil consumption. This and other forums are a good resource for that.