I had posted this on another Volvo Forum but had a few people tell me to post here that I would get more help...so hopefully they are correct.

Ok this saga started a few months ago, I have a 98 V70R with about a 150,000 miles on it, the timing chain was replaced at 117,000
It is Not a daily driver, I have taken it on long trips from Ft laud to Philly Non stop up and back and it ran FLAWLESS, after that trip a few 600 mile trips also flawless. Then I just used her on the weekends and then just here and there...but always started once every few weeks and driven around a little...always perfect.

Well I went to pressure clean the paver driveway and moved her across the street, about 20-30 minutes later started her up to move her back and she started to idle real strange...very rough and an up and down idle....started to back it up and she stalled out. Started up and it still ran rough and smelled funny out of the exhaust and the exhaust was smoking. Shut it off and they tried starting it again and same thing.

I got a code reader hooked it up and at first got the 0103 code (MAF sensor). There were a few times that I started it and it tried to run normal/idle normal for a few seconds then would not hold idle and even ran rough when pressing the accelerator pedal then it would die. I unhooked the MAF sensor and it still ran bad and actually would not even really idle at all.

Anyway after the intial Code reader hookup I unplugged it and tried to start the car... same thing and when I hooked the reader up got the 0103 code but also 0203 0243 codes. But in reading a lot of people say that the Maf sensor can cause other codes to flash. I also got the 0410 code but most chalk that up to the gas cap as I had that code before when the car ran perfect...since the engine light was on and I wanted to know why.

Well I went away for a month and a half for the holidays and when I got back I got a Brand new Bosch MAF sensor but before I put it in I tried one more time to start the car and see if anything had changed...but now it would not even start. So I changed the MAF sensor and went to start the car and it wont start at all. Checked to make sure all lines etc where connected and nothing...I put the old MAF back in and still nothing. So I changed the MAF sensor and the car wont start? Now before I left for a month plus it would at least start but since I got back it wont even start and now not sure what to do?

PS I also unhooked the battery after changing the MAF sensor to charge it and then reconnected it. I also put 3 gallons of fresh gas in the tank...there were a couple of cranks where it tried to catch and actually (caught) it seemed once for literally 1 second
Any help is appreciated as I am not sure what to do at this point.

Thanks

Also no I have no run a code scanner on it since I changed the MAF sensor as I loaned it out and cant get a hold of the guy.

• Quote
• MultiQuote
• Report

 

No Ideas at all? Anyone?

 

Hi and welcome to the forum.

First and foremost, what year is your car? That makes a big difference in the trouble shooting. From what you wrote, my guess would be '98.

If that is the case, I would ask what is your battery is new/charged? Also since you had a maf code you likely have some sort of air control problem. I'm not really up on any MAF codes so I wont try to go there but the most common problems with rough idling in these cars is vacuum problems. You need to check and double check for a vacuum leak. Check the elbows, tubes, hoses and the connections near the ICV (idle control valve). The ICV has a hose at the bottom that may be torn or loose.

Second thing you must make sure you have good fuel pressure. When you try start the car the fuel pump will turn on while cranking. When you let the key go you should hear the pump run for about 4 seconds. The sound will come from the rear passenger seat area so you have to listen close. If you do not hear the fuel pump, you likely have a fuel pump relay problem or a bad fuel pump. The early Volvo's (P2 platform) the computers did/do not monitor fuel pressure so it will not toss a code. Some people reach to the right side of the fuel rail and poke the valve stem that allows you to read the fuel pressure to see if fuel sprays out of it real strong, if not, just a trickle, you likely have fuel pressure/delivery problem. If you have fuel pressure problems, the most common issue is the relay, then pump on a 85/15 ratio.

Post back after you check that.

 

Yes it is a 98 I don't hear the pump coming on but in all honesty I have never heard the pump at all? I checked the fuse and it was fine...how do I check a relay to see if it functions properly? If I need a new one or should just keep a spare is there a correct brand to buy? I looked for the check valve on the fuel rail but could not find it? also tried to find a diagram of where the ICV was but could not find one

 

Man, you do need help.

Recline the seat back, try to start the car for a second, lean back in the seat and you should hear the pump whine for about 4 seconds. If you do NOT hear the pump, it is likely NOT coming on.

You can jump the fuel pump relay slot to make the pump come on. You can also pull the relay and plug it back in and see if the car starts. Rumor has it that solider inside the relay breaks and causes it not to work properly. If you pull it and plug it back in, it MIGHT cause the relay to make it's connection again.

Here is a picture of the fuel pump relay. You will have to pull the 4 screws to get the top of the fuse panel off to access the pump.

Number 103 here:






The idle control valve is between the two yellow "0" here:



The fuel pressure port on the end of the fuel rail is here. The green line is along the fuel rail and the valve to check the fuel pressure is circuled in green:

 

LOL well yes I need help but not helpless...but I have found on this car it is a lot Smarter and faster to ask where something is than to poke around and do something wrong. I was smart enough after I replaced the MAF and still no start to lift the fuse panel top(didnt need to take the bolts off, my panel I could lift the top off and access everything) I looked on the cover...found anything related to the fuel pump/system and checked it. Pulled the fuse was good, did take the 103 relay out...put it back in but still nothing.

So I guess next step is to try to crank the car a few times, then go under the hood and push in on the valve and see if I get a spray of fuel or just some drops. If drops then we have a fuel issue...if spray then fuel is good and it has to be something else.

If there is a spray of fuel should I then just go ahead and replace the ICV...can a bad ICV Keep the car from even starting? Thanks for the very detailed help

 

PS I had an additional Relay panel I guess you would call it now in looking at the diagram you showed. As I was able to lift the panel to access the fuses...the 103 relay I checked was not there but in the engine bay in the box labeled main fuses...there was a relay in there that I think said 103 as well and the cover said it related to the fuel pump.
So are there more than one of them?

 

Check and see if fuel comes out.
Also check for spark. I wonder if the cam sensor went bad. I have seen a few more than normal lately.
The cam sensor is on the back of the motor on the exhaust cam.

 

Can Sensor:

 

Ok question
If the fuel pump relay or fuel pump where bad would it not throw out a code on the OBD reader? also if the cam sensor was bad would that not also throw a code?

 

Neither will always throw codes.

 

A bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay will definitely not throw a code. Cam sensor should, but...

Fuel pump relay or fuel pump failures are pretty common and relatively easy to diagnose; i would ck that first; see post #8 below for more info:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...estions-55124/

 

Hear's my deal, it's been a few days and one of the first things I suggested was to make sure you have fuel pressure. It could be 3 or 4 different things. It has to be trouble shoot, one thing at a time.

We all know you need fuel, spark and air. We would like it to be a common, easy, inexpensive problem. To be honest with you, you may have a major problem like broken timing belt or bad/broken exhaust valve.

Make sure your fuel pump is working and go from there.

 

ok you mentioned there was a way to jump the fuel pump relay Is there a sticky for it somewhere? I did a search but didnt find one
I will open the gas filler and have someone turn the ign key on and see if I hear anything...or lay on the back seat and see if I hear anything.
I will also try to bump the engine and then depress the valve on the fuel rail and see if I get a spray or a drizzle out of it.
And then post what I find and go from there

 

Well, when you first turn the key on two things come on, the icv and I believe the fuel pump. You may not have to bump the starter for the fuel pump to prime for a few seconds. Not 100% sure. When I get back from running an errand I'll look up the post about jumping the fuel pump relay. I think you can jump wire from 87 to 15 but let me make sure. It will cause the fuel pump to turn on, not sure if it will let you start the car. The think abou it is that the pump may come on and only put out 15 psi instead of 43 psi which is needed to run the car. So, one, you can see if the pump is even coming on, two you need to know that you are getting full pressure.

 

Thanks very much
no rush I am thinking that while I am doing this I should go ahead and replace all the vacum lines and also the turbo hoses/lines

Is there also a schematic for those...and is IPD the only one to buy the kit from?

 

Mutant, you might want to make sure the car will start and run before you go doing upgrades.

 

Ok, I think I found it. It's pins 18 and 57. So, pull the relay, install a wire from pins 15 and 87, then turn the key to run, you should hear your pump. If not, it's likely that your pump is bad. You can also test the wire to make sure they are getting power.

If you hear the pump, you should check fuel pressure to make sure you are getting enough. If you hear the pump and you are getting good pressure, you likely have a bad relay.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...p-relay-56681/

My guess is that one of the links on GDogs page had the same info.

 

Ok, change to the change. I just read a few post that GDog linked to and went and looked at a relay I have handy and the RELAY POST are 15 & 87. So I just corrected the above post. Also, instructions from a manual said the slots in the relay socket is 1 & 3.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...talling-55849/

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...o-start-55856/

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ont-run-54414/

The sad thing about many threads is that the op never comes back and let people know if they ever fixed the car.

 

Thanks as soon as I get back I will give it a try...I really appreciate your help
I think I am going to stop a Harbor Freight and pick up a fuel pressure gauge and instead of just checking for spray see what the pressure is.
And I asked about the lines and such is because the car ran flawless before this so