2010 remote dead? Tried new batteries
#1
2010 remote dead? Tried new batteries
Idiotic remote stopped working after Urban Assault Vehicle not used for five days. New batteries no help. Any way to check if UAV battery (new) is still good without crawling under, removing the splash panel and checking the battery at the starter? Any way to check the remote actually works? At least Porsche remotes have an LED to show it is transmitting.
No, do not have mechanical key, dealer never gave it to me. Might have to print a lock cover so I can use a mechanical key. Pulled the lock previously, same old stacked plate design like used on house doors. These remotes are stupid, they draw power from the remote whenever you are near the UAV.
No, do not have mechanical key, dealer never gave it to me. Might have to print a lock cover so I can use a mechanical key. Pulled the lock previously, same old stacked plate design like used on house doors. These remotes are stupid, they draw power from the remote whenever you are near the UAV.
#3
Idiotic remote stopped working after Urban Assault Vehicle not used for five days. New batteries no help. Any way to check if UAV battery (new) is still good without crawling under, removing the splash panel and checking the battery at the starter? Any way to check the remote actually works? At least Porsche remotes have an LED to show it is transmitting.
No, do not have mechanical key, dealer never gave it to me. Might have to print a lock cover so I can use a mechanical key. Pulled the lock previously, same old stacked plate design like used on house doors. These remotes are stupid, they draw power from the remote whenever you are near the UAV.
No, do not have mechanical key, dealer never gave it to me. Might have to print a lock cover so I can use a mechanical key. Pulled the lock previously, same old stacked plate design like used on house doors. These remotes are stupid, they draw power from the remote whenever you are near the UAV.
I take it you've been driving this "Urban Assault Vehicle" with just one remote. No backup? Try hiring a locksmith to open the doort. Put the fob in the slot and see if the car will start from RFID. If they're similar to other vehicles, part of the remote is for getting access to the car (doors, liftgate, etc) and the other (i.e. RFID) is for provide the necessary encrypted code to start the car.
If you don't want to fool with a locksmith, then you only other option is to flatbed it to a dealer. Good luck!
#4
As I said, I never got the mechanical key from the "dealer". Tried getting another remote before this, "dealer" was not particularly interested and have to bring the UAV in for them to program it to the key at a stupid cost for a couple minutes of programming.
The remote was working the previous week. I doubt the contacts corroded sitting in a drawer. Swapped batteries, replaced them, nothing works and no way to tell. Only one of the batteries operates the remote function.
Volvo does not make batteries, they rebrand them and charge a ridiculous price.
I should have taken the lock to a locksmith when I had it out to get a mechanical key. Could drill out the lock so I can try the remote in the slot.
I would flat bed this thing to a junk yard before a "dealer".
The remote was working the previous week. I doubt the contacts corroded sitting in a drawer. Swapped batteries, replaced them, nothing works and no way to tell. Only one of the batteries operates the remote function.
Volvo does not make batteries, they rebrand them and charge a ridiculous price.
I should have taken the lock to a locksmith when I had it out to get a mechanical key. Could drill out the lock so I can try the remote in the slot.
I would flat bed this thing to a junk yard before a "dealer".
#6
I can believe that - Why didn't the seller give you a mechanical key when you purchased the car? Every car I've purchased (from a dealer, not an individual) has given me at least 2 complete keys and every car I've sold or traded has had at least two keys. Sure the $500 01xc70 with a bad transmission only came with one key but it was a $500 car.
#7
"dealer" gave one remote without metal key. Long story, purchasing as agent for relative, "dealer" put my name on the title which had to fix through DuMbV. Got it back because they bought a new UAV. Been trying to fix the misfire on cylinder 6 (not plugs, not coil, swapped injector and waiting for code to clear or move to another cylinder). Let sit for five days.
Found problem - PoC car killed the new battery. Charging it now. Nothing left on. "dealer" charged $280 for "anti-theft" device. Turned out to be a lojack which does not work because they are registered to the original owner. Disconnected it but may have some other power draw.
Relative texted that "dealer" said the GPS will kill the battery. Must be one hell of a power draw to kill a car battery in five days.
Found problem - PoC car killed the new battery. Charging it now. Nothing left on. "dealer" charged $280 for "anti-theft" device. Turned out to be a lojack which does not work because they are registered to the original owner. Disconnected it but may have some other power draw.
Relative texted that "dealer" said the GPS will kill the battery. Must be one hell of a power draw to kill a car battery in five days.
#8
Found the problem, Piece of Crap garmin was drawing almost 4.5 amperes. Ripped it out of the dash. Where was is transmitting to, the moon?
Found I can get a mechanical key for $5. Will pull the lock and see how much a locksmith wants. Otherwise I will cut it myself. Remote with mechanical key is $40 but needs "dealer" programming, not happening.
Found I can get a mechanical key for $5. Will pull the lock and see how much a locksmith wants. Otherwise I will cut it myself. Remote with mechanical key is $40 but needs "dealer" programming, not happening.
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