I have an old laptop with Win 7 on it. I want VIDA software to install on this old laptop. The laptop already has VM software on it. Any Idea how I go about doing this?

 

If it's win 7 PRO just install a copy of 2014d and apply the hack - It will work without using your VM. 2014 won't install on a 7 home machine directly. That version of Vida was designed to work with IE 9 i believe - It runs with IE 10 with no problem. (prevent IE from automatically installing new versions by unchecking the box in the "about internet explorer" tab) You may have problems using IE 11.

At least 3gb RAM is required for the install also.

 

thank you

 

Do you have any suggestions as to the best place to buy VIDA from? I have read a couple of horror stories .
thanks

 

Most clone Dice units come with a (maybe) installable/working hacked copy of VIDA.

volvodiag.com offers something.

Or check post #4 of this thread

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/v.../#post-8045929

 

In your knowledgeable Volvo xc60 and humble opinion, do you believe, or have seen that, VIDA + DICE is capable of identifying a parasitic drain coming from a module? Maybe put another way....can VIDA + DICE display that a voltage/current is being drawn once the particular module has gone into a "sleep mode"? Does VIDA + DICE even show that a module has gone into "sleep mode? Because I have pulled ALL FUSES and RELAYS (twice) and my Fluke meter says all those items have not contributed to my battery drain, I am looking for an alternate solution. My parasitic drain when first seen, is extremely close to a 4 amp draw. After sleep mode, about 10 minutes later, my continuous fluctuating / oscillating drain is from 0855mA all the way down to 0018 mA. This to me, suggest that one of the modules are not staying in "sleep mode". Its as if there is a leaking electronic component that is building and discharging itself.

 

Have not seen that function in VIDA. Vida talks to the modules in the car with the key on (and I usually have the engine running unless programming or other reasons). And the dice unit is powered by the car -

There was talk years ago about the satellite radio module causing battery voltage problems - but never had to diagnose and fix that myself.

If you can find it and bypass it in the fiber optic network and disconnect it electrically, would be a test - if you simply disconnect the optic cable - nothing in the infotainment network will work. You'll have to bypass the sat module somehow. (thread below mentions a "loop cable" for that purpose)

Here's a related post

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ocation-99659/

Looks like your rdar module is located near the rear seatback as shown below. (the removal instructions do come from VIDA, network diagram from the wiring diagram (dotted lines indicate possible modules, some you don't have like Phone, rear seat entertainment, tv) - wiring can be found a volvodiag.com)

 

When your hot your HOT. When your not your NOT. Well you're HOT! The RDAR module was the culprit. Once I removed the connectors and waited for sleep mode to kick in, my reading went down to 0008 mA. After discovering (thanks to you) the location of the RDAR and seeing that it had eliminated the parasitic drain..... online I saw an article that this is a class action suit still pending. I am ordering the cable loop as of this writing. I appreciate your help. This 2013 xc60 has only 74K mileage and I suspect that the previous owner had many a dead battery issues and that is why the mileage was very low and he wanted to sell. Once again thank you.

 

not sure what happened, but I checked last night and the battery (12.66V) was not draining. I got up this morning and battery was at 12.1V. started the car up and my alternator was at 14.8VDC. It was almost as if my Voltage regulator was going to high. I shut down the car again and then the alt was at 13.8VDC. Now here is the kicker, My current draw with the RDAR power and data line disconnected is again fluctuating from 0858mA to 0325mA. Yet yesterday the draw was 0008mA. I will disconnect my new Alternator to see if this is now the new problem.

 

I removed the main cable from the Alternator and got a reading of 0008mA, so I figured I discovered the battery drain. I decided to put back the main cable on the alternator and expected to see the mA rise. NOPE! It went down to 0008mA after sleep mode. So I decided I would wiggle the cable from the Alternator to the battery but it stayed at 0008mA. I took off my current DMM connection, started the car and let it charge up the battery to 12.7VDC. Removed the NEG terminal and in series put my meter on amps and let the sleep mode kick in......0008 mA. It has been that way for the last 4 hours. I decided to unlock the doors and I get a reading of 0845mA and as the sleep mode kicks in it goes down to 0008mA. Everything seems to say there is NO PROBLEM. At the moment I will connect the battery up again and keep monitoring it (reading the battery voltage) through out the day. What is different ....There are sometimes when I hook in my DMM in series (get a spark) with the Neg side of the battery....,I hear what i believe is the fuel pump coming on.....other times i do not hear that sound. It seems to be related to where I put the keyfob. By putting the DMM in NEG series with the battery, is there ANY difference then putting on the battery? Have I forgot anything?

 

What the heck. So I removed the main cable to the alternator and the battery drain went down to 0008mA. I thought this WAS the new drain. So I decided to connect the main cable back up to the alternator and see what the reading was .....but I was amazed that it was down to 0008mA. Talk about not making any sense. Any idea as to why removing that main cable and putting it back on results in such strange results?

 

FYI when I disconnected Sirius, I lost NAV, Radio, Media, My Car, Cam and the thumbwheel on the directional lever. Which included Average, Instantaneous, Avgerage speed, current speed in MPH. Question: Once I install the loop on the Sirius box will ANY of this return? The entire MY car menu is gone.

 

The MOST (fiber optic) network for the infotainment system is shown below in the green oval. If you disconnect any module (that your car is equipped with, there are several shown that are optional) you break the ring topology and none of them will communicate with each other.

 

Not having VIDA/DICE is a real bummer. The illustration you sent certainly points that out. So until I get that loop/brace to install on the Sirius module I do not know what the consequences will be. I will let you know what my outcome is.

 

For your information: on my 2013 XC60 B6324S4.......my sirius module is located under the rear center child seat. All that is needed to gain access to the module is to angle the seat 45 degrees forward. You now have enough room to get at the cables. The hardest part is squeezing the connector releases.

 

Installed the BRACE/LOOP on the SIRIUS module and as expected the entire Infotainment screen has returned. It is Very easy to install the Loop. I will monitor any voltage drain on the battery for the next 2 days as I am cautious to say the problem is solved.

 

Anyone know if the start stop button XC60 2013 is very slightly lit up at night with the engine off and in sleep mode?

 

I went out to the 2013 xc60 at night to see if any lights were draining my battery, Without getting into the car, occasionally my start stop button lights up and then goes dim then lights up again. It seems to be a random thing. I assume on the elec schematic for the 2013 xc60 page 74 or 10, one of the objects is that start stop switch?

 

There is a list of components, component illustrations/location and an index in the back of the book. 3/1 is the ignition switch. A new one may require a software download (using VIDA) to make it work. (The earlier cars did, not sure about a 2013)

 

Thanks hoonk, I had the right page (74). Not too sure how to tell where the stray signal is coming from / leaking. IAU, Relay 15 feed in the circuit? Within 4/56 is a relay (C1-C-5) on page 74 and page 256. Any thoughts? Are you able to determine which pin on 3/1 ignition would light up the stop start button? Then I can run down the leakage.